I have to say, the recessed switch on this light has basically ruined less pocket friendly side switch EDC lights for me.
I used a cloth and pliers. Room temperature. No damage to the finish.
Now I’m waiting impatiently for a 5 degree yajiamei I bought here: http://s.aliexpress.com/RjI3iuiE (Thanks Anthon!)
I hv just ordered the Unicorn 1.0. Would like to know if the strobe or beacon brightness can be adjusted? Or they would just flash at max power? Also the manufacturer runtime is based on which capacity batt?
Does anyone have a good US-based source for the 5mm yajiamei optic? I really like my Unicorn but the beam is a little ugly, ringy with green tint shift in the corona. Hoping a new optic will help. I don’t want to spend $3.50 for a .30 cent part and wait a month for the slow boat if I can avoid it. Or if anyone has one to spare I can take it off your hands for a few bucks!
Have you reviewed Zebralights?
I have 5° and a 60° optics from 20 packs that I bought for my Armytek Prime C2 Pro that I’ve been helping with those who have bought the Prime C2 Pros getting their optic replaced. Not sure if this will work for you but here’s a link to what I have. I’m in Arizona. All I ask is for shipping to be covered. Let me know if that works out for you.
I reached out to Yajia a few days ago about their shipping. If you order several optics and check out but dont pay they will adjust the shipping based on weight. I haven’t taken them up on it but I will. I had like 15 optics in my cart and shipping was $20 for like $7 in product. If you have other projects or types in mind you might find that to be worth it to you.
Thank you so much, this would be great! sending you a PM.
I borrowed one of Bob’s for a week, but otherwise I’ve never touched them.
Today I have finally received a big packet after it was stuck at customs for more than a week.
Wow, six YLP Unicorn 1.0! That would be amazing, but too good to be true. 
Just a single one, but that is what I had ordered. For a short time I was suprised by the complex cyrillic export declaration that I absolutely could not read. But you don’t have to understand it to look at the light in astonishment.
The button requires a lot of force and it is recessed, thus really pocket friendly. The knurling is not pocket friendly, but feels good in the hand. The pattern does not line up with the head, but that’s not an issue for me. Sadly the TIR lens was not centered. I tried several times to align it but I was not successful. When you tighten the bezel ring the lens rotates and shifts a little bit.
Please tell me if you have a solution for that problem. I will also look for another lens, but in the meantime I will try d-c-fix to remove the rings.
Now it’s time to play with the firmware. Just had a look at the default UIs and tested some features, but I’ve already read the advanced manual. So far I like the light. It’s not extremeley powerful, small, throwy or floody as other lights, but it’s a great tradeoff and inexpensive EDC light.
edit: With d-c-fix it is a lot smoother. Great floody beam!
Definitely smoother and more uniform with the DC-Fix.
Coupon code dead?
Just tried it - don’t read Russian - can’t copy/paste message to see what they say when discount is not applied.
I like the fact that this builder uses NW emitters …
Thoughts on mine:
Bad:
- No true moonlight kills this light for me. 
I know others can get by with that but with dark-adjusted eyes even 3lm is WAY too much IMO.
- Side switch won’t be activating accidentally since it’s so stiff, but combined with the short travel it seems to make multi-clicks kind of difficult, and I’ve never had that problem with a side switch before
Neutral:
- Beam is a fairly wide hotspot with little spill. Personally I prefer a bit wider/brighter spill but some DC Fix could solve that issue, and its actually a really useful beam for an EDC light
- Mode spacing seems to favor the high end a bit too much. I’d drop everything between low and turbo down a smidge but YMMV.
- Aggressive knurling: lots of grip but also a potential pocket-killer if you plan to use the clip
Pros:
- Good tint bin for the 351Ds they used. Matches the one in my SC64 LE almost exactly
- Strong magnet that’s easy to remove
- Haven’t disassembled due to the construction but the build quality seems solid, emitter is almost perfectly centered in mine
- Love the slight “ramp” between on/off and different modes even when in discrete output mode
TL;DR - For me not close to a cheaper ZL alternative due to the lowest mode being 3lm, but a great light if that isn’t a concern. Would take it over an Olight or Thrunite in a heartbeat for the far better tint and color rendering + great UI.
A question for Inferion:
UI1, UI2 and UI3 have different defaults of ramping/discrete and memory. Can you change these settings in the engineering menu without assigning the corresponding toggle commands to a slot? Or do I have to assign the command to a slot, use it and remove it afterwards? Are these settings stored when I save the working area to UI (1|2|3)?
Looks like the level memory is kept even after unscrewing the tailcap. So it’s written to EEPROM every time the output is changed. I expected it to be stored in RAM (although most EEPROM allow 100,000 to 1,000,000 cycles).
Yes, that is the correct link for FSM. It is far from complete, but it works well enough for a few dozen types of flashlights. It currently supports attiny45, attiny85, and attiny1634. It can handle 1, 2, 3, or 4 power channels, plus a single color or RGB aux LED, and one e-switch. The UI is written as a stack based finite state machine, because it is similar to how people describe interfaces in human language. This makes the UI code relatively easy to write and understand.
It is possible to write the system part in assembly, with a boot loader and ABI. But it is complicated and I am not sure it would be worth the effort.
Instead, I think I will rewrite how the interrupts work, and move all the logic code so it runs later. This should help improve a few things, and it might make DSM possible in C.
It is probably okay. Many lights do this, like the BLF-A6 for example. If it uses wear levelling, the eeprom should still last a long time.
Has anyone tried the BLF A6 clip on this light? Will it fit? If yes, then can be a deep pocket carry light. 
Do you have any specs for the clip (like diameter and width of the round part)?
Wizard Pro clips fits, but sticks 1cm above the tail (bezel down config).
Clip slot is 22.5mm diameter and just under 5mm tall.
Top of the clip slot to the head of the light is 50mm.