I bought two Z1s. So excited about this light! I’ve been waiting many years for a spiritual successor to the Zebralight SC64/SC65, the smallest 18650 in existence. The Z1 is about the same size as the SC65/SC65. But Z1 has a much more powerful and larger emitter, better tint, tailcap magnet that Zebralights don’t, and the ultra efficient LUME X1 driver. The Z1 is a dream come true for those that care about owning the absolute tiniest but powerful flashlight in existence!
Now in brass
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The smallest 18650 light I’ve used is a CNQG Brass Beauty. It’s slightly longer than a SC65, but it’s only ~20.8mm wide at the widest point. So it’s significantly thinner than a SC52, slightly thinner than a KR1AA, or about the same as a TS10. But since the 18650 cell is 15mm longer than a 14500 cell, and because this light has a tail clicky switch, it’s 16mm longer than a KR1AA. Roughly 97mm long and 19.5 to 20.8mm wide.
Going by some rough calculations… the volume in cubic cm is something like…
AA/14500 (and 16340): (14500 = ~8 cm3, 16340 = ~7)
- 17: L3 Illumination L10
- 18: Olight S-Mini (16340)
- 22: Wurkkos TS10
- 22: FWAA
- 24: Noctigon KR1AA
- 26: Emisar D3AA
- 26: ZL SC52
- 29: Sofirn SP10 Pro
- 41: Sipik SK68
18650: (18650 = ~17 cm3)
- 32: CNQG Brass Beauty
- 35: ZL SC65
- 36: Brass Beauty clone
- 36: DQG Tiny 18650 IV
- 38: Fireflies Z1
- 39: Olight S2R Baton II
- 41: FW3A
- 42: Noctigon KR3
- 51: Sofirn SC31B
- 52: Noctigon KR4
- 54: Convoy S2+
21700: (21700 = ~25 cm3)
- 56: Emisar D4K
- 65: Noctigon KR1K
- 69: Fireflies X4
- 86: Fireflies E07
- 101: Wurkkos TS26
26650: (26650 = ~36 cm3)
- 103: Emisar D4S
These are very approximate though, just based on the length extruded in a circle with the light’s estimated average diameter.
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Website?
The OP Did not provide a website, so I didn’t know. How would i?!
I understand, I was kinda mystified myself when the first post went up. The OP has a firefly light name so it clicked after I saw that but it took me a minute as I’m not a firefly light fan.
The post was poorly done for those who aren’t super enthusiasts.
Has anyone got outside beam shots yet?
Its most likely a FireFlyLite, you could try that? I can post a link if you can’t google it 
imo the choice between KR3 and Z1 comes down personal preferences in Form Factor (smooth or bumpy), and Switch Position (tail or side of head).
Both have Lume X1 Driver, tailmagnets, and offer Clear Ano.
KR3 offers an 18350 body option
Because Z1 has no Tail Switch, it is 4g lighter and 2.5mm shorter
(not exactly to scale, have not seen actual side by side pic of KR3 and Z1 yet)
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I think the biggest difference is emitter count. That should make the KR3 a bit more efficient in addition to impact on beam shape.
My Z1s haven’t arrived yet but I’m pretty excited for them! I received my KR1Ks and KR1AAs this week. I like them but I have trouble really loving them. The KR1K is bigger than I expected. And I feel like I really have to crank them closed to function, which I don’t love. I do love how easy they are to mechanical lockout though! Ultimately, I think I just don’t get along with these tailswitch lights as much as I hope/expect to.
I look forward to your first hand comparisons.. 
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haha, may be a while bec mine Z1s seem to be traveling verrrry slowly. I tend to get new FFL lights immediately but wait several months before hanklights because there are often quick revisions to solve initial teething issues. So if I get KR3, won’t be until the fall.
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KR3 uses three 3535 emitters whereas Z1 uses a single larger, more efficient 5050 emitter. Actual efficiency I’m thinking should be similar but Z1 should be throwier. I would love to see actual comparisons. I have two Z1 on the way and if KR3 is good, I might buy one also
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I really wish there was a 21700 version of this light.
A single emitter 21700 light that is as small as it can get and runs Anduril with an efficient driver.
All FFL lights run 21700, for many that’s been a problem, with requests for an 18650 in the line up. They gave us the L50 Sol right angle light, and finally we have the Z1.
X1 Pharos is single emitter, though not with this style TIR.
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I think the KR1K is too big for a tail switch design. Side switches seem easier / more ergonomic for bigger lights. The KR1AA, however, is pretty fantastic IMO. I find it is nearly perfect for a small light. So I use a KR1AA mostly. A FW3A or KR3 is also nice, but that’s about the limit for comfortable tail-switch cigar grip.
For a side switch, the original Emisar D4 is pretty small too, but I find it’s too short. I prefer a D4K or DA1K instead, since it feels more like the right size for a side switch… and the extra battery capacity is nice too.
The FF Z1 is in kind of an awkward middle ground, where it might feel too small (too short) for its switch type. Maybe it’d be great, or maybe it’s too stubby… not sure. Would have to try one to find out. With a D4, my pinky finger falls off the end and grabs nothing… and the Z1 is 4mm shorter.
Would be nice if I could get it with a NTG50 4200K LED inside. It is what FF would probably call “4200K rosy”, but the closest they offer is 4000K non-rosy or 5000K non-rosy. Either way is apparently more green… so I’d probably pick 5000K to make the green less noticeable. Not sure what to expect though, since I’m not very familiar with FF’s Hopthink tints.
A plain white or translucent rubber button would be nice too, instead of “metal with a hole in the middle”, because I want the button LEDs to shine through more. I liked the original Fireflies button design with 4 “fireflies” glowing underneath. Seems weird to abandon the brand’s namesake, and block most of the light behind an opaque material.
That seems about right. The KR3 is the upper end of what’s practical for a cigar grip tail switch light… and the Z1 is the lower end of what might be practical for a side switch underhand grip light.
My overall impression is … if you have bigger hands, go for a KR3. If you have smaller hands, go for a D4v2. Even smaller hands, a Z1 would probably fit better.
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Thanks for sharing - I’ve never conceived of the connection between switch type and flashlight length the way you have. That’s a pretty interesting view.
A lot of “tactical” lights have tail switches and for some of them it’s either a two-hander or an overhand grip. The behemoth Acebeam P20 is a good example.
I have some quite a few small lights with side switches (Skilhunt EC150/M150, Sofirn SC13a, Emisar D3A, others as well I’m sure) and have never thought I would prefer they had a tail switch, but it gives me something to chew on.
Maybe for me the reason is that even if I do start with a cigar grip, I shift into a regular grip for any extended usage and with a regular grip I prefer a side switch.
Like I said, this gives me something to think about, so cheers to that!
If I post a light(OP) that I am selling, I’m going to provide the information/ specs about it and or a website. You guys obviously follow the brand I don’t. Nowhere in the op does he tell what brand of light it is, specs, website Etc So I guess I’m supposed to know because of his username Firefly light that’s what it is?!
It’s likely to be a brand as it’s in the Commercial Sellers spot, but yeah, you didn’t need to reply as I was just facilitating your gripe. It seemed such a minor thing, apologies.
Well didn’t think I needed another light but here I go lol