New member, need help from modders to add LEDs to a welding hood

[Swollenblade]

Well hello everyone for starters, I am a long time reader, first time poster. I have an account at another light forum that shall not be named, I made a thread there once like 2 years ago, I wanted to swap my motorcycle bulbs for LEDs, a mod locked my thread, told me that swapping bulbs for led’s is illegal and therefore I could not speak about it. I keep hearing stories about how this other light forum is run by nazi mods so f* that place, i’m never going back.

So now that I got that out of the way, in this thread I am trying to add LED’s to my welding hood so that I can see in dark places. I considered mounting a nitecore HC50 or similar headlamp on the outside of the hood but all of these solutions start at $45 or more, and I figured I could integrate a couple of my own LED’s, some optics, a buck driver, and 18650 battery for cheaper.

My plan is to mount two XP-G3 or Nichia 219b leds on the outside of my hood with 90 degree optic, i’m not sure what driver or wiring method I would need, I would like to add a PWM controller to have a type of infinitely variable brightness, and I would try to run it off of a single eagletac 3,500mah 18650 battery.

I plan to buy led’s on 16mm round copper base, and use thermal adhesive to mount them on an aluminum strap mounted on the inside of the hood. The wiring, soldering, and assembly, I think I have under control, what I need help with is choosing a driver, choosing a pwm controller, and figuring out if I will be wiring in series or parallel.

My pipeliner hood and rough idea where LED’s and controller will be.

the optics from fleabay

and a couple of drivers that I don’t know if I can use, also from fleabay

I’m not sure if I am posting in the correct area, so mods please move if this thread if it is in the wrong location, and thanks to everyone that helps in advance.

[mrheosuper]

Welcome to BLF
I guess you dont need many lumen, around 500 lumens, i guess
There is 7135*4 driver on kaidomain, and MCPCB DTP led board too

You can vhange mode by switch instead of Knob

[mrheosuper]

We, flashohlics, dont like pwm, if you use nichia led, i assume you will prefer constant current driver more than pwm one(especiall low pwm frequency driver)

[The_Miller]

Welcome to BLF
Sounds like a cool useful project!

[Swollenblade]

thanks for the welcomes guys. I like nichia for high cri, but I also like xp-g3 for the lumen per watt efficiency and when your looking at work thru a welding hood there is no such thing as too bright. I think two nichia will easily achieve 600lm brightness, and two xp-g3 can probably get me to 800-1000lm.

So no PWM ok, simple on/off is fine with me, or 3/5 modes is good too.

I think max amperage for nichia 219b and xp-g3 is 2amps, so my driver would have to be 2amp max, and I could wire the led’s in parallel with an on/off switch. And my modes or lack there of depend on the driver.

here is a simple diagram that I guess would be my solution?

[vwpieces]

Welcome to BLF, cool project.

I recently ordered a couple of these PWM Dimmers but have not received them or integrated into my project yet.
Mini DC 5A Motor PWM Speed Controller 3V-35V Speed Control Switch LED Dimmer Top

Also these stars have current regulation built in with a 7135 chip @ 350mAh. For a single 1W LED bead. There is also a 2X 7135 star available for a 3W LED.
Universal Star Base Plates with 350mA AMC7135 Driver (3-Pack)
2* AMC7135 LED Driver Circuit Board

Just a thought as the boards and this type of LED bead are cheap. WW are pretty nice.

These headlights can be had for about $8-10. With a 2 cell pack you can mount on the back strap of the helmet. Mount to the helmet or use for parts on your build.
LED Headlamp,3 Cree XM-L T6 5000lm Super Bright LED Headlamp $7.69

[Lightbringer]

@Swollenblade

Well hello everyone for starters, I am a long time reader, first time poster. I have an account at another light forum that shall not be named, I made a thread there once like 2 years ago, I wanted to swap my motorcycle bulbs for LEDs, a mod locked my thread, told me that swapping bulbs for led’s is illegal and therefore I could not speak about it. I keep hearing stories about how this other light forum is run by nazi mods so f* that place, i’m never going back.

Hmm, so tell us how you really feel…

@Swollenblade

So now that I got that out of the way, in this thread I am trying to add LED’s to my welding hood so that I can see in dark places. I considered mounting a nitecore HC50 or similar headlamp on the outside of the hood but all of these solutions start at $45 or more, and I figured I could integrate a couple of my own LED’s, some optics, a buck driver, and 18650 battery for cheaper.

Howbout 9bux?

http://www.gearbest.com/headlights/pp_251155.html

Got like 4 of ’em myself. Even if junk, I’d have spares, right? Using one every day, still going strong.

Watch the demo video, looove the IR on/off.

[Rufusbduck]

The only reason for a pwm controller is to have multiple modes. Even two modes, low,high, can be done with a two channel driver and still have no pwm. If you’re ok with set modes of 750mA and 2.2A(or any multiple of 7135 chips) then one of the several drivers developed here can do this very easily(See Del, Texas ace, or pilotdog’s threads).Or you can use an on1-on2-off switch to control the chips directly with no mcu. The mcu is nice in that it will warn you when it’s time to swap cells. Also, there are several cells that have much higher capacity(up to 3500mAhr) in the 18650 size or you can go with 26650, 32650, or double up on cells but I’m guessing 1 cell and spares is the best lightweight option.

[Barkuti]

Seriously, you're not space constrained, do yourself a favour and avoid those sub-par solutions: PWM, 7135s and all that “crap”.

For 1S power source, best solution is to go with a boost driver handling the emitters in series: H2-C, H1-A, FX35 (Kaidomain).

If you'd like to have infinitely variable brightness adjustment, you could grab an XL4005/XL4015 CC/CV buck supply module to drive the leds and a BMS for 3 cells in series. Hack the CC trimpot with a potentiometer to regulate the current or change the part attaching a resistor in series to limit the current (if you will, of course). Another nice option: an LD-29S (Kaidomain).

If properly cooled, even 3A is no problem for the leds.

Cheers ^:)

[mrheosuper]

@Swollenblade

thanks for the welcomes guys. I like nichia for high cri, but I also like xp-g3 for the lumen per watt efficiency and when your looking at work thru a welding hood there is no such thing as too bright. I think two nichia will easily achieve 600lm brightness, and two xp-g3 can probably get me to 800-1000lm.

So no PWM ok, simple on/off is fine with me, or 3/5 modes is good too.

I think max amperage for nichia 219b and xp-g3 is 2amps, so my driver would have to be 2amp max, and I could wire the led’s in parallel with an on/off switch. And my modes or lack there of depend on the driver.

here is a simple diagram that I guess would be my solution?

2 led in seri and 1 single lli-ion wont work(unless your driver is boost one)
i would recommend this combo
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S020064.New-KDLIGHT-7135-V4-17mm-6-x-AMC7135-1-Cell-16-Groups-Flashlight-Driver-Board-1pc
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S025832.Nichia-NVSW219BT-V1-5700K-CRI92-LED-Emitter-with-KDLIGHT-XP-16-16mm-x-1_5mm-DTP-Copper-MCPCB
you need to wire led in parallel, it will work just fine
if you want more light, use AMC7135*8 driver

[Rufusbduck]

simple and reliable isn’t sub par and pwm isnt necessary for 1,2, or even 3 modes now.

[Beachlogger]

I think you may want to incorporate some kind of disposable cover over your lights, maybe even a filter cover.

[Swollenblade]

@Lightbringer

Howbout 9bux?

http://www.gearbest.com/headlights/pp_251155.html

Got like 4 of ’em myself. Even if junk, I’d have spares, right? Using one every day, still going strong.

Watch the demo video, looove the IR on/off.

How I really feel? lol I just joined here I don’t want to get banned xD

Wow i’m kicking myself for not finding that headlamp at gear best, I searched them, and I fancy myself a good searcher. I actually already started ordering parts for my build, I got (4) XP-G3 90+ CRI 5000k from mouser.com. I ordered battery holders, paddle switch, optics, and arctic silver thermal adhesive. I still need copper sink pads, and a few odds and ends.

I’m going to order that headlamp you linked, the IR mode looks to be perfect for my needs since my hands are usually always gloved and they don’t lend themselves well to pressing small buttons. I have about 6 welding hoods so the headlamp will go on a different hood. Thanks for your post very helpful!

[Swollenblade]

@Rufusbduck

The only reason for a pwm controller is to have multiple modes. Even two modes, low,high, can be done with a two channel driver and still have no pwm. If you’re ok with set modes of 750mA and 2.2A(or any multiple of 7135 chips) then one of the several drivers developed here can do this very easily(See Del, Texas ace, or pilotdog’s threads).Or you can use an on1-on2-off switch to control the chips directly with no mcu. The mcu is nice in that it will warn you when it’s time to swap cells. Also, there are several cells that have much higher capacity(up to 3500mAhr) in the 18650 size or you can go with 26650, 32650, or double up on cells but I’m guessing 1 cell and spares is the best lightweight option.

I have a couple of eagletac 3500mAhr cells that I am not using, so these will go to my project. Your right about the lightweight option, since this hood is on my head for half of the day it can get very fatiguing, I try my best to keep all of my hoods as light as possible. Even considered buying a carbon fiber hood, however I am still in welding school, maybe when I graduate.

@Barkuti

Seriously, you’re not space constrained, do yourself a favour and avoid those sub-par solutions: PWM, 7135s and all that “crap”.

For 1S power source, best solution is to go with a boost driver handling the emitters in series: H2-C, H1-A, FX35 (Kaidomain).

If you’d like to have infinitely variable brightness adjustment, you could grab an XL4005/XL4015 CC/CV buck supply module to drive the leds and a BMS for 3 cells in series. Hack the CC trimpot with a potentiometer to regulate the current or change the part attaching a resistor in series to limit the current (if you will, of course). Another nice option: an LD-29S (Kaidomain).

If properly cooled, even 3A is no problem for the leds.

Cheers :partying_face:

I think your right, I will need a boost driver. I like the H2-C and H1-A you linked because they don’t have strobe or SOS modes which I do not need, the outputs on those drivers are 1500mah and 3000mah I guess that would be enough with 2 LEDs. I would also need to find a circular/round, shallow button, to install into my hood and let me switch modes.

@mrheosuper

2 led in seri and 1 single lli-ion wont work(unless your driver is boost one)
i would recommend this combo
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S020064.New-KDLIGHT-7135-V4-17mm-6-x-AMC7135-1-Cell-16-Groups-Flashlight-Driver-Board-1pc
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S025832.Nichia-NVSW219BT-V1-5700K-CRI92-LED-Emitter-with-KDLIGHT-XP-16-16mm-x-1_5mm-DTP-Copper-MCPCB
you need to wire led in parallel, it will work just fine
if you want more light, use AMC7135*8 driver

Wow those led’s in your 2nd link are exactly what I need, and they save me from having to flow the led’s onto a pcb myself. I wish I would have seen this sooner but I got anxious and started ordering lol. I think I’m going to order those LEDs you linked anyways, I’ll use my XP-G3’s for something else. I also like that driver you posted, I think that may be my winner so long as I can find a circular switch that will fit in a drilled hole in my hood, thanks.

@Beachlogger

I think you may want to incorporate some kind of disposable cover over your lights, maybe even a filter cover.

Beachlogger, you are 100% correct. The front of my hood gets sprayed with molten steel on the regular, it can eat through and melt plastic very quickly, and it sticks to glass lenses and leaves gouges and chips in the glass when removed. My solution for this is to use Sta-Kleer brand welding lenses, they are made of a special plastic that lets molten steel bead and roll off the surface. I have a bunch of these lenses both used and new, I planned to just cut them in a circle and place on top of the optic.

[Texlite]

If it were me I’d drill a hole below the lens just large enough to fit just the bezel of a light like the Nitecore HC90 below or similar, no need in trying to reinvent the wheel when you can get all the components, housing and charging module pre-baked. I’d look for one that has a glass bezel which could be replaced, order plenty of spares and call it a day. This one has the infinitely variable slider on top, which would be nice. The integrated charging would be the icing on the cake.

I’d also want to use an auto-darkening helmet so I could see what I was doing through the lens when not welding.

[Swollenblade]

@Rufusbduck

The only reason for a pwm controller is to have multiple modes. Even two modes, low,high, can be done with a two channel driver and still have no pwm. If you’re ok with set modes of 750mA and 2.2A(or any multiple of 7135 chips) then one of the several drivers developed here can do this very easily(See Del, Texas ace, or pilotdog’s threads).Or you can use an on1-on2-off switch to control the chips directly with no mcu. The mcu is nice in that it will warn you when it’s time to swap cells. Also, there are several cells that have much higher capacity(up to 3500mAhr) in the 18650 size or you can go with 26650, 32650, or double up on cells but I’m guessing 1 cell and spares is the best lightweight option.

I am looking for the threads you mentioned by del / Texas ace / pilotdog, I am having no luck, but it’s almost 4am and i’m kinda buzzed. Anyways I am very interested in the drivers developed here that you mentioned. I am ex-military and I buy American as much as possible, whenever possible. So I’m still in the market for a couple of drivers, could you point me in the right direction please? I would greatly appreciate it

@Texlite

If it were me I’d drill a hole below the lens just large enough to fit just the bezel of a light like the Nitecore HC90 below or similar, no need in trying to reinvent the wheel when you can get all the components, housing and charging module pre-baked. I’d look for one that has a glass bezel which could be replaced, order plenty of spares and call it a day. This one has the infinitely variable slider on top, which would be nice. The integrated charging would be the icing on the cake.

I’d also want to use an auto-darkening helmet so I could see what I was doing through the lens when not welding.

I love the nitecore lights, just not the price, I’m of the mindset that I could build my own LED circuit for cheaper than buying the headlamp (I actually already blew past that budget ssshhhhhh! lol). However I did buy the $9 headlamp that was linked earlier in this thread. I’m planning to put that headlamp on my favorite and most expensive autodark hood, my Lincoln Viking 3350. I plan to use the plastic frame with rubber o-ring mount that comes attached to the head band, just remove the headband and attach the frame to the top of my hood with velcro and slide the light in. I like the idea of mounting inside the hood with a hole for the light, but I don’t like the idea of drilling into my most expensive hood. if attached to the top I think it can avoid most splashes of liquid metal so long as I do not use it for overhead welding, and maybe I will put a lens on it or some sort of protection. I currently have 2 autodark hoods, and 4 fixed shade, I prefer the autodark for pipe welding and almost everything, but nothing beats the clarity of fixed shade glass.