For 3-5A applications there is really no major difference between HE2, HE4 and Samsung 25R.
At 5A+ 25R has greater voltage sag compared the LGs.
For 3A and below, LG 18650E1 (4.35v) is the best available. Panasonic 18650BD if you want 4.2v cells.
Thanks, I ordered 4 LG ICR18650HE4 to have on hand to start with.
As long as they’re button tops, any of those will work well. The HE2/HE4 and Efest 35A will be the top performers. 25A close on their heels with the BD and it’s ilk good compromise cells for more (longer) usability.
You still here? Taking BLF on the road? How’s the trip going?
Are the HE4s or 35As available in a button top version? Or are you guys putting a blob of solder on them?
The Efest Purple 35A for sure.
For The HE4 , i imagine they go along as the HE2, it means they have to be rewrapped by some manufacturer like what Acebeam did with the HE2
I got HE-4 button tops from RMM and already have a bunch of Efest 35A button tops as well as 25R’s.
A solder blob can work equally well, just be careful applying it. 
We’re back David, decided to just take a day trip to the coast. Logged some 730 miles yesterday with the help of the Texas Autobahn (85mph Toll road) 
Rained on us for 5 hours of high speed driving, the car will pretty effortlessly do 120, pretty sure the state police would not have liked me much for finding that out, but my temporary paper license plate was water logged and folded over so it was pretty much a “free ride” :bigsmile:
What? I was trying to help the Meteor BE a meteor! 
You should have thrown it out the window to test the anodizing. :evil: J)
I knew I was forgetting something! Twice the speed for twice the flashlight, right? Just had the windows tinted on the new car and couldn’t roll down the windows yet, might have been tough to open the door at 120…
What is the parasitic drain for the M43? Thank you.
Great question.. think it's the first I've seen asked about it in the thread but a very important one nonetheless.
I’m thinking that actually was addressed earlier and it’s extremely low. Like, a freshly charged set of cells would drain in a few years or something. But I could be getting that information mixed up with something else because my memory is atrocious.
I’ll speed read the thread and see if I can spot it anywhere.
I didn’t find anything on the power drain.
BUT, I got some readings on my light. Soldering in a short 18ga lead between the negative lead and mcpcb to use my clamp meter, I see 7.55A in Turbo. Taking a Vf reading I get 10.45V in Turbo. So there’s that 78.9 watts being utilized.
The 4 Efest 35A’s are rested, slightly used, so these figures would be higher with fresh off the charger cells.
Edit: Also worthy of mention that with the light off, the Voltage measures 4.1 at the mcpcb. What does that mean? I don’t know…
CPF forum member Giocomo just measured the parasitic drain at 21 microAmps. This is quite low.
What about the new sanyo NCR-BL? At 5A it almost match the HE2 (overall) but at lower levels it provides some more runtime.
That’s really bad advice! You should never mix different types of batteries in a light. One should always use batteries with the same chemistry, capacity, and charge level otherwise you run the risk of damaging the batteries and possibly the light.
I don’t know where does that idea come from, but lately I’m seeing lots of people recommending mixing different types of cell! 
mine arrived yesterday and im not quite sure how ui 3 works. first off, id like to say this is one bad A$$ light.
it truly is very small and the finish is exceptional. i got the dedomed version and it throws a big o hot spot.
the tint is very nice. its a crisp white, with no yellowing. although, i did expect more flood and spill, not none the less, its very bright.
so my question is, on ui 3, it soundsl like you can customize it or at least memorize how you want each click to be?
From off, i would just like one click to be high mode, and two fast clicks from there would be medium.
From off, two clicks to be moon mode, and two fast clicks to low.
so basically it a ui 1, but the roles are reversed. is this possible?
if not, is there any way to start in high mode with just a single click from off? thats all i need hahah
From #521
14 quick clicks + clamping calibrates the sensor. During calibration, temperature sensor temperature torch body must be leveled room temperature (25 ° C). The program allows the deviation of the temperature sensor from the typical value at ± 16 ° C. Successful calibration is accompanied by a double flash lamp and a green flash backlight button. If the temperature sensor readings are outside the allowed values - the rejection of the calibration will be accompanied by a single flash lamp and flash the red button illumination.
you have enabled a temperature sensor calibration mode.
the temperature of the flashlight should be 25 degrees.
the sensor temperature can differ by 16 degrees.
No more.
Then it will be possible calibration.
Lantern loves calibrated in Turbo, just remember that.
Best calibration occurs in the turbo mode.
Prolonged operation at low currents can upset the model due to the low quality of incoming information that will lead to strange behavior when trying to rapidly enable maximum power.
It meant no adequate response program to changing conditions.
Due to extremely low native resolution PWM is used in the M43 microcontroller (5 bits) density-pulse-width expansion periodically crawls in the audible range, and the lantern may occasionally ate much food on the high frequency
PWM sometimes in the audio range. Сan periodically weak squeak at a high frequency.
Repeated attempts are allowed it to include, but sooner or later begin to operate in the supervisor microcontroller hardware throwing program voltage of about 2,7V. Below this value, the battery discharge does not happen.
You can try to turn on the flashlight again.
but once the triggered supervisor in the microcontroller, perform a hard reset of the program. the voltage 2,7V. Below this value, the battery discharge does not happen.
The design of the lamp is designed for protected batteries, so to have to stretch the spring force, and fear strikes the back of the lamp, which is why the batteries their weight can spring back to its original state.
Flashlight uses protected batteries. For short battery will have to stretch the spring.
When you hit the back of the lamp, they can again be shortened.
Appearently the lamp is designed for batteries (read protected) that are not powerful enough for the lamp?
With any batteries flashlight will give the maximum SAFETY turbo mode. With a large internal resistance will be weaker the turbo.
The program in the lantern itself measures the internal resistance of the battery. In addition to all the other parameters.
Really bad idea to use anything but 4 like cells, same chemistry’s and same capacities are the best scenario.
Use of non matched batteries is pretty much a dangerous game akin to the old single round in a revolver, the potential for lethal reaction is much higher when using mismatched cells.
Buy 4 new cells, button tops. Use these exclusively in the Meteor. Use protected cells if in doubt, if you’re well versed with Li-ions and their charge/discharge characteristics then high discharge non-protected cells are the optimum.
DO NOT MIX CHEMISTRY! I would also advise to NOT MIX CAPACITY! And DO NOT MIX PROTECTED with NON-PROTECTED cells! Remember when you do these things that it’s not only yourself in jeopardy but also those around you and quite probably your home, which sometimes leads to the entire neighborhood. Be careful! Extreme current discharge is where the chemistry’s are at their most volatile!