The Starfish Z3 is a neat little host.
It takes a 25mm driver and uses a 25mm proprietary MCPCB.
They usually come with the mcpcb, but this one did not. Luckily I had an extra on hand.
I didn’t get any pictures of the tail end, but if you plan on pulling high amps, you need to figure out a bypass. I melted the spring on my first X3. These drivers can pull 50+ amps with the right setup.
I’ll get pictures soon of the bypass on this one.
What I did was used a section of 18ga wire, stripped about 15mm off, ran it through the inside of the spring and to the outside at the bottom, between the last coil.
Crossed it across the bottom and soldered it in place on both sides. Then did the standard bypass solder blob at the top.
That way when the spring retaining ring is tightened, it smashes the wire bypass against the bottom of the tail cap.
I was just gonna do a double spring. But since I don’t have any on hand and I don’t want to keep scavenging them from functional switches I’ll resort to the same technique.
I had the light tailstanding on turbo and it went dark. Picked it up and felt the battery rattling inside
.