Preach.
True, related to the thread. Just meant not related to my comment. Just thought I’d post it somewhere.
Not sure, never really thought about the heat dissipation of it. Here’s another angle. So ya it’s on its own board down there. Might be a couple other little things down there, can’t remember offhand. It does get hot real quick when you have a full battery.
Did you see my xtar PB2SL post? XD
I don’t want to write the reviewing though I just want to disassemble the stuff lol
I always assume everything is fake by default lol
I wonder that about the emitters in a lot of lights.
Btw I don’t hate this headlamp. Not my favourite but hey it was cheap. And the build quality of the actual flashlight shell, not the electronics but just the host itself, is decent. It’s a step up compared to other wurkkos headlamps I’ve had. I like the way they did the waterproofing. The whole front face with the 3 reflectors comes out as 1 piece, reflectors and all, and then you can see there’s that rubber gasket around the whole perimeter so the waterproofing looks solid if you remember to close the rubber usb-c cap. And i said I wasn’t going to do reviews lol
True. Quality has gotten increasingly better for sure, but you can only do so much with a $50 cap (or closer to $40 thereabouts). A real xhp50.3 hi is about $8 (individually obviously not a reel). The clones are probably $4 or less, but you never know. Wurkkos did make the ts30s with a real Sbt90.2 for under $70. This light reallly needs a buck driver!
I don’t have a known real ~6000k 70cri 3V xhp50.3 hi to compare it to. All I have is 6V xhp’s. If it’s fake it’s a good enough fake that I would need a known real version of it side by side to tell the difference, or some much better testing equipment.
The closest thing I have is a 6V 90CRI 5700K. Its a much yellower phosphor on the wurkkos one…similar to the phosphor on some of the Sanan type emitters…but it’s the low CRI version so of course it’ll be a yellower phosphor. So that doesn’t tell me anything.
It has 4 bond wires visible, my 6V’s have two, but that might be a 3V thing, idk, I have no 3V xhp50.3 hi’s, so that doesn’t tell me anything either.
If you have a known real low CRI 3V or a better eye than me, I had the light open again today and here’s the highest quality pictures I could take of the thing, see if you can spot anything telling.
It looks real, like a 3v version. I think there’s subtle differences between 3v and 6v. I compared it to a 50.3 HI from the Olight seeker 4 a d it’s definitely different.
I just received mine. I like the headlamp a lot overall. The only negatives for me are the green tint of the flood LED, and the fact that you have to scroll through the red LED when you switch modes. The sequence is spot > flood > spot+flood > red > spot, etc.
Turbo is very bright. I won’t use turbo often, but it’s good to have it available. And I’m glad turbo isn’t included in the output level sequence. I wish red weren’t included in the mode sequence.
You NEED to plus minus green over these sofirn/wurkkos headlamps that use a 5000m lh351d. They’re literally unusable without minus green. And not some 1/8 minus green either, you need the heavy stuff.
I have every shade of the zircon minus green, I forget what they translate too as far as the 1/4, 1/8 stuffsm goes, but I know I have the 2nd pinkest zircon over the flood in my hd50, which I think is 1/2 minus green. And honestly it could use a little more. If it was brighter I’d stack another 1/4 on top of that. Usually 1/4 minus green is enough but not here. You lose some lumens but its so worth it. If you lost twice as many I’d still do it. Only thing you can do unless you want to try a tricky emitter swap.
Downside is you cant control the brightness of the flood and spot independently, so with all that minus green on the flood, when you’re using flood and spot together the flood is proportionally much dimmer. But the spot could use some 1/8 minus green or some CTO itself.
Hey thanks Jeff, I hadn’t heard of this stuff before. I did a bit of reading, and it looks like Boaz sells small quantities. So if I understand you, the 1/2 minus green would be the way to go?
How do you attach it to the light in a durable way?
Does the HD50 still have the power bank/reverse charging function? I was surprised how often I used it on the HD20 to charge my smartphone.
(I think the HD20 and H30 are two of the only single-piece headlamps that can also serve as a power bank… Fenix HM75R and HP30R also have the power bank feature but these headlamps are huge with a big power pack attached. It’s a nice feature for backpackers or people who travel light)
