Don’t let ‘output numbers’ lead you astray. They’re just numbers - and yes, cooler emitter temperatures do boast marginally higher numbers - but the overall usefulness of a light is judged by a lot more than an extra hundred lumens here or there. I can guarantee you’ll never be able to tell the difference between 1,000 lumens and 1,100 lumens with your naked eye.
It’s a bit like saying that a street rod will go 10 km./hr faster than a Mercedes. It might, but that doesn’t necessarily make it a better car overall.
If you spend any amount of money on cool emitters for the simple reason of higher lumen numbers, it would be wise to brush up on your modding skills, because you’ll probably be swapping them out before long. That’s where a lot of us began……me included.
I smile a bit when I read some posts on this forum debating the merits and faults of the range of Kelvin temperature LEDs in modern flashlights.
My youth was in the age of Lincoln Logs,Erector Sets,Gilbert Chemistry Sets and an olive drab boy scout flashlight that housed 2 Everready D batteries(notorious leakers).I like modern LED flashlights
Yes,the light's K temperature on an object will render observed color differently but of no concern when only adequate lighting is needed to find something in darkness or illuminate the path.
My SP33v3 with ShockLi 26650 5500mAhdoesn't appear to be too cool but that's only my novice opinion.My Nitecore EA41(2015)had a very easy to see cool blue tint but served it's purpose well until the copper tops leaked in it and it no longer functions.I'd like to rebuild it but for lack of knowledge.
I find the moonlight mode in flashlights useless but stepped low,medium,high and turbo quite useful.I'm on the fence with other functions.
Ah, erector sets. I’m in agreement with you on ML or FF mode. At my age , the more light the better. And during the day, those very low modes make you look at the led to make sure it is not on before setting it down or putting it back in your pocket. They should be like turbo or strobe, not in the main cycle.
I haven’t seen it in person yet, but I’m thinking the CRI is the weakest point. I really didn’t think I would care much about CRI, but after seeing the SST-20, I find myself slightly irritated by the hazy look of lower CRI light.
Yes it is very normal for CCT and tint (DUV) to vary that much. In fact this light is one of the more consistent ones except for the moonlight mode.
My TA light tube is calibrated with Maukka lights but I seem to be measuring on the low end of everyone with the same setup. The only manufacturers that I consistently measure higher than their official rating are Olight and Fenix. Emisar is “usually” pretty spot on and sometimes higher or lower. All other manufacturers including Acebeam, Zebralight, Thrunite, Sofirn, etc. “usually” measure lower in my lumen tube than what they spec.
I think I will pass on this light. The tint seems cold and the CRI is low. From what I have read on here this is not ideal. Also it does not seem to meet specifications.
I received my SP 33 V3 yesterday after a long wait.
When I first took it out the package I was wondering how heavy the flashlight was. Then I unscrewed the tailcap just to find a Sofirn labeled 26650 cell in there. The black one with 5500mAh printed on. (Flashlight ordered on Banggood)
The looks of the flashlight are better to me in person than on the pictures. Looks and feels good (very good grip)!
The beam is not pleasing to be honest - but it’s okay. Brightness is fine, probably under 3500lm as stated before. U.I. is super simple and the switch feels good.
I tested the Sofirn 26650 cell and it seems to be a fine one.
Internal resistance about 0,23mOhm
Capacity test showed me 5430mAh
Well filed a dispute today. Bought from ali store and my messages were unanswered for 3 weeks. Status was shipment cancelled. Tried contacting Sofirn via many ways. Got two answers saying that they dont run the aliexpress store and thats it. I never got my SP33v3. Was really looking forward to this light. But no I will probably never spend a dime to Sofirns direction. Atrocious customer service!
Found a review of the SP33 v2.0 on Zeroair and shocked at how VERY efficient it is. The driver efficiency is on the level of Olight, Fenix, Nitecore, and Zebralight! Wow
Sofirn should continue to sell v2.0 alongside v3.0 because some people would prefer the super efficient driver and perfect regulation.
Have a SP33v2, swapped emitter w/ 5000ºK (damaged led in transit). Best budget light for sustained high. Great UI - low/med/high w/double click for temporary turbo. Long press from off for Moonlight (~ 10 lumens), just right for a evening walk.
I lose mine at 3.70 volts. Dirty connections can have an effect. Boost drivers need as much voltage as possible so you want to make sure the circuits are clean with no extra resistance.
And during the day, those very low modes make you look at the led to make sure it is not on before setting it down or putting it back in your pocket. They should be like turbo or strobe, not in the main cycle.
