great info
W1 (Osram CSLNM1.TG): 900lm, Lux : 160Kcd (160,000cd)
W2 (Osram CSLPM1.TG): 1300lm, Lux: 160Kcd (160,000cd)
people tend to think more lumens is better… but being spread over a wider beam, I dont think it is an advantage. The extra lumens just mean faster battery drain, to me…
For a thrower, I would choose the W1, and the videos Im seeing is that it throws much better than I would have thought, even behind a Carclo quad optic. And I like that it uses less power, hence more efficient.
The Color Temperature mixing feature is creating some really interesting pairings… notably sw45k and W1 on separate channels, that can be either switched or mixed.
Agreed. I think they have different merits for different users. For me, W1 is my choice for the reasons you outlined. I also wanted it to look as much like a lightsaber as possible, so my DM11 is coming with a W1.
I agree, about the premise of a thrower being more about concentration of output rather than spread. There’s also a W2.1 that’s supposed to be more like a W1 in terms of beam profile, while pumping out more lumens.
A bit off-topic, but as far as throwers go… I’ve been really happy with a KR1 W1 in 18350 form. It throws well enough for most purposes (~660m), and it’s small enough to carry around in my purse without noticing it’s there until I need it. I just keep it locked so it won’t turn on by accident.
Otherwise, I mostly use a KR4 or D4, since they’re great for short-range purposes. At some point, I should get myself a KR4 which ramps from XP-L HI 1A to 8A (6500K to 2800K). Or maybe from sw45k to sw27. Either one would be fantastic.
I just don’t often get lights for myself. I typically have a ton of dev lights instead, which use whatever hardware config was convenient to send and suitable for testing. And for tint-ramping, I have a D4S, which works well for testing but is a bit too large to EDC.
I have a 2700/4500 Nichia 219B. It’s great. Had some odd bugs where things froze or got stuck so I’ve had to do factory reset a few too many times. But it’s very interesting and I’m considering getting an impractically heavy ti one. Maybe 2000-5000 e21? Always wanted to try that warm tint
Froze or got stuck? That doesn’t sound good. Got any more details about what happened? Or a flashing kit to make sure it has current firmware?
At a guess, I’d suggest cleaning the electrical contacts on the tube, driver, and tailcap. A dirty ground connection has been known to cause enough noise to lock up the MCU once in a while. Otherwise, the only time I’ve seen it freeze or get stuck was when the firmware was corrupt, and it was easily fixed by flashing a good copy.
Hard to describe. I was playing around with initial ramp set up etc. Memory. It would get stuck and only turn on at a high level and not ramp. It would not ramp at all. Switching to step mode changes it. I reset the levels and it still did not work. The other issue was it would change to auto tint ramping even when I tried to use a fixed tint. Odd.
I can’t seem to adjust the jump start setting on my unit. There is a bright flash when the light starts in moonlight. I tried tweaking the jump start all the way down to level 1 through the advanced config menu but it’s still got the bright flash on startup.
Is yours a 2 channel light? In my two samples, the first option in the 9H menu is channel switching style, then the second option is jump start. Perhaps you’ve been using the first option and changing your channel switching style by accident?
What do you think of the tint in the middle of the CCT ramp range?
With the 4500K already having a reputation for rosiness, and with mixing of different color temperatures tending to result in even lower DUV, a part of me wonders if this combo gets too rosy, to say nothing of more extreme mixes like 2000K-4500K.
I’ve got just two things holding me back from ordering a D4v2 Ti with ramping:
This is the first time I’ve heard of the FW4X… so I have no idea. Version check should make it identify which build it uses though, which then answers which firmware to flash, as described here.
I get a moon pre-flash on DM11 B35 even without jump-start. I haven’t encountered the issue on other lights though. What hardware and firmware are you using?
Yes, it’s a tint ramping D4v2. I’m adjusting the second option in the 9H menu. Even set to a value of 1, I’m still getting a flash on startup at moonlight level.
It’s a new tint ramping D4v2 with 219b on both channels. I’m using the firmware build it came with which is 2021-11-03 (0135). I’ve tried a factory reset but got the same results. I have not tried reflashing it.
I noticed that even after configuring the ramp floor to 1/150 it seems to be quite a bit brighter than all of my other Noctigon/Emisars with regulated drivers at level 1/150, even when ramped fully to one channel so only two LEDs are illuminated. I’m no expert but I’m thinking that the lowest floor level is high enough that it doesn’t need jump start so even after configuring jump start to level 1, I’m still getting the flash.
The closest I have is a D4S v2 with XP-L HI 1A and 8A. I’ll see if I can reproduce the issue here…
Rather than a preflash though, on mine it lags a bit while starting up moon. And the two channels lag at different speeds, so no single jump-start value gets it quite right.
My DM11 prototype might end up being a better test host, since it has a pre-flash. Hopefully at least it’ll let me verify whether the issue is hardware or software.
Actually, in this example, the SW45K already has such a low DUV (–0.0120) that the mix with the more neutral SW30 raises the DUV at 3700K (–0.0080) compared to the SW45K, although it still lowers it with respect to the SW30.
I hadn’t thought correctly about the geometry of the arc of the BBL versus the chord-line that the two emitters interpolate along until you showed those measurements. Your data really made it click.
I think I’m pretty comfortable with trying any of the options I was considering now. That doesn’t equal a decision which I will like the most, but at least makes me confident I won’t be unhappy with any of them.
blending LEDs seems to work extremely well in the D4v2 quads Ive been seeing posted on reddit… even a combo of W1 and SW45K produces an excellent blended beam that reaches forward with the cool white Low CRI W1, while producing a wider High CRI near beam from the SW45K
from what Im seeing, there is no wrong combination, even when blending low CRI w High CRI, and with completely different beam shapes.
afaict, the W1 has no problem projecting forward, even behind a quad Carclo optic.
