What about using different solders with different melting temperatures? One lead-free and one lead-based. Shouldnt be too hard to solder with some flux I guess.
I completely agree about those three little wires. A bitch to do which makes me think the single sided board is a simpler, more sturdy way to go. Also, what works well in one light doesn’t mean it’s easy to mass produce reliably. I understand how you feel about doing the project yourself and only make the offer if it is a difference maker(go vs no go) on the project due to the difficulty of producing a single sided driver with 2A or more drive current. If you ever decide that a BLF collaborative edition is worthwhile, I’m sure you will have volunteers to share the work load and add their bit. In other words, if you change your mind, count me in.
I frequently use both types in a single project but not in the same joint. The solder for my contact discs is lead free as is the solder for joining copper pieces. I may solder one end of a wire with lead free and the other with eutetic.
02-18-2013 New Update: This will be a Nichia 219 High CRI light! The recent poll showed the Nichia winning at three to one odds and Craig just lowered the price, so it's a done deal. It will be the Nichia with a 1.4 amp or 1.5 amp driver.
When I get the sample light this week, I will be starting the pre-order thread. I already bought the leds, because of Craig's sale.
Justin, have you tried the Nichia with the stock reflector instead of the TIR? I was just comparing my mini nichia with the TIR against the LED mini xpg2 with the stock reflector (I think you used stock) and the stock reflector has a really nice beam profile with more usable flood. The TIR is more concentrated and illuminates in a smaller more focused area.
No room for the stock reflector and a driver. Using the stock reflector forefits almost all of the heat sink and it has to go DD. With a driver in that, it would be just the driver and the star. Only 5mm space in there for everything, with the reflector.
Oh yeah. Mines direct drive. I forgot your were giving us modes.
Hi Justin,
I was reading and thought of a solution to your design for soldering. I did the best I could reading all the thread so forgive me if this has been mentioned or tried by you.
With the driver set in the coupler, cut two lines in the body of the coupler to bend over a small sliver of coupler to solder to the negative ring of the driver.
Or solder braid or wire to the negative ring and drill a hole through the coupler to pass the braid or wire and solder at the hole.
Wish I could draw it, I think you’ll get it 
Russ
I get it, not a bad idea. I think it will not be an issue with the single sided driver. As far as isolating the whole copper coupling, I am leaning towards polyimide tape. It might be interesting to wrap the coupling with one layer of it and see how it does.
i just noticed that i do not have ANY 219s in my collection (i had a p60 for a few months but sold)
this is looking better and better
The sample light arrived and I put up a poll if you like the logo or not. I will watch the results and then the real thread will begin. 
I have been working a spreadsheet for a timeline and that way I can track my own progress against the timeline.
I'm excited about doing this and a little apprehensive at the same time. Guess that's the way with any big project.
I already ordered the Nichia leds and Craig is going to get the XP-G stars. I contacted Kaidomain and made sure they have 40 of the V2 1.5 amp 4x7135 drivers. They do and they responded within 24 hours. That's encouraging. I already have the TIR optics, since I use them all the time anyhow. So, the only thing coming from China will be the drivers & dummy cells. Everything else comes from the USA.