any idea why the NW options are 10$ more expensive?
One question to all the mechanics here. I talked with Wildtrail about the option to not screw in a copper will into the head but to press it in. To get a better contact to the Aluminium Head.
But the factory is worried about the structural stability of of the head during the press operation. I think aslong the material has no weak spots in the design and they use a jig that fits the head (to take the press load right) this should not be a problem.
But they also said that they see maybe problems because the Aluminium and the Copper are simmilar from the hardness. This could make problems during the press operation and could make the pressfit a weak spot.
I think most of the time i know what i am doing and i have a bit of experiance. But pressfitted connections are not a thing i have much knowladge about.
So i hope to get some more input from you guys.
It's a challenge with dissimilar materials, the underlying issue here, and their unique expansion characteristics. And... I got nothing.
We need a materials engineer who can know the exact properties of the alloys they're using.
without more info about the light it’s kind of limited what reply people can give.
for example, some lights (BLF Q8, Sofirn C8F, etc) can have a screw from underneath securing everything
new Ti models of FW3A are using twice as thick MCPCB (i think, still need to verify this) to offset Ti loss
maybe the design would be fine with just Aluminum shelf if it can incorporate fins in the right spots
usually press in should be done before the rest get machined
The description still has some flaws
Firmware is Bistro HD OTSM v1.7.1
For further information and questions please visit: budgetlightforum.com
this should be more specific like pointing either to my topic
[Flashing drivers] Lexels firmware builds and flashing guide - #6 by Lexel
and Flintrocks topic
Just don’t do a cold, shear press fit. I have pressed fit a few copper pills into aluminum lights. All my Surefire 6P copper quad pills are press fit, TK61’s with huge copper plate press fit, Courui D01’s with chunky thick press fit copper pills to the top of the e-switch hole, no problems. But they were never pressed in COLD.
. Heat the aluminum up either by Induction or Convection the aluminum will expand, I limit my interference (press) fit to .0015- .002” maybe .003” at the most, which often results with a slight shear of the copper depending on the expansion of the host.
. More importantly the roundness of both the copper pill and the aluminum bore it is going into is critical for a clean, robust shrink/press fit after cooling. It might take a few tests depending of the material/thickness (rate of expansion) being used.
. I would start with a 0015-.002” Interference fit…Heat/Press/Cool and test…
Once again, wouldn’t a thicker MCPCB be a lot easier?
Agree with Dale here, a press-fit copper pill is fancy but if the manufacturer is uneasy about that, a good sized copper board on a thick aluminium shelf will work just as well.
Easy Peasy… thicker, wider, flatter DTP MCPCB better contact to a thick flatter smooth finished shelf screwed down tight…… Yes Please :+1:
K.I.S.S.
And if it needs modding Dale and Kawi promise to make everyone copper rounds to fit their other mcpcbs
:sunglasses: :+1:
It is hard to say anything concrete without drawings. We dont know parts thickness and shape, is there place for stop step or no, are there any thin walls that can be damaged, can you add a slide fit edge for easy centering while pressing down and etc.
So next things are common and may not be helpfull in your project.
From the first look, press fit tolerances are more precise than threaded connection. Nowadays all use full profile thread inserts and there is no need for carefull inspection of thread properties for flashlights. You can just check OD of part with outer threads and ID of part with inner threads and this is OK.
For light press fit (preferable and the only right type of fit for parts from soft metalls), you need much tighter tolerances (like 0.02mm max) between two parts - and this might be a problem in mass manufacturing. Nobody wants to add extra operation, buy extra tools and add extra inspection when it is not necessary.
However, new cnc machines (with feedback from optical scales) are very presize and carbide tools wear is so tiny so precision is not a problem anymore.
Yes it is preferable when one part is harder than another. Even not so - usually you have one part that is harder and it is perfect (shape and dimensions), and another part (softer). And first part is target - you dont change it, just need to machine second one to fit it. Sometimes you can use this harness difference for your needs - for example, lower surface quality on softer part will fit well (with force that you need), while same part (checked with same gauge) will go hard.
With two soft parts, you dont want this. You dont need one tops forcing another tops - here I mean surface imperfections. It may cause shavings under press and loose fit as result.
Anyway, I would prefer to use aluminium part (head?) as reference. At least you can add one tool (machine reamer) and be sure that your bore is right size and roundness.
So, copper (?) insert should fit inside round aluminium bore, with small amount of force. You want copper part with nice machined surfaces. You dont need big tightness, I would say 0.01-0.015mm shoud be great. In my experience, there is no way to get perfect roundness for copper part after lathe. So some spots will be 0.005 more while others 0.005 less. Not big deal. You want chamfers, both on insert and bore. You want inner step at the back, that works as press stop.
P.S. This is single led light. It needs shelf with threaded holes for mcpcb. I dont know anyone who enjoys making M2 threads in copper. I guess you were talking about brass.
Ok so press fit would be possible but it would be a pain in the. . . The bigger MCPCB would for sure be a good option pared with a nice thick alu shelf.
But it would make later modding much more difficult because you would need to raise a normal MCPCB with different footprint to the correct hight.
Any other ideas to improve thermal propertys by adding copper? If not i will talk with jacky about the Custom MCPCB.
What diameter and thickness would be prefered (3-3,5mm thick and 26 or 28mm diameter so Maxtoch or Manker boards will have the right diameter )? I am not sure about the head diameter. But i expect something in the 40-50mm size.
They are still open for suggestions. But this time we will not have so much influence (they want to get it done way faster).
So i will have to some answeres in hand when we talk. Because there will not be so much forth and back comunication this time.
It is not a BLF project but we still can influence the build prozess a bit.
1.5mm copper pcb over 4.5mm aluminium shelf is what you need.
^ this.
It does not take much to do it right but still so many manufacturers fail to do it. And over-doing that will hardly get you more performance but does increase costs, volume and weight.
We were able to convince Fireflies to make the E07 shelf 10mm thick and I believe the ROT66 Gen 2 shelf thickness is increased. TA got Mateminco to get the shelf as thick as possible in the MT18S and MF01S. I think thick shelf is becoming a good design trend with hotrod lights.
Though I dont mind large diameter thick mcpcb like in the E07 and FW3T. The E07 initial batch despite almost no thermal paste and extremely poor contact with shelf still ran well because of the huge copper mcpcb.
How many volts will the emitter be? Any chance this 95CRI emitter can be made an option?
Both of mine came for sure in mode 12. Which also coincides with your post here (11 in Hex = group 12)
I want one no anno xpl, one reg sst please.
I received my D80v2 (anodized) with SST40 and I discovered that when I go into turbo, the LED immediately shifts to a deep, angry blue, almost purple. It works fine on all other modes up to all-7135 but it doesn’t seem to like turbo. I’m afraid to even run the temp cal. I don’t have a clamp meter to measure tail current.
I’m running a NCR18650GA but I’ve tested it with a few different cells and it does the same thing, though the shift is less extreme with some older cells.
Anyone else experience this?