New WildTrail (former LuckSun) BLF-D80v2 Sale is open.

It is hard to say anything concrete without drawings. We dont know parts thickness and shape, is there place for stop step or no, are there any thin walls that can be damaged, can you add a slide fit edge for easy centering while pressing down and etc.
So next things are common and may not be helpfull in your project.
From the first look, press fit tolerances are more precise than threaded connection. Nowadays all use full profile thread inserts and there is no need for carefull inspection of thread properties for flashlights. You can just check OD of part with outer threads and ID of part with inner threads and this is OK.
For light press fit (preferable and the only right type of fit for parts from soft metalls), you need much tighter tolerances (like 0.02mm max) between two parts - and this might be a problem in mass manufacturing. Nobody wants to add extra operation, buy extra tools and add extra inspection when it is not necessary.
However, new cnc machines (with feedback from optical scales) are very presize and carbide tools wear is so tiny so precision is not a problem anymore.
Yes it is preferable when one part is harder than another. Even not so - usually you have one part that is harder and it is perfect (shape and dimensions), and another part (softer). And first part is target - you dont change it, just need to machine second one to fit it. Sometimes you can use this harness difference for your needs - for example, lower surface quality on softer part will fit well (with force that you need), while same part (checked with same gauge) will go hard.
With two soft parts, you dont want this. You dont need one tops forcing another tops - here I mean surface imperfections. It may cause shavings under press and loose fit as result.
Anyway, I would prefer to use aluminium part (head?) as reference. At least you can add one tool (machine reamer) and be sure that your bore is right size and roundness.
So, copper (?) insert should fit inside round aluminium bore, with small amount of force. You want copper part with nice machined surfaces. You dont need big tightness, I would say 0.01-0.015mm shoud be great. In my experience, there is no way to get perfect roundness for copper part after lathe. So some spots will be 0.005 more while others 0.005 less. Not big deal. You want chamfers, both on insert and bore. You want inner step at the back, that works as press stop.

P.S. This is single led light. It needs shelf with threaded holes for mcpcb. I dont know anyone who enjoys making M2 threads in copper. I guess you were talking about brass.

Ok so press fit would be possible but it would be a pain in the. . . The bigger MCPCB would for sure be a good option pared with a nice thick alu shelf.
But it would make later modding much more difficult because you would need to raise a normal MCPCB with different footprint to the correct hight.
Any other ideas to improve thermal propertys by adding copper? If not i will talk with jacky about the Custom MCPCB.
What diameter and thickness would be prefered (3-3,5mm thick and 26 or 28mm diameter so Maxtoch or Manker boards will have the right diameter )? I am not sure about the head diameter. But i expect something in the 40-50mm size.
They are still open for suggestions. But this time we will not have so much influence (they want to get it done way faster).
So i will have to some answeres in hand when we talk. Because there will not be so much forth and back comunication this time.
It is not a BLF project but we still can influence the build prozess a bit.

1.5mm copper pcb over 4.5mm aluminium shelf is what you need.

^ this.
It does not take much to do it right but still so many manufacturers fail to do it. And over-doing that will hardly get you more performance but does increase costs, volume and weight.

We were able to convince Fireflies to make the E07 shelf 10mm thick and I believe the ROT66 Gen 2 shelf thickness is increased. TA got Mateminco to get the shelf as thick as possible in the MT18S and MF01S. I think thick shelf is becoming a good design trend with hotrod lights.

Though I dont mind large diameter thick mcpcb like in the E07 and FW3T. The E07 initial batch despite almost no thermal paste and extremely poor contact with shelf still ran well because of the huge copper mcpcb.

How many volts will the emitter be? Any chance this 95CRI emitter can be made an option?

Both of mine came for sure in mode 12. Which also coincides with your post here (11 in Hex = group 12)

I want one no anno xpl, one reg sst please.

I received my D80v2 (anodized) with SST40 and I discovered that when I go into turbo, the LED immediately shifts to a deep, angry blue, almost purple. It works fine on all other modes up to all-7135 but it doesn’t seem to like turbo. I’m afraid to even run the temp cal. I don’t have a clamp meter to measure tail current.

I’m running a NCR18650GA but I’ve tested it with a few different cells and it does the same thing, though the shift is less extreme with some older cells.

Anyone else experience this?

Sounds like a bad reflow

Yep bad reflow of the LED, If you keep it on turbo you will burn the LED out.

Contact Luckysun and ask for a new LED?

Any news on 21700 tubes?

Please send me a message if you fail to reach Lucky Sun's / Wildtrail's support. I will be glad to forward this case to Jacky in case you need further assistance.

Thanks; I sent a message over on Aliexpress and got a reply in minutes. Though I don’t have the tools to properly do this kind of work, I’m going to try to reflow the existing emitter. If I can’t get it working correctly, he said he can provide a replacement head. :+1:

You should remove all of the solder paste you can when doing the reflow and use a better grade of solder paste, something like Kester. Part of the problem is that the no-lead formula they used requires a LOT of heat, the emitter may have been damaged thermally during the re-flow process. Eliminating their solder paste may help, merely be not having to reheat it to such a high level. (just be forewarned, the damage may have already been done and would be irreversible)

Update on my blue-on-turbo SST-40 situation: First, special thanks to Dale for walking me through inspecting, dissecting, disassembly, reassembly, and general troubleshooting.

I re-reflowed the emitter (first time doing such a thing) but still had blue on turbo. Nonetheless, this gave me the courage to swap emitters in an FW3A while I waited for a 3V XHP50.2 to arrive.

Now it is working just fine with this new emitter. I also got a second D80v2, SST-40 again, so I can compare the two. I love the sst, I like the xhp. The sst has a smaller, punchier, and cleaner hotspot. And, I much prefer its warmer CCT. I guess I just expected to be more wowed by the xhp. It is brighter, but not as much as I expected. Should I bypass the springs? Driver, tail, or both?

Lastly, one more thank you to Docc for making this a reality!

The 50.2 will want more current than this driver gives stock, it’s really only impressive when pushed hard… like 18-20A hard!

Driver spring is short and copper but tail is ripe for bypass if you use 50.2, do it!

Mine finally arrived. Love the overall feel and colour of the anodising. As mentioned, it has a very chunky battery tube for an 18650. The feel is great though and I’m not complaining, just an observation.

Package got gutted at customs but looks like the light survived unscathed.

You would think since they open boxes all day they would pick a more efficient way :person_facepalming:

That’s the effect not giving a da causes. Maybe when you open boxes all day you’re bored out of your mind and reality, one’s sense of common decency, goes to the wayside.

Jacky is sending me a couple of these anodized lights to review, both in XP-L HI and SST-40…. I’ll do the full gamut on em and get measurements of all the components and such, as well as output and consumption readings. Looking forward to it. Talking to Jacky about the possibility of him doing a run in the 3V 50.2…

Docc? Hope you’re OK, been a while since we’ve seen ya and some of us are a bit worried.