I have those Duracell lights your talking about. It maybe good as back up to your back up light but that’s just me. It starts off bright but the batteries die quickly. I prefer w light with a reflector. As you zoom in you lose lumens. Its not a very efficient light. You’ll be changing batteries every 30 mins if you actually need it on the high setting. If your fine with the low setting maybe 2-3 hours. I have the minimag pro as well. Its much better then the Duracell pack of lights. Much better quality maybe around 90 mins of runtime. But alkalines fall off quickly under load. I used rechargables in it. More power under load. Alkalines have so much internal resistance they waste half their energy trying to get the energy out. Now for powering a clock or a digital display nothing beats alkaline. But for anything thst needs power forget it. But you’ll keep the battery business going. But for $20 I’d get the warsun x65 takes 3aa and can take lithium if you ever go that route. Or the convoy x3 takes 3aa or 26650/18650. There’s also the thrunite 2a v3 archer and 1a v3 and t-10. But alkaleaks really suck. I was hard headed for awhile and still have like 300 aa batteries. Because there like $25 a hundred online. And I can use my lanterns off them during hurricanes. But I switched to NiMH imedion,Duracell, odec, amazon pro. Much better then alkaline could ever be. A 4 pack of duracell rechargables from Walmart for $10 will replace 2000 alkalines.
If your determined on a store bought light. The rayovac 330 lumen sportsman isn’t bad. 3xaa and the 250 lumen 3aaa sportsmen. Walmart hws a ozark trail 600 abd 700 lumen light fkr $20 one zoomable one not. Both take 6xaa I prefer a reflector (or not zoomable).But I suggest spend the $25 or whatever it is on the convoy x3 or the warsun x50 or 65 which ever has fbe new emitter.
My personal opinion is go with the convoy x3 and you can use all the alkaline batteries you wish and if you get get into lithium well it can take those as well. Its probably the most powerful light your going to find in the 3xaa format especially for under $30 there are some powerful 4xaa lights $40-50 like the ea41 the upgrade to the ea4, the thrunite tn4a. They last about a hour on 1000-1100 lumens bit that’s with rechargable aa. On alkaline I got around 15 mins on turbo. They can’t handle a load and overcome their own resistance. I really like my ea41 and would by another same with tn4a hi But I don’t suggest high powered lights if you refuse to upgrade to rechargable batteries. Just won’t get the most out of the light. I’d use alkaline in them during a natural disaster or emergency but on a low mode.
If it is truly S30V, it won’t be a cheap light. That is a $$$ powder metalurgy, sintered stainless steel developed originally for knife making. I don’t even think its available in round bar stock form, suitable for flashlight turning. Standard availability is .25 or less plate stock, and its very hard on tooling…. IIRC. Knives using S30V start around the $60-70 range… FWIW.
You can bang out a million knives in China using AUS-8, 8CR13MOV and sell them for $5-10. Doing the same thing using S30V, would yield production volumes in the ~100s (ball park, if that), and pricing to match.
Since its useless as a flashlight, its more of an expensive tent-spike hammer. A galvainized pipe or a rock would yield the same result. LOL
So why go for an expensive body with crap chips, its like gold plating a water bottle, it may be worth a lot of money in melt value but its a ridiculous thing be made of gold
Yeah, I agree. I was not trying to validate or approve the design mind you… just to some degree discuss materials used, and how this COULD be an $$$ light to manufacture, regardless of the junk internals.
Its nothing more than a harbor freight freebie, dressed up with a bunch of google search buzz words.