New Emisar Tint-Ramping flashlights available!

LED Flashlights – General Info 18650 Flashlights
61

Yeah, it’s a pretty handy quirk of tint mixes. BBL is curved, but tint mixes go along a straight line. So it almost always looks better than a single non-blended CCT.

For example, here’s the range of a tint-ramping 2700K-to-5000K light when both LEDs are directly on the blackbody line:

62

Here are some measurements I took with my tint ramping D4v2 with sw27 and sw45.

63

Thank You!
the 3500K blend of those two LEDs has even lower DUV than the sources

what are your thoughts on the Colot Temperature Ramping feature
useful?
fun?

64

Received my tint-ramping D4V2 today. Mine is SST-20 in 2700K and 6500K.

I like it!!! :sunglasses:

  • Stellar max output
  • The range for tint ramping is excellent.
  • I like how I can double-click to go to max at whatever tint setting I’m at, and then double-click again to run all 4 LEDs at max.
  • Very nice how the aluminum D4V2 is now available with lit button.

Comparison of UI to my other tint-shifting lights:

  • The UI is much better than the Lumintop FW4X.
  • The tint ramping control of 3H in Anduril2 is harder to use to use than the Sofirn IF25, which only requires 2H for the same effect. The Sofirn light has a better UI for tint ramping, even though the light itself is less powerful.

For those who like how mixing tint lowers the DUV:

  • You can achieve the same effect in any triple or quad flashlight. Simply reflow LEDs of different tints onto the same star. You don’t actually need a tint-ramping light to achieve the effect.
65

Incidentally, for those who don’t like the Emisar D4’s clip, FW3A clips usually fit on them. To install an FW3A clip onto a D4V2:

  • Remove the tailcap o-ring from the body tube.
  • Insert the FW3A clip. It may be tight and you may need to screw the clip on the through the threads.
  • Reinstall the o-ring on top of the clip.
  • Due to the extra thickness of the clip, the tailcap will no longer make contact with the tube. To fix, insert something conductive, bent into a c-shaped ring at the back of the tailcap. I use sheet copper cut into shape with large scissors. But really anything conductive will work: a copper washer, a paperclip bent into a ring, some copper solder braid, etc.
66

<3

It’s reassuring to see that the theoretical model lines up perfectly with actual measurements. :beer:

Do you think it would be a good idea to use 2H for tint instead of 2H for ramp-down? It would make tint easier to change, at the expense of making brightness a bit less convenient.

67

I do think 2H is a better choice for tint-ramping.

  • 2 separate controls for ramping seems unnecessary. When I want it brighter, I just use 1H. If I want it dimmer, I just pres 1H again. Or I turn off the light then press 1H to ramp up from moonlight. I never actually use 2H to ramp down.
  • Tint ramping is quite handy in lights that have it, but it needs to be easily accessible. 3H is a bit too complex for regular use in my opinion. It’s easy to misclick and end up with something else happening than the desired tint ramping.
  • That said, other people might have a different opinion. Perhaps others actually use the 2H shortcut for ramping down brightness.
68

Yes, no need for 2 separate controls. I use 2H periodically such as when I’m on a given level of brightness and want to go down, 2H accomplishes that. Otherwise you do 1H to go up a little then 1H to go down to the level you want… taking longer.

69

I use it. That’s why I added it. :wink:

70

I just got my KR4 channel switching / tint ramping light. Kr4 is my favorite EDC, and this light is awesome. I really bought it for channel switching, but the ramping feature may be cool, too. Though, I feel like a Newbie again, trying to figure this out.

I have questions :( -

-Looks like tint ramping does the cct change in a series of small "micro steps" instead of "smooth"? Is this normal?

-When on channel switching mode, 2C "turbo" runs both sets of LED's at once? can this be "turned off"? (with two similar sets of LED;s this is nice, but with a Nichia and Osram mix for example, i dont want this to happen, and im going to reflow mine to 219b/W2)

I have other questions, but i need to use with this light more first. Thanks for starting this thread. if my questions should be asked somewhere else, i apologize!

-Artie

71

the forum/website is not allowing me to quote right now, but regarding the end of post #66 by TK -

I use 2H for ramp down all of the time. As much as i use 1H tbh. So, for me it would be a solid No vote for 2H to control ramp, therefore making Ramp Down a different control. Just wanted to throw my 2 cents in is all.

Thank you! for everything you've done to make these new, fantastic lights, possible.

72

I always use 2H to decrease brightness and would not want this feature to disappear since I appreciate being able to decrease brightness without having to increase it first (especially while using stepped brightness mode instead of ramping).

There are more non-tinting lights than lights with tinting and adjusting the brightness is done more often than adjusting the tint.

73

Tint ramping uses 256 steps. However, there are not 256 units of brightness to allocate, so the effective resolution is different depending on how bright the light is at that moment.

For example, at the very lowest brightness, just 1 unit, it can split that between the two sets of LEDs as 1:0 or 0:1. At 2 brightness units, it can be 2:0, 1:1, or 0:2. And at 3 units of brightness, it can be 3:0, 2:1, 1:2, or 0:3.

The number of tint steps is: brightness + 1

So in a bright mode, let’s say you’re at PWM level 200 out of 255, there would be 201 different tint steps available.

It just translates that 0-255 “tint” value into hardware control parameters automatically. So if you have the tint set to 50% and the brightness to 10%, it would convert that to 5+5 on the two sets of LEDs. This ends up with pretty coarse resolution toward the bottom of the ramp though.

At the bottom of the ramp, if you had red and blue LEDs, the tint steps between would look something like this:

I hope that makes sense.


As for turbo turning on both sets of LEDs… yes, there is a way to turn that off. Set the ceiling level to 100% power (this is the default), and change the turbo mode to “no turbo”. That way, it’ll never go above the ceiling. Or change the turbo mode to “Anduril 2 style”, which only goes above the ceiling if you ramp up to it first and then try to activate turbo.

The color model it uses is a lot like a house. Go too far above the ceiling, and it hits the roof. Then to go any higher, it must slide sideways toward the peak. When it jumps to full power turbo on both channels, I call that “200” power. But you can make it stop at 100 instead.

The instructions for setting the turbo style are in the text manual. Just look for “turbo style”. It’s on the “Ramp 10H” menu, option 4. The values it accepts are 0 for “no turbo”, 1 for “Anduril 1 style”, or 2 for “Anduril 2 style”.

So… make sure you’re in advanced mode, turn the light on, do 10H, let go after the 4th blink, and then just wait for it to fall out of the menu. That should put it in “no turbo” mode.

74

I use 2H to ramp down, but I would not need to if

From On, 1H Ramp (up, with reversing),
if reversing did not time out and stop working

I would like reversing to work consistently, no timeout, like this:
From On, 1H ramps up, 1H again ramps down, 1H again ramps up

that is how the Nitcore D10 accomplishes ramping in both directions

the way it is now, I sometimes double tap too soon to reverse, and get ceiling instead… other times Im too slow, and the light ramps up, and Up again, when Im trying to go down

the comand for revesing is inconsistent atm… because it has a short time limit

75

Awesome! thank you so much for this amount of info! the "less smooth" tint ramp at lower levels totally makes sense when explained like that, thank you! i was at a low level.

And the Turbo style menu, huge help! i had no idea! much appreciated. i will mess around with the different options now. thanks again!

76

This is exactly how it works at the moment. Every time you release the button the direction is reversed. And after a delay it is reset to go up the next time.

But then it’s not 1H & 1H but 2C. To ramp you have to hold the button long enough, on every ramping light I know. Otherwise it’s either 1C to switch it off or 2C for turbo or 2H (!) to ramp down.

The current behavior is very consistent.

77

Sounds like enough people use 2H to rampdown, the UI should be left as-is. :sunglasses:

I just need to practice 3H more. :stuck_out_tongue:

78

Im not sure you understood me.

Im asking to eliminate the reset until the light is turned OFF

imo there should be no reset while ON.

hope that makes sense. If you have any experience with the Nitecore D10, that is the ramping direction reversing system Im suggesting.

79

Yes, it makes total sense. That's how Narsil worked, and I changed it to eliminate the need to remember which way the ramp was pointed. I was always having to ramp the wrong way and turn around, and I didn't like that.

If you'd like to restore that behavior in Anduril, open up ramp-mode.c and look for this part:

    else if (event == EV_tick) {
        // un-reverse after 1 second
        if (arg == AUTO_REVERSE_TIME) ramp_direction = 1;

Comment out that last line, and it won't reset the ramp direction any more. It'll remember as long as the battery is connected.

Or you could set AUTO_REVERSE_TIME to a different value in a config file, like config-default.h. The default is about a second (or 0.66s in more recent versions)... but it can be as high as ~17 minutes. That way, it would behave how you want during a session, but you wouldn't have to remember anything from more than a few minutes ago.

I do the same thing with brightness memory. I configure my lights to use a memory timer of 10 minutes, so it'll do last-ramped during a session, and then reset to my favorite default between sessions. No more nasty surprises when I pick up a light and click once.

80

Excellent! Good to know this is possible. Thanks, TK! I do see how having no timeout would be another approach and certainly works if someone is accustomed to it. I’m comfortable with 2H for down, 1H for up. Makes logical sense.