Nichia 519A

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
410

Almost put an order for D4v2 dual channel with 219b 2700k+4500k and then found this thread so… 14 pages later, can you confirm whether the following is the right TL;DR; of the thread so far:

  • 519a can emit more (twice as much?) light than 219b
  • It’s a bit more floody but since it can be driven higher eventually can both overflood and overthrow 219b
  • Tints are generally really good. Mb not as rosy as devoted sw45k lovers prefer but mostly below BBL (for high CRI versions)
  • Greenish tint is observed on 519a 4500k by most
  • Dedoming drops color temp about 1+ level down (i.e. 5700k becomes ~4250k)
  • Dedoming impact on beam profile is FILL ME IN (so far I mainly observed random distortions on the screenshots posted here - donuts, coronas, etc.)

Is it safe to say that 519a is the more powerful and clear-TIR-capable version of E21A (in terms of colour closeness to BBL)? (My D4v2 E21A 4500k is amazing as the pic above confirms but bream looks horrible once I put clear lens on)

411

Can you post beamshots? Please please please!
I’m thinking about ordering one of those d4v2 you’ve tested and curious to see the beamshots first (and yes, I know they don’t do justice).
It also will be interesting to see differences between domed and dedomed versions.

412

> 519a can emit more (twice as much?) light than 219b

30% more is realistic

> It’s a bit more floody but since it can be driven higher eventually can both overflood and overthrow 219b

I dont call it floody, it has a larger hotspot than 219b

it can be driven higher, but that requires changing drivers. If you just swap a 519a into a light, and do not change the driver, it will not be driven harder, except in direct drive FET lights… and then the power delivery is based on the discharge rate of the chosen battery.

otoh, because the 519a is more efficient, it produces less heat than 219b, during maximum output

> Tints are generally really good. Mb not as rosy as devoted sw45k lovers prefer but mostly below BBL

Tint is neutral w dome, around ± 0.0010
the Below BBL happens only w DeDome

> Greenish tint is observed on 519a 4500k by most

depends on time of day. During daylight adapted times it is not apparently green, as sunlight has a duv of 0.0032, whereas a domed 4500K has a duv of 0.0010 or less

> Dedoming drops color temp about 1+ level down (i.e. 5700k becomes ~4250k)

not sure what you mean by 1 level. As a rule of thumb dedoming lowers CCT by 20%, and duv by about –0.0030

> Dedoming impact on beam profile is

the hotspot changes from a round circle, similar in size to an LH351d, to a tighter hotspot with irregular edges, about the size of sst-20 and 219b hotspot

> Is it safe to say that 519a is the more powerful and clear-TIR-capable version of E21A (in terms of colour closeness to BBL)?

yes E21a and 519a have similar neutral Tint DUV. Both have some tint shift across the beam, that would show in the corona around the hotspot with a reflector, or clear Tir, but E21a has the most color change around the hotspot, followed by domed 519a, the dedome 519a does not have noticeable greenish/yellowish corona around the hotspot.

I prefer 519a dedomed over domed, Im not an E21a fan as I come from sw45k, which is still my favorite LED

Here are some of my domed and dedomed 519a, side by side: (duv from Opple may not match other devices, they are shown for relative reference of the lights being compared):
start from the left, domed 5700K followed by dedomed 5700K, etc

413

Put 3x 4500K (from Convoy) into Carclo narrow optic (med/high-ish) settings:

414

So from people who have used their dedomed lights whats the consensus on dedoming method?

Slice but leave some silicone?

Hot pry?

Julienne? Slap chop?

415

I dedome while still hot after reflowing, (or after running the light briefly). I use tweezers to push, lift, and peel the dome off. It tends to come off in one piece when not cold. I also use a plastic toothpic to remove any dome bits that remain attached to the LED die.

this is how Artiet59 does it… imo his QTip technique works very well

there is also a post about slicing (I dont slice)

416

I prefer slicing. (see post above referenced by jon_slider)
A dedomed 519a is often too low in Duv and drops the CCT too much (for me).

With slicing, you can dial in your preferred CCT while getting ~1/2 of the duv reduction.

For example, if you want 4500k at –0.40 duv, shave a 5000k 519a to ~1.3mm or a 5700k 519a to ~1.1mm.
(This data taken with an Opple on 519a emitters from Clemence: R9080. Your results may vary.)

Slicing is easy with a little practice. I recommend an initial “thick” slice to get most of the dome off (~1.5mm) and then taking thin slices until desired height is achieved. A feeler gauge as discussed in other threads works great for this. I did 0.2mm slices and that worked well for making a smooth slice. Warming up the emitter first helps. Wiping the razor blade with a little silicone oil also helps. Worst case, you can always dedome if you don’t like the slice.

Also, a sliced dome tends to work better in many reflectors. Those designed for large domes like XML, XPL, or 351D, may not produce a good beam profile with a dedomed emitter, but work fine with a thicker slice.
For example, I did most of my testing with WK02 hosts that came with a SST-20. I found the best beam profile in these reflectors was a 519a sliced to 1.0 to 1.2mm.

Good luck!
FB

417

The pictures taken for the domed/dedomed 5700K 519A illustrate why I love the domed Nichia. The porcelain is still white, the background grey (I guess it truely is?) The scene illuminated by the dedomed LED shows a remarkable shift to orange/red.

With the A70 MINI I finally got something like a ‘grail LED’: The 5000K 519A. Perfect tint indoor and outdoor. Need to get the product code from Acebeam (thus far no success) and order some.

Edit: Lots!

418

I find that under 5000k, BLACK tends to appear more yellowish. If you want black to look black you need 5000k or 5700k. I prefer 5000k high CRI high LUX light in my machine shop. At home in the bedrooms and bathrooms I prefer INCAN on dimmers. In the kitchen and elsewhere, the 3000k no-flicker LED bulbs from Waveform.

419

I placed an order for a whole bunch of 519a in 4000K, 4500K and 5000K from the Convoy store.

Hope I like them. This will be my first experience with 519a. I got enough to experiment with dedoming them too.

420

I hope you enjoy them as much as I do…

Stock Sunwayman V11r, 520 lumens momentary max, 0.05 low

519a 3000K, 400 lumens momentary max, 0.05 low
.

421

So, I have been using the 573 de-domed and love it! But a friend at work fell in love with the pure white of the TS10 at 5800k and very neutral Duv. So, I built him a T2 with one of my 5700k 573’s, but left the dome on. When I first powered it on I assumed that I had damaged the dome because visually it had a somewhat -Duv, not extreme but it was there and it felt to warm. Measured with my Opple it came in around the mid 5400k range and indeed a slight -Duv.

So, is the normal for the sm573?

422

this domed 5700K Opple tested at 5800K and duv –0.0012
.

this dedomed 5700K tested at 4000K and duv –0.0042
.

423

Finally, I got around to testing the 519a for myself. I replaced the emitters on my FWAA Ti from Nichia 219b sw45k to Nichia 519a sm573 DeDomed. Here are the results:

sw45k:
Max Lumens: 1260
ANSI Lumens: 424
CCT: 4549
CRI: 93.9
Duv: –0.0073

sm573DD:
Max Lumens: 1748
ANSI Lumens: 447
CCT:3999
CRI: 96.6
Duv: –0.0009

The tint is really nice:

Here is a comparative Full Runtime Chart on Turbo:

And here are the first 10 minutes, for greater detail:

424

Thank you very much for the detailed test data

sw45k:
Initial Max Lumens: 30% lower than the 519a
Lumens at 30 seconds: 5% lower than the 519a

both LEDs drop below 200 lumens in the first 40 seconds and then rebound slightly to sustain about 200 Lumens.

425

You are welcome jon_slider.

Please notice that as the dedomed 519a starts off at a higher output and yet slightly outlasts the 219b at high output. If one was to start the two emitter options at the same output level, the 519a would obviously sustain the output for longer. Similarly, if they were put at any level of output, as long as it is the same, the 519a will sustain it longer.

426

can you help define “longer”.

For example, how much longer is the 519a runtime, at the sustainable 200 lumens, than the sw45k?

427

Sorry jon_slider, I did not do any further tests.

428

My order of 519a leds just came in!

Now I just gotta decide what to try them in. And experiment with dedoming them.

429

Last night I installed a 4500K 519a in an Eagtac D25a on the stock aluminum star with stock driver. Not bad. Output was low, which was expected with this driver and no dedoming, but tint and CRI looked great.

Today I tried installing a 5000K 519a into my Tool Ti. This time I dedomed it. WOW!!! Good output, nice color temp, rosy tint, great CRI, dedoming was super-easy!!! :person_with_crown:

I can see why this LED is so popular now.