candela/throw, in my experience are usually much more correct on paper than lumens. I’ve tested all the lights I have and their numers are almost always spot on.
The nice thing is that even budget equipment usually has little variance.
I use a DMM (MS8229) which has integrated luxmeter and it goes pretty well IMHO.
Regarding the light sphere……well… good luck with that…. :weary:
EDIT:
529 it’s the correct value … I guess 6 it’s just under the 9 in the numeric pad of the keyboard 
Thanks! One day I’ll get set-up correctly and do a proper review.
Nothing wrong, my typing mistake, 6 instead of 9.
Again, much appreciated. Had I had a numeric pad on this crappy Mac keyboard it would have occurred to me.
Is it so easy?
There’s 2 distinctly different measurements involved getting the output readings as compared to throw readings. In the case of measuring output, a lightbox is used to gather the light for the meter to read. In the case of throw, a meter is used at a specific distance to get the concentration of the hot spot in order to extrapolate throw.
For example, I might shine the light into my lightbox that has a .345 multiplier and see 10,000 on the meter. So this 10,000 gets mulitplied by .345 for a figure of 3450 lumens.
I then set up the meter at 5M for a lux measurement, and with a light such as this one will only see a meter reading of 2040, which then gets multiplied by 25 (distance squared) for a throw estimate of 51Kcd. This 51Kcd figure (51,000) is then multiplied by 4 (a derivative of the .25) and the square root is taken of that answer. 2040 * 25 = 51,000 * 4 = 204000 with the square root being 451.66359M.
If the same 10,000 were seen on the meter in a lux reading, it would mean a much different thing…. 10,000*25= 250Kcd for 1000M throw. I have yet to see such a high power light (3450 lumens) have a 250Kcd throw. The very essence of what it takes to make that high power also excludes it from having a tight beam. Just the same as the essence of what makes for a tight beam, procludes a light from having major lumens. We work with what is available to us, and there are no small die high output emitters at this time. Multiple small dies makes for a large surface area, which does not throw well in our lights at all as a general rule.
I will probably stand corrected, always am, but with my collection of lights this is my experience.
Edit: By the way, using the formula someone posted above My Meteor would only do 117M instead of the 452 I get through the proper channels.
A figure of 70Kcd was given, stating 526M throw according to the formula. The question was raised about 529M….
70,000 * 4 = 280,000
280,000’s square root is 529.1502622 or simply 529M. Guess my calculator must also be wrong?
I said it was my typing mistake of 6 instead of 9, but hey why read all the posts.
I posted the formula that is officially used by all manufacturers I didn't say anything about how to take candela measurements. That is a NEMA/ANSI standard.
For example apply the formula here based on this candela value and you will get the same throw value they specify.
I do read all the posts, what I didn’t do was clearly understand your transposition.
So, in conditions where all this information is given, why is anyone wondering about throw? It’s right there on the label.
I thought we were talking about the Noctigon Meteor M43, which comes in a box with the lumens output stated on the label.
My bad for keeping it relevant I guess. Carry on.
Thank you for the link. It looks like he used the older generic green Panasonic NCR18650B batts which are not hi-current batts. In any case, I appreciate the beamshots which show the differences between beam patterns of other high-power lights. He’s got quite a collection. Not to mention the rare XPL-DD version of the M43. Thank you for the review!
Mine is set in 3rd UI, It is normal to have a quick flash when going from mode 1 to 3?
I turn it on on mode 1 with a fast click, then switch to medium with 2 fast click (which is mode 3), and high with another 2 fast click.
Thank You.
I use sanyo Ncr 18650BL in the lightbox and Samsung ICR 25R. Both result are similar. I use Ansi-nena indicacions and Noticgon OTF.
Nice to see the beam pattern difference at different close up distances for multi-emitter flashlights in your review.
While the M43 doe not have true anti-roll, actually the light does not roll if you carefully place it down, you put it in a place on that table and it will stay there, that area that you see my GIF where the finger is moving will act against rolling on a flat surface. That also give a better grip of the head for the index finger.
I have other flashlights that actually simply roll instantly even if you carefully place them on a flat surface.
Took the M43 Il Monstro Meteor out for a walk last night. At the upper level High setting it was too bright for walking. Lower level illuminated plenty. The XP-L HI’s are throwing a nice white light that I really like.
Turbo is just insane! There was enough humidity in the air to show a blue diffusion around the beam, and out at the road where a visual comparison to driving could be made, it’s really a staggering amount of light coming out the front of this little stubby light! My brother pulled into the drive when I was heading back toward the house (our driveway is 300 yards long) He was impressed with how this little oddly shaped light (his words) obliterated his pick-up’s headlights. :bigsmile:
Gloves huh? Doesn’t that lose a lot of the cooling effect the hand has on a light? Guess if ambient is low enough it doesn’t really matter. We don’t see that enough of the year for me to remember it. lol
I do need to put a lanyard on this one, scared I’m gonna drop it one of these days and mess up the beautiful finish. (Never have dropped one, but still!) [knock on wood]
Edit: I sure wish this light had ToyKeeper’s ramping firmware, then it’d be easy to use just the right amount of light, reversing if going a bit far and having instant access to moon OR Turbo at the off position. I like this firmware for the big hitters, lets you use any of 64 positions to utilize output and battery life.
is turbo usable for more than 20sec or does it get really too hot (and output dives) with XPL-HI? I’m trying to figure out if it’s worth it to wait for a version with the HI or I should just go with the XPG2 3D since any more power would make the turbo totally unusable due to heat problems.
In all honesty, it works brilliantly with XP-G2’s in it. Plenty enough on Turbo, usable all the way around.
All the hot rods have limited use IF you use Turbo… and let’s face it, when it’s there we pull the trigger on it, can’t help it!
My best advice is if you’re going to use it, go with the XP-G2’s. If you’re going to play with it….
On another note, can you imagine the surprise to an intruder at 3AM, getting blasted with 12,000 lumens? I’m telling ya right now, it HURTs the eyes!
Dale, do you think the wire mod you did may account for the huge lumen increase, or are those XPL-HI’s that good?
I was about to say I’ll test the XP-L HI’s output in my light box after I finish my next mod/upgrade… but I just remembered that the light already blows out the light box even before upgrading its output.
So… I’m not going to have a very good idea how bright it is until I build that integrating sphere I’ve been putting off.
Why do you think it is more power? It is the same power (watts) so not more heat for the same lumens, if anything less power if the voltage of the XP-L High Intensity is lower @ 2A than it is for the XP-G2 @ 2A. (you can see it is lower at 1.5A so going up that will proportionally increase, still keeping the XP-L HI a tiny bit lower voltage).
Recently I was posting this, you can see the wattage of both LEDs on the "LED W" column, watts tell you the heat.
Ray-O-Light, I didn’t really do a wire upgrade, bypassed the springs yes but that may have actually just let the driver be a little more efficient and drop current since it’s a boost driver.
I think the difference is in the losses from de-doming the XP-L as compared to not having to mess with the HI. I know the losses de-doming an XP-L are much less usually than it’s bigger brother, but when you take it by the dozen then things change exponentially. I mean, a 100 lumen loss becomes 1200 lumens, like that. And with the factory flat silicone fitting the optic better, there are probably less optics losses as well. So I can see where it might make a 2000 lumen difference, but I can’t see it being more than that so I really am not sure why the big numbers. It does em though, if you could see it at work you’d understand…
I really can’t explain why it makes such high output, the numbers say it shouldn’t. Double checking my lightbox with the old ceiling bounce, this little light illuminates a 20x20 room like flipping big overhead’s on. It’s making a LOT of light! For whatever reason, it works brilliantly and I’ll take that! :bigsmile:
Hikelite is right about watts being watts, this kind of driver is going to make what it makes, pretty straightforward on that and very difficult to alter without skewing the entire UI and risking going up in smoke.