It would certainly have more throw with a smaller emitter.
The same rules always apply.
The smaller the emitter relative to the reflector size, the more it will throw.
So an XP-E2 in a Convoy S2 will have a significantly tighter hotspot and throw further than a XM-L2 in a Convoy S2.
I modded my 6 year old quark AA with the same emitter from ME. I am not sure what the drive current is, but tailcap current is a very modest 890ma from either an efest IMR purple or generic 14500. A couple members above mention the beam color of this LED and I noticed that too. The center hot spot is more pale and it transitions to a yellow-ish flood. I used a piece of frosted scotch tape on the glass and the beam diffuses into a nice creamy-slightly yellow wall of light. Its not red-orange enough for me to call it high noon sunlight. I am happy with the result though. I don’t think its all that big of a deal beyond white wall hunting. I would agree with the comment above though that the G3 performs better with floody, diffused optical designs.
So I am not driving it nearly as hard as your light will. Depending on how your driver modes play out, the 100% turbo could be reserved as a shorter burst only kind of thing.
One thing I have noticed is all my lights that use XP-L “5K” tints as well as the XP-G3 quark AA mentioned have a fair amount of yellow compared to my XM-L2 5K tint lights, which seem to be decidedly more pale. My most extreme is a manker E11 XP-L which has a honey mustard, almost beige color tint.
Honestly, I probably won’t run this light at 100% all that much, my original plan was to use the gruppydrv firmware and use the group 17: ML - 5% - 15% - 50% - 100% | Memory. I’m guessing the lower output modes will be used much more often.
That being said, would I be better off still with the XP-L2? I don’t need a ton of throw, but I don’t want it to wash out after 10 yards either.
From what Jerommel said earlier, the XP-G3 will theoretically have better throw because of the smaller emitter. Will the throw actually be noticeable between the two? Or only if I put a TIR optics in it? Like I said originally, this is intended to be an EDC light, so as much of a “all purpose” light as possible. Bright enough to really throw some light if needed, but also practical enough that I don’t want/need it to be seen from space.
Depending on the input here, I’ll see if I can change my order from ME before it ships to swap the XP-G3 for the XP-L2. From what I read on their site, they won’t be doing any shipping from Dec 18-Dec 28.
I really appreciate all the input thus far, I have already learned a lot.
The XPL2 hasn't really hit the market good. RMM doesn't have any listed yet.
I think you'd like an XPL HI better than the xpg3. it'll be about the same brightness and it'll throw better than the domed g3. I myself would add the smo s2 reflector for an even better spot.
If you want to try an tir optic get the S2+ host. it uses a shorter floodier reflector that's basically the same size as the tir.
Also add an clear 16mm XP spacer/gasket and some thermal compound/arctic silver, if you don't already have some.
The thing with TIR optics is that there are many many options available.
Ranging from 5° to 120° and with or without spill.
I always get lost when browsing for TIRs…
Sometimes i just buy some and sometimes i like what i bought.
I prefer 30° or more usually, and i love how the good ones overlay the light from the parabola with the light from the centre, so that you get a homogeneous tint.
With a reflector, and especially with XP-G3 you have tint shift a.k.a. rainbow effect.
Orange peel refl. surface improves this somewhat, and / or add a blur filter like DC-Fix behind the lens.
I just put a Nichia 219C (4000K >90CRI) in my ‘Jetbeam Jet I MK’ for example, and it has a smooth little reflector which i could not adjust.
Like with the original XP-G2 it had, there was considerable tint shifting in the output.
Often with small reflectors it produces a warm white centre of the beam spot, with a cooler white ring around it.
So it put a piece of matte sheet (salvaged from an old laptop LCD screen which had 2 kinds of this in it) in it to solve (dissolve rather) this.
It’s more floody now, but it’s much better.
I have 4x XP-G3 in my Astrolux S41S, which has clear / smooth (no pebbled surface) 25mm quad TIR optics.
For that one i used the other, less blurry sheet (from that LCD screen) which also is much better now.
That thing is crazy bright by the way. 
After doing some additional research and from some other responses from others on this post, I think I may switch the emitter from the XP-G3 to the XM-L HI. It’s the same size as the XP-G3 (better throw) but is designed for max output of 3A instead of 2, so I won’t be hot rodding the emitter at 3A like I would be with the XP-G3.
Also, I think I’ll stick with the OP reflector as it doesn’t seem to reduce the throw much and cleans up the beam nicely
The XP-L HI is a domeless XP-L, has the same phosphor size as a XM-L2 but on a 3535 footprint.
The HI throws better because it has no dome that magnifies the phosphor size.
it also has less tint shift of itself, which is pleasant.
OK last question… for a newbie like me, should I play the safe bet and get protected cell batteries, or since the qlite has the shut-off protection built in, it’s not necessary to get protected cells?
I have a couple of S2’s set up like you are talking about in the OP ‘Maatman2012’, except for the exceptions listed below….
- XP-L HI
- Smooth reflector _ ($2.35 at MTN Electronics)
- Battery _ (I just use whatever 18650 is handy at the moment usually…
… )
I think you will like the XP-L HI (I read in a post above you had decided to change to it) & I use mode #17 on mine also. 
It makes a nice light…. :+1:
I don’t have any 18650 batteries laying around batteries laying around, so either way I’ll have to order some. Just wondering if I will need the protected cells even with just wondering if I will need the protective cells even with the driver having the low battery auto shut-off
You’ll get a bunch of different answers on the “Protected Cell debate”. When I first started with LiIon’s all I bought was “protected” out of fear of “blowing myself up”.
Now I pretty much just get unprotected after learning & understanding a bit more.
In other words… just get what you are comfortable with. It is not going to make much difference (in this light). Just treat them right and respect them…. all should be well.
EDIT: Unprotected should be just fine.
At this point, I’ll have to defer to others, as I don’t usually use “S2+” and “throw” in the same sentence. It’s a nice floody smooth beam, great for close- to intermediate distances. Even across the room, at full 2.8A, the beam’s so spread out that I wouldn’t use it but for general illumination (ie not for chasing mosquitoes around the room for killin’).
“The right tool for the job.” I use the S2+ for a floody beam, my ’502 for something throwier (across the room to across the yard), my C8 for reaching out farther, and my L2 for even longer-distance reaching out. To me, there’s no such thing as a one-size-fits-all light.
Ah, I was just thinking about that, and was hoping someone’d bring it up. The XP-L HI is downright beautiful in a C8…
I’ve seen my S2+ cut off as the cell was nosediving, so I’m okay with using one of my 30Qs in it. Anything that’s iffy, I prefer protected panny-Bs.
Eg, for low-stress environments, I have a bunch of drivers with just N 7135s and a diode, no µC at all (thus no LVP). They’re supposed to cut off with too-low battery voltage (by just underpowering the 7135s that they shut off on their own), but that’s not guaranteed. Kinda like “My car dies when I get down to about a quarter-tank of gas, so I don’t have to worry about running the tank dry”. It might be so, but it’s not by design.
+1 … Yes it is. :+1:
He has the S2. Not S2+.
In my experience the SMO reflector of the S2, S5, S6 and S8 is one of the throwiest 20mm reflectors I've seen. It's nearly as good as an P60 with the same setup imo
Thanks for the insight RotorHead64. I’m excited to see how this build turns out. I’ll try to post some pictures as I go
Also an important question os the light color you want
Many want a neutral tint from 4500-5000K
My personal choice is the same
I give mod, gift or sell my old cold blue lights
I tried one time 3000 and 4000K but they are to warm for me
Meh, the LED doesn’t do much under 3 Volts (on a linear driver) so you’ll know when to charge the battery or replace it with a fresh one.
I totally agree, S2 or any of the ones you mentioned; with a smooth reflector…. makes a nice light. :+1: