I’ve noticed the switch seems almost too close to the emitter end of the light. I want to think that could possibly be uncomfortable to some? Kinda makes it look a bit odd to me. Can anyone that has this light offer their thoughts on the switch placement?
However, I’m still going to get one eventually. I’ve not gotten an FFL light yet cause they all seem just too big to carry around. Some of them are interesting to me, but it’s a rare occasion that I carry a 21700 light any more. Usually only if I’m working outside at dark, in the woods, or walking which I unfortunately don’t have time for currently.
You also said that a side switch works better for bigger lights and I agree with this for the most part. I strongly prefer tailswitch for regular “EDC” although I still love the D3AA. I have a captive clip positioned in a specific way so that when I pull the light out my thumb is on the switch instantly. Harder to find a side switch sometimes, like on the DM11 for me.
Does anyone else with the Z1 have a non functional beacon mode? The one between temperature check and sos. On mine there’s no light at all, but if I press and hold in the button, then it’ll start flashing. When I release the button it goes blank again. Voltage check, temperature check, sos and beacontower modes work properly.
It uses loneoceans’ fork of the code, and may have bugs which don’t exist upstream.
However, I don’t think the beacon mode is broken in his fork. It may just be turning on at a very low level. The brightness can be set in the regular ramping mode, and then go to beacon mode and it uses the same brightness. If you have manual memory enabled and set it to the bottom of the ramp, on a loneoceans build where the bottom of the ramp is too low to see, it might make beacon mode invisible.
Well this was weird.
I did have the light level at mid ramp, but weirdly if I pressed and held the button in it would work. Let go and it goes blank.
I just tried something. When I set up my Anduril lights, I make it so that in voltage check the red aux is flashing instead of the main led. I just switched it back to main led flashing and now beacon mode works properly. I even switched back to red aux flashing, and it still works properly now.
Weird.
Mine just arrived, so here are a few pics of the unboxing from the really crap box. I’ll include a couple of the L50 Sol shipping box too, as this was truly an afterthought.
If any of you know the pleasure of unpacking a Petrified Fish knife, you will know how much of a pleasure it is to have something nicely packaged, with little extras like stickers etc.
FireFlies are clueless here, and this is far from a budget brand.
Quite a difference from the old packaging above, the thin cardboard box bulges where the accessories bag doesn’t fit properly. Inside is a broken plastic tray. Not even Sofirn use such rubbish. Accessories are o-rings and lanyard, nothing else in there apart from the manual.
Couldn’t fit this into the post above, but here is the L50 Sol box. It’s a better box, but it’s just what was to hand. This is lazy and IMO lets the company down badly.
This is disappointing. It’s not like the new boxes were great either - they’re still below Sofirn/Wurkkos in the Hank/Convoy/Zebralight class of packaging. But the old boxes were really bad.
I am a bit surprised to see them move to the old style with the dead brand name. I hope they aren’t going back to Fireflylite again lol.
Any problems with button sticking down if pressed on one side? Think I’ll ask for another, this one is rough.
Just been out with it, I chose the right emitter in the 5000K, just slightly warm but on the whole a good neutral. Whiter than the same emitter in the L50 Sol, which appears more yellow to the eye. Possibly another bin in the FFL tint lottery.
Yeah, that’s an unacceptable amount of sticking. And to add insult to injury they want you to pay for it. I would keep hounding them that it’s not my responsibility to pay for their mistake. I could understand not sending an entirely new light if just changing the button would fix it, but they should be sending the replacement and the tool for free.
Would be nice if there was an option to just use a plain white-translucent rubber button. It wouldn’t have problems with getting stuck, it makes the button LEDs more visible, and IMO it also looks nicer.
They’ll come good I’m sure. This is their standard way to respond from my own and others experience. Either I get to repair it for free, or a faulty item gets returned at their cost. No brainer for the cost of a switch and plastic tool.
Kind of annoying it running itself up to max brightness in the middle of the night and I’m wanting moonlight
I like that idea, I don’t think any of their lights use a rubber cap.
Brilliant, thank you. I’ll still need a tool as I only have the D3AA one, but the Artemis might benefit from a black button.
One thing I’ve noticed with it is there’s a complete departure from the slightly domed buttons on all the other FFL’s and it has a flat button, presumably to prevent accidental activation. This is one of the reasons it sticks. Shame, one of the best things about FFL was the consistently nice switches.
lol! Light is now completely dead, or I get a few limited functions.
Last Fireflies light for me after a list of problems.
X1 Pharos reflector version, got sent the TIR version.
Nov_Mu, driver issues, no turbo, flickering during ramping. New head sent out.
L50 Sol, no issues and it’s a cool light, but clip is hopeless and headband is hopeless, making a right-angle light kinda useless.
Z1 Artemis, slightly damaged switch button, sticking switch button, stopped working completely, cleaned contacts and now works a bit but most of Anduril such as aux colour/brightness not working. 10 clicks to change UI not working etc.
Being asked to pay $5 for a tool to fix a light sent out faulty was the last straw.
I assume resetting it didn’t help? I had one FFL misbehave in a similar way. Resetting Anduril fixed it. Working perfectly fine ever since.
What’s wrong with the clip? Seems perfectly fine to me (I have two L50 Sol)
The headband that comes with the L50 is low quality junk for sure but tbh, wo cares? Just use it with one of the many better headbands that all of us have lying around anyways
