Even though there are so many great lights coming out, I can’t wait for this BLF-D80 Mark II!
@HONDARIDER
The SST-40 is ordered in 5000K (ST-40-WDS-F50-N3501). But we still hope that the sales agent can maybe get the N4 flux bin. But thats not confirmed.
The XPL-Hi is also ordered in 5000K (XPLAWT-H0-0000-000LV20E3).
When i asked here on BLF which CCT is the most prefered 5000K was the clear winner so we did what we could to get you the leds.
The SST-40 was a real pain and gave me some headaches!!! But we were able to order them with a delivery time of ~1 month.
To everyone on the no anodization list:
Do you have any special coating that you are going to apply? Or are you just going to enjoy the natural look and let it patina on it’s own?
No coatings for me. If I don't like the look of the patina, I'll shine that sucker.
I’m leaving mine as is, bit if I like it as much as I think I will, I will get an anodized version also.
Reflector is bigger then c8 right? would the 2mm flat white be a good led in combo with the stock driver?
I can always change the emitter on the XP-L HI version to what I want. The SST-40 Neutral tints are hard to find. I wish someone would do a GB for the warmest SST-40 tint available. Think it is 4500K according to the data sheet. 5000K would be ok as well. If they are 5000K then that is what I will get.
The D80 reflector is a bit smaller than a C8 reflector.
At the moment there is no warmer SST-40 available the (ST-40-WDS-F50-N3501) it the best i could find.
The data sheet is mentioning warmer ones. But they are nowhere listed. Same with the flux bin. In the data sheet you find a p2 flux bin. But good luck finding a 5000K SST-40 with a better flux bin than N4.
Even the 5000K N3 was a real pain to get!
And i am not sure what i will do with my no ano light. But watching some vids and talking with BlueSwordM is making me think of anodizing the light myself. I have alredy everything here. Only thing i would have to buy is the acid and a propper bucket to not have problems with acid sprinkles.
First step polishing the light an then clear anodizing it.
But we will see when its here.
Bare aluminum doesn’t “patina”. It does oxidize, but aluminum oxide is clear…ish, so there’s really no reason to do anything to it. Unless you want to protect it from scratches I suppose, a “hardened” coating of some sort would help there. But if its the look you’re worried about, just leave it alone.
Right, bare aircraft grade aluminum doesn’t show a visible change over time, my first scratch built light looks just like it did when I made it. Reflectors that I have stripped and hand polished also remain unchanged. It would take a lot of exposure to extreme weather conditions to really do anything… look at the back of a stop sign. 
Nice pics Docc! Drool inducing…
Good to know. I’ll probably leave mine naked.
A small pack of silver plated Beryllium copper springs for the driver side. And silver plated phosphorus bronze springs for the tail.
Wow Docc, you really made them serious about the new D80 
Yea, surprised they sprung for these. You sure are making them bend over backwards but I guess you want to make sure the good BLF name is not tarnished. Good job lucky sun for being flexible and bouncing back from the old D80 success. I’m sure they have made some positive contacts along the way with all of the forum members involved.
This is going to be great!
If the fit and finish is also up to specs and wishes this light is a good starting point for future projects!
It shows that LS is willing to give us what we want (good quality lights). It sure takes some patience and efford but if the result is good i am willing to spend some time.
At the moment they are practising the driver spring bypass. It will take a few more tries to get it right. I am a bit pickey about it. But i do not want people having problems because wires comming loose. Or springs not compressing because 2 1/2 coils are soldert together.
And they still have to test the current. We do not want to burn the SST-40. So they have to test if a smaller ledwire is needed to keep the led safe.
@djozz
For what max current should they aim? Max 7-8A?
In that current range, the small BeCu springs for the driver probably don’t need a bypass. Did you mean at the tail, where the Phosphor Bronze springs are being used? Really, in that current range, they could just make it dual springs and still probably be good at the tail too.
But do bypasses if possible! It could be the light that needs no modding!
Docc, thanks, you are the man!
If you truly want “no mod” then it will be just that already. If they do a short Silver plated BeCu spring at the driver and dual Silver plated Phosphor Bronze springs in the tail, it will never be a bottleneck for the stock driver and emitter. It’s only if you ARE going to mod the light that you might need more conductance than those springs already give.