When they started arriving with forward clickies, I just shrugged. I guess if my flashlights had some mission-critical purpose, it might bother me - one way or the other. If I had a choice I honestly don't know which I'd choose and I certainly would not pay extra for a reverse clicky.
The people I've sold to haven't even commented about it. They just gush about how awesome it is and can I "get them another." It's the strangest thing . . . . I'm completely honest and tell them I'm simply ordering from a company on-line. I even offer to send the links to what needs to be ordered. Nope. My boss, couple of the mechanics we use and this one gentleman that funds a lot of our pricier cars; they want me to "build them a flashlight."
I'm not complaining. I've been known for worse things and it's fun to see someone experience a truly bright flashlight for the first time. It's an un-tapped market for sure.
The 2011 version of the L2 bodies has a 3 mm shorter battery tube. This gives You better compatibility with unprotected 18650s and still works with protected ones. Now they have the same length like Surefire battery tubes.
Solarforce has those 3-mode xml’s.
They draw 1.6-1.7amps. If this is enough and ?"0 is no issue, get it.
Intl. Outdoor also has those new dropis with tint, mode and draw options. A bit pricey for 23 but might be good and worth it.
JO at Solarforce Sales said it was $2 for the reverse clicky, and $1.50 to include the forward clicky. Now that begs the question, can they just leave the forward clicky in place and charge me $1.50 to throw a reverse clicky in with the package? With shipping, the switches, etc., this makes the blue L2P host $30.49 which I'm not going to pay. Now the sand L2 for $8.99 is looking a lot better.
A long time ago (okay, maybe just a year ago) Jack posted a pic of his sand L2 with the attack bezel smoothed down about 50%, on CPF. That picture is what inspired me to begin experimenting which lead untimately to Foybezels™. My flashlight addiction was in its infancy at the time and when I saw that picture, I remember thinking it was the hotest light I had ever seen.
I hated my L2P's Forward Clicky and ordered these (http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/part-replacement-tailcap-switch-for-c850060080090010001200-10pcsset-p-5947) from Manafont.
They fit the L2P tailcap perfectly, although there is now some play on the rubber boot before it touches the clicky switch. I'm still thinking of stuff to fill that gap :-)
Try a dab of silicone sealant on the end of the switch. Clean it with alcohol first and let it dry prior to putting the rubber boot back on. You can smooth the silicone out nicely with your finger by keeping it moist with saliva.
You might need to rough up the end to help it adhere to the end of the switch
I just received my blue L2P. Pretty expensive but almost worth it. Almost because its flawless except for the upper part of the tailcap knurling. Looks a little shattered there. Other than that, really great feeling! Still waiting for my MF dropin..
This and the reverse clicky are the only differences that I can see. I bought a new one last year and regret missing the earlier ones because I can make use of the extra length for a bit more heartsink material and I prefer forward clickies.
Takes an AW Protected 3400mAH. The 3100mAH Redilast fits and I’ve got 2900mAH Panasonic cells on the way. Haven’t had any issues to date with anything I’ve tried, but I haven’t tried the cheaper flames.
