Looks very similar to the IO oneā¦letās hope it performs better!
Major heat sinking required Iād say, can you split the two pcbs and glue some heatsinking mass directly to the top and bottom components on the driver board?
Maybe you could even machine a nicely fitting heatsink/holder for the driver to keep it cool.
The two boards have been glued together and I was going to try and use that white stuff that comes with some drivers on top. OL has solved my problem about soldering the driver so this will be easy to do now. I dont intend to run this light on high without a breeze on it as I know it will fail without some sort of cooling. Fingers crossed. If all else fails I will have another five amp light.
OMG...I am in awe! Wonderful machining on the entire project. I really like how the emitter will be directly mounted to that massive copper HS. Just beautiful!
It has a different coil thing on it. Iām not sure if there are any other differences though. It wont be hard to change out if its not going to work correctly. It would only be flashlight pron if it had batteries in it.
Have you ever considered/attempted doing your own anodizing for custom flashlights?
Obviously they donāt need it to look awesome, but wondering about the possibility of doing this kind of thing at home.
That is a good looking light you made. And kudos for making such a big head from scratch. I wish I had access to a lathe and those big diameter aluminium at the same time. Unfortunately I dont. But then I dont know if I could pull it off like you can.
Thanks for sharing this with us. It sure is a looker!
The hot parts on that driver are on the top of the top board, so the inductor/choke(whatever) needs to be relocated. Either that or a flat plate that fits under the inductor and touches the top of the chip packages, then mounted to the pill around the edge.
What about a copper or aluminium slug the diameter of the top board/pill cavity with a hole through it for the inductor coil to sit in?
Would that work or would that interfere with itās function? The inductor being closely surrounded by metal I mean.
Maybe. But it's a lot easier to affix a flat surface (top of the driver with the inductor relocated) to another flat surface (somewhere in the pill) than to machine a step for the edge of a plate to sit on and still clear the inductor. If the driver weren't already glued to the contact board it'd be easy to move the inductor, the thru-holes are clear on the opposite side. And it doesn't take up any more space in total, the inductor just goes between the two boards instead of on top.
I have just received notification that the 32650 batteries on order for this light have been returned to FT. Looks like this will be running 26650ās for awhile.
Holy great gobs of Texas cow patties!!!! That is one beautiful light!!!! You need a small horse to carry it around!!! If the sun fails to come up we know who has a fix!!
I think it needs some spikes in the head. Drill and tap holes, screw in track shoe or golf shoe spikes Make the Neanderthal Ancestors proud! And itāll skewer meat to make cooking easier when you feel like using high beam!