I agree with Tom. I doubt that these will give you any improved throw over an S4, especially dedomed, since these are near impossible to dedome cleanly. There many be some developments there in the future, but for now if you need dedomed throw I think the options that will match the "old" XP-G2 S4 are getting harder to find.
In fact I would be glad if this could have same or a bit lower performance than s4…
New xp-g2 s4 2b ded has about 30% lower performance than old one with ugliest tint ever seen on this or any forum 
Nobody tried hot gas on nichia emitters yet(even Mitko). It could work, and worth a try.
Dedoming those D320 vs D280 could differ alot btw, its like V5 vs V6 dedoming, in another topic here i already said that XPL V6 is very hard to clean dedome both chemicaly or electricaly, V5 on the other hand is relatively easy( i ruined not one or two V6s )
Its not like XML/XPG dedoming M8s, those all dedome great
Its realy low indeed, a dedomed S2 1A ( doing 4.5amps) vs dedomed IMPROOVED S4 2B( again at 4.5amps); 185k mcds vs 155k mcds in a C8 host….
The new S4 2B tint after dedoming……well, i wouldnt say its very bad, its altualy good for hunting, kinda greenish with an AR glass
Do we have an Australian enthusiast to order/test some of those Cutter XPG2 emitters ?
When we ( at least EU folks) could arrage to buy a roll( or anything) as a GB
I tried Arrow Europe and Mouser but emplyees dont give a damn about that matter, they only read part numbers….no BLFers arround them sadly
I am afraid it ain’t good even for hunting.
If this is nice to you than we have different emitter taste I am afraid
We should not spam this topic with XP-G2
To return on subject…
Mitko try hot gas de dome on Nichia. I believe it could work…
A little bit of off-topic never hurt anyone! I have a question! What if you used a rose tinted emitter to begin with, like a 2D, 3D, or even 4D tint? Would that be enough to offset the green shift?
DavidEF,
Cree changed production process for all XP G2 bins so maybe some of them could have nicer tint but they’ll all have significant lux drop.
I could chew even that ugly green tint but I can’t chew lower performance. As Mitko said some hunter may like it…
So no point in using new series of G2 any more when they perform same or less than XML 2.
they might be a good choice to change my XP-G2s in my Meteor (first run- S2 1D dedomed)
the green tint makes me use it seldom….
how much whould you think the cd are falling?
Just a reminder, tomorrow (April 23rd) is the last day for the promotion. There is still a few of everything left, but the 20mm Triples are almost gone.
Just built my s2 triple with the d320. Whoa mama. Paired it with the BLF a6 driver. Well… Only because I used my mtn fet upgraded version in a c8. Wish I had been more patient.
So my triple gets about 8.5A at the tail cap using a 30q. What a beast! I’m thinking it’s around 2500 lumens, but I don’t have anything that bright to calibrate my ceiling bounce. Slap in a ncr18650b and it tames it enough for extended use.
The c8 with the d320 and mtn fet is a winner as well. Gets about 6.5A, which I think is around 1600 lumens.
So glad I jumped on this deal
Does your strobe mode act weird? My triple stops the strobe mode on its own after a few blinks. It goes into moonlight or it shuts off completely. Only happens with a high drain cell such as a 30Q.
Its my second build using the BLF a6. The interface is definitely picky. Alot of random forward and reverse changes. Takes a really light tough to be consistent
Mines are here (well 3 out of 10)
Does it behave normally with a non high current battery? It does on mine. It seems that the high amps (15+) used by the 219c’s mess with the driver. It also happens with a driver I swapped in from a Kronos X6. Turbo did not work with a 30Q. It just flashed for a second, then went to moonlight. But worked fine on an NCR18650B. Oh well. :cry:
Hhmm, these all sound very familiar, like the problems I had in developing with the Tiny25 and Tiny 85's. All my problems like that were fixed with adding caps, either stacking a 2nd 10 uF cap to the C1 cap, or wiring a 0.1 uF cap across the MCU, from pin #4 (grnd) to pin #8 (Vcc). Can't say it would work on a 13A based BLF A6 driver, but if I were you, it would be the first thing I'd try. Another fix was adding a gate resistor on the FET gate pin. I use a 12K (FET gate pin to grnd), but I really thought that was only for problems I had with the SIR800DP FET, but for what I know now, it's the only FET I'd use for high amps, ~8A or higher.
If you put the MTN-17DDm NUV in there you'll see the problems go away. Better layout, better parts.
I’m so confused… Where are you getting these driver names from? What is NUV? Where is NUV listed?
I feel like I've had a missing time experience 
New Updated Version
Ahh, ok, missed that. Different design, 13A is shown in the pics but must be a 25. Guess not available in kit form yet? But good chance I missed it, if it's there .
I build it with both 13A and 25 depending on the firmware (some of the pics show the 25). I will get the PCBs and kits listed up next week.
Was wondering what you did there, as opposed to porting those 13A drivers to the 25.