DeepDawg, your mods and detailed descriptions have been a tremendous help. Thank you for your expertise and direction with this torch.
I replied to your PM. I never saw a link to o-rings but I’ve got a good brick and mortar supplier local. That’s where I bought the bunas I call-out in my mod post. I’m sure they’re all over Ebay in quantity packs.
I played around with sizes and hardness and had best results using that size on both o-ring channel sizes.
Cool Thanx,
Hello,
I had bought this flashlight before I reading this forum 
It looks on paper well, but in reality…
Specific problem of my flashlight is the sealing close to glass lens or completely sealing of the lens.
I unscrewed the first part (with one red rubber o-ring) from head of flashlight (very easy).
I unscrewed the second part - inner circle completely without seal (little bit complicated).
I am very surprised, that there is no special seal between this inner circle and glass lens. This construction cannot be watertight.
The only sealing is between the glass lens and reflector (mirror), but in my case, this rubber seal is damaged and part of it is squeezed between lens and aluminium body.
Is your flashlight the same? Do you have the same sealing?
Thanks for info.
Tomas
Well, you guys are great.
I’ve just ebay’ed myself into this same pit of despair (well…three days ago)
But i think there is enough info here to “swim” my way back out.
I guess time will tell.
For what it’s worth (from a newbie) this thread needs stickying and Dawg needs a Halo!
(If both haven’t happened already. Six pages down, an emotional roller coaster and not enough “mind coolant” so i may have missed it….)
Either way, by about page two i was ready to drop the whole deal down to an expensive learning experience…
I’d thought i was fairly careful before purchase, but had obviously missed this thread. I’d even bought a mini 01 just to see Trustfire’s “build” quality first hand and was actually impressed. (perhaps…“Mmmm…. bright and shiny” isn’t enough thought. Kicks self!)
I can see many more falling for this and i, too, am of the opinion that this just shouldn’t happen in today’s world. Out of interest, why do current Chinese manufacturing techniques seem to go for SOooo….many parts and so O’rings? Is it so much easier to CNC mill simple pieces and then tack them together?
Sincerely gents. Thanks! (Dawg particularly)
Dan
I should get my shiny new nightmare in about a week……I’ll keep you informed. Largely for youre amusement.
Hello Tomas and Dan,
Welcome to the not so proud club of TuRD owners. Thanks for your comments and for letting us know you’re reading.
I have found flashlight threads in Russian and German all sharing the same experiences with this model as it arrives new. I truly hope that your lights will work as well as mine when you finish my mods.
I have noticed that Trustfire has removed all traces of this model from their website so they will likely NOT be making more of these.
I also found THIS while looking into a brand called EDI-T which I have been a bit more impressed with. If anyone reading this can find it for sale in quantities less than 1,000, please let us all know.
There is very little information on it other than what you see. It is also a 3X CREE T6 but with a proper magnetic rotary switch like most EDI-T dive lights. The EDI-T model number is D39N3000-R-26650. If you click on “View More” next to price, you will see a minimum order of 1,000 units!!
I cannot find it on the EDI-T website but my impression is that this design made it to prototype but never found the support to go to production because of its obvious weakness. They chose to power three XM-L T6 CREE emitters with a single 26650 battery. This would limit the run-time on “HIGH” to be no more than 30 or 40 minutes.
Dawg
Tomas,
That sounds familiar. Hopefully, we’ll get yours working too.
Yeah, and the bezel is just extra weight. But it looks good.
Thanks for posting the photos.
I was just lucky that neither of my two lights leaked at the lens since I have read stories of many others who have had trouble with that seal leaking. While I was replacing most of my o-rings, I checked the lens seals before test diving them and they looked fine so I left them. It looks like the factory ruined your lens o-ring when they put it in wrong.
I have never removed my lens so until I take mine apart and begin measuring, I can not give you a size or o-ring number to order. I can only recommend finding a good silicone o-ring that is a bit larger and then just re-assemble with silicone grease before torquing it.
Best of luck to you.
Dawg
I’ve read this thread with great interest.
Thank you so far.
Before I found this I made my own rear cap mod without removing anodizing. I plainly cut a piece from a tin in round shape that it would be wide enough to cover the end of the torch inside but not wide enough to touch the cap’s inside. To prevent it from sliding to touch the cap, I glued a piece of plastic against the metal plate.
Then I glued on the other side of the metal plate a simmer ring that will touch the back of the battery. Voila…no need to remove the anodizing…as the metal plate will conduct and prevent conduction via the rear cap.
If someone wants a photo, I can send via email or upload to your destination. Not have a place myself wher e I can publish it.
However I have a different issue… as mentioned the oxidizing and saltwater and dirt etc…ruin the thread over time…not by closing it but when opening and closing it wears out…thus the end cap not sitting in its place anymore but coming off by itself due to the strength of the spring inside.
Does anyone have a mod for that, to renew the thread or maybe even entirely replace the rear cap against something less heavy?
Or even better has anyone had a go at building a dive case for the ‘8000’ lumen TR-J18 7X CREE XM-L T6 torch, or modding it waterproof?
Haha, actually I’m right now finishing drawings for a new light head for TR-J18. 
It’s a bit tricky since it doesn’t have similar kind of drop-in module inside as the TR-DF003. Have to detach the leds and stuff
thanks for that info! could you please upload the photos to: http://tinypic.com/
Another thing, as I know Trustfire doesnt manufacture that model anymore.
But you can still see new listings on the net of the df003 for a very low price for example:
Look at the pictures, it looks like the threads already has the “shaving mod” - what do you think?
You think that nothing was fixed in that model?
Metal disc cut from bean can and plastic cut from food packaging and a simmer ring glued all together…
The metal disk large enough to cover the rear of the tube but small enough not to touch the tail cap. The plastic disc/sheet a little larger to prevent the metal disc from touching the tail cap.
!
!
How to use it…
thanks!!
Let me know If I understood you well?
Yes….
and the plastic prevents from conduction with the tail cap…
thus it has to overlap the metal disc by one millimeter or so…
The simmer ring is essential to have conduction from battery to the metal disc
thanks!
About the oxidizing…
I think that it was mentioned in the past by DeepDawg, the “Shave mod” should prevent it (NEW TrustFire TR-DF003 2x26650 3xCREE XM-L Diving Light), correct me if i’m wrong.
I think they only do it because they do not use s plastic disc to insulate.
my mod works and it’S not oxidizing…but the alloy thread is worn out already after a few dozent dives…opening and closing it so and so often…
So I am thinking of either replacing the whole endcap with some selfmade plastic piece that I will glue onto the alloythread and then have a plastic end cap on that…but I couldn’t find any fitting tubes in the local diy shop as yet…but didn’t look hard either…LOL…
If I find a new solution I’ll upload it.
The shave mod does prevent oxidizing from happening. I have dove with mine 10 times since doing the mod and not a problem…. Occasionally I have to hit the light because it goes in to a different mode but it cycles through to high again.
Hey guys. After the DF003 fiasco, what do you think about the DF002. It is 88$ including a charger and 2 TF 26650s. It is plastic covered and has infinite dimming. I think they have learnt their lessons. But it still scares me to pay that much money and go through the same thing like DF003. How much can a plastic covered body dissipate the heat? Under the water, it may be tolareted somewhat I guess. Maybe that’s why it is underdriven that much (1500lumen with 3T6s). Or should I get something like this. I have 18650s and can charge them with my headlamp (too cheap to commit myself to a charger yet :8). It looks like I could use it on land as well.
I got good price for the light with the charger and batteries (original Trustfire 26650 no other 18650 crap). It was 69$ shiped via expres DHL. I knew for the problems it has but with batteries and the charger worth around 30$ alone i just couldnt resist. The moding provided by Jim also works so i said to mineselves, lets go for it and had idea of moding it mineselves already made as well. So i did it Recievd and tested it and yes ofc its same unusable light as all other reported. But i did fixed it. What i did:
- Took out the tail spring - easy just pull and dont worry it goes back in with some presure on it
- Isolated the half (lower half) of the spring with thelmalstretch isolation used with soldering and isolating wires on conections.
This way i have ISOLATED bateries AWAY from the tail, since the spring is the conection part. This way there is NO WAY that light would come ON at any condition and therefore NO SHORTING trought the watter.
So how to get it on?
I have used a bit of soldering and made a small buble of cync in the middle of the spring (top not isolated part of the spring) facing don towords the tail.
So what happens now. U need to adjust this piece of soldering material to be just big enought in order to conect the batteries and the tail when and onlly when fully twisted.
Works FLAWLESSLY for me and i am happy.
Light came with new white orings wich looks to work great as well. Onlly thing now for me is - i would love to instal stronger driven to get better light output. Any recomendations?
My mod was pretty similar, only I just shortened the tailspring so it doesn’t contact when tailcap is loosened few rounds. I can also switch modes stroking the light.
I use this driver. You have to put the leds in series for that. It gives this lamp a lot of punch but in the other hand the batteries may not last even for one dive.
Nowadays I use this. DIY canisterlamp with seven XM-L U2 in series driven 3 A