If I clip, and I use the term loosely, to a shirt pocket, the torch isn’t gripped at all, it slides out if I bend down. It also bends easily, the steel is thinner than the clip on the KR1AA, and that was a grumble for a lot of people.
As for the headband, buying into a premium brand, why should I be rooting around for an old Wurkkos headband?
No, the light does not reset, 10 clicks and hold doesn’t blink the light into Advanced UI.
Since when is FFL considered a premium brand? If using a different headband on a light like that is a dealbreaker, then I guess lots of lights are not right for you.
Tailcap method doesn’t work? What happens when you try that? Does it appear to reset (the light slowly getting brighter and then flash) or just nothing?
Since they are expensive, and have a reputation for crisp buttons and high quality fit and finish, they are a premium brand IMO.
I’ve already stated Fireflies are no longer for me, you’re repeating it. Yes all the flashy reset works fine, but there’s no way to advance from there. I don’t expect to receive a light with a badly marked switch or a switch that sticks down and be expected to pay for the tool to fix it.
And with the L50 Sol, another clearly premium light, I shouldn’t have to find a headband (for a headtorch). If you think this is fine then you’re a mug. You’re the troll from the scam company thread aren’t you? Been here since 2022 and made 8 posts in 4 years, all last few days, most of them trolling in that thread trying to take down a dodgy company. My hero. 
You’re welcome. Hope you’re enjoying the show.
… has been very, uh, interesting.
Haven’t seen so many red flags in one place in a long time. It looks like they’re a legit monster truck accessory company though, starting to get into flashlights, and … hired, like, the worst marketing person on the planet to announce their new direction. It takes a special talent to make a real company look so fake.
I don’t have any recent Fireflies lights. My newest model is a … PL47 G2, I think? At the time, FF quality was pretty questionable. Like, I have two of the E07 but neither one works now. One died because its MCPCB wasn’t touching the host’s heat sink plate… due to manufacturing errors, the MCPCB for that entire batch was basically air-gapped, floating, unable to shed heat. The other died because the switch broke from just light occasional use. Back then, the switches were generally worse than average, very low travel, without much audible or tactile feedback, and easy to break.
The hosts at the time generally looked nice, but were bulky. The gen2 hosts improved the quality significantly, but the PL47 G2 was still not practical as a headlamp due to the size, weight, and shape… and mine has one of the ugliest SST-20 beams I’ve ever seen.
OTOH, the original ROT66 219 has one of the nicest-looking beams, and I use it as a reference for tint and beam quality, and also use it to calibrate my lightbox before each measurement. I’m just kind of afraid to try updating the firmware, because in the past, it has taken 100+ tries each time, and I don’t want it to become a brick. Something about the circuit makes it really, really not want to be reflashed.
Anyway, I heard back from Jack so I’m hopeful that we can get the firmware situation sorted out for the newer FF lights. I’ve been getting reports about a variety of firmware issues on those… like just yesterday someone was complaining that the unsupported lume firmware was making their LEDs smoke because thermal regulation refused to ramp down until the light was way too hot. And looking into the code fork they’re using, it appears that issue probably affects every current Fireflies light.
Some throw measurements compared to the SC65c HI. The Z1 has a fairly floody optic.
My FFL lights tend to step down pretty quickly. Typically it’s because the thermal calibration on the Lume drivers is off - sometimes way off. I’ve received lights where it’s 15 degrees or more high and steps down within a few seconds.
I have virtually every FFL currently in release and haven’t seen any of them hold onto turbo too long. But, in fairness, I haven’t spent much time with the Lume10 drivers which may be where this is acute.
Hah, I have one, and take back what I said about FFL not using silicone buttons.
It’s a great little mule. I have it with the shorty tube and it has one task. It’s stuck on the fridge in my camper right next to the bed and is invaluable for searching the cubby holes for a packet of biscuits last thing at night. As you say, the beam is horrible for much real world usage.
The current Anduril build included with newer Lume drivers has a feature that disables thermal regulation below 71°C in turbo, which makes it very easy to reach burning hot surface temperatures. This is a KR1K after two turbo runs. It took 15 minutes to get back down to the 45°C set point.
I found the code for it yesterday, and it appears to affect the “Lume” driver lights using loneoceans’ fork of Anduril.
Normally, Anduril’s thermal regulation tries to “steer into the turns”, so to speak. It looks ahead a bit, and when it sees it is rapidly approaching the user’s configured temperature limit, it tries to start adjusting the output. That way, it can stabilize right at the desired temperature. The overall curve looks similar to a race car taking a tight turn, where the driver starts steering before reaching the turn, to avoid slamming into the wall.
But in loneoceans’ fork, it specifically disables that when running at the turbo level. It looks ahead, sees that it’s about to slam into a wall, and explicitly does nothing. It detects an overheat condition and ignores it instead of sending a warning to the UI code. So it slams into the wall. But it doesn’t stop at the wall… it breaks through and continues to do nothing for a while. It doesn’t allow any “steering” to happen until after it has already gone quite a bit past the wall, and is significantly hotter than the user’s configured temperature limit.
… and THEN it tries to begin steering. After it’s already way too hot.
Hence why it got up to 78 C on the outside of the light when configured for 50 C. (or in F, it got up to 173 F when configured to stop at 122 F)
Interesting - I’ve not done the same testing on my Hank lights, including KR1K. I agree that this is a pretty consequential problem.
Definitely concerning - any idea when this problem emerged? I’ve never seen anything like it in turbo-ing my various FFLs.
It looks like it was added at the beginning of 2024.
