Good to know about the HID. However, in Texas afternoon sun even higher than 5500k every time I have checked with my own meter.
Get an S2+ with the 4C chip, and stick it behind a TIR to mix the colors better. Thatās about a nice 4500K, and what Iāve called ānice warm sunlightā.
A reflector is too fried-eggy, leaving the hotspot too warm and spill too cold.
Thatās because youāre closer to Texas. lol
Iāve wondered about air conditions and how that must affect readingsā¦around here we almost always have particulates (fine dust if not a host of other things) so crystal clear air and bluebird days are rare. Curious what the parameters were for the group(s) that measured and decided upon this years ago.
Note about my Opple statement/accuracy above. No idea where it came from or why we had it, but in the pile of hoarding junk at the office we found an old reference calibration bulb from Panasonic (with some deprecated but very expensive projector bulbs). Should have kept it but it went away to the recyclers, but I was able to light that up and compare the Opple readingsā¦same low range. That bulb was marked as having over 20 burns on it, if that means anything. We donāt do anything remotely related to light measurement so how we came to possess it is a mystery. Now that Iām contemplating buying a Hopoocolor unit, shoulda kept that bulb.
Convoy has the S3 available with the 519A. I normally prefer a warmer light. Is there any compelling reason to choose 4500K or 4000K over the 3500K?
No, it is a mater of personal preference. With dome on, they are all not pink tinted, and have great color rendering.
I prefer the dedomed versions, because the tint is less neutral, slightly strawberry colored. I do like pink tint, Im not a fan of neutral DUV.
but fwiw, the dedomed 4500K is a personal favorite. It comes out to about 3400K and has, for me, a nicer tint than 219b 3500K, that I find too neutral. Bear in mind the dedome ruins the nice big round hotspot of the domed version. Dedoming makes the hotspot smaller, and not perfectly round.
here are my domed and dedomed pairs:
the duv is Opple data, for comparison purposes, though not as accurate as more expensive instruments.
Not really. Seems the 519A pretty much has a neutral tint regardless of CCT. Only when you slice or dedome them do they become more desirably rosy.
So just pick the temperature you like.
Lots of negative duv options with these emitters.
Here is a sample of what Iāve measured with an Opple and 519A emitters in Wurkkos WK01 hosts.
More details in my 519A slicing post.
FB
Nice work FBsLights. Thanks for sharing.
I made a post in reddit comparing the CRI of several of these emitters and mixes. I did not do a good job of controlling for power levels, though probably they were around 50-200 lumens for all. But take the Duv and CCTs with a grain of salt because power levels can change those:
https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/vbmq8a/color_rendering_data_for_several_519a_emitters/
Direct link to color data: 519a measurements (CRI and TM-30) - Album on Imgur
Emitters/mixes:
519a 5700k domed
519a 5700k dedomed
519a 2700k domed
519a 4500k domed*
519a 5700k-2700k domed mix
519a 4500k-2700k domed mix
Bonus: Osram W1 amber-w1 white 6000 mix āpink w1ā
Almost put an order for D4v2 dual channel with 219b 2700k+4500k and then found this thread soā¦ 14 pages later, can you confirm whether the following is the right TL;DR; of the thread so far:
- 519a can emit more (twice as much?) light than 219b
- Itās a bit more floody but since it can be driven higher eventually can both overflood and overthrow 219b
- Tints are generally really good. Mb not as rosy as devoted sw45k lovers prefer but mostly below BBL (for high CRI versions)
- Greenish tint is observed on 519a 4500k by most
- Dedoming drops color temp about 1+ level down (i.e. 5700k becomes ~4250k)
- Dedoming impact on beam profile is FILL ME IN (so far I mainly observed random distortions on the screenshots posted here - donuts, coronas, etc.)
Is it safe to say that 519a is the more powerful and clear-TIR-capable version of E21A (in terms of colour closeness to BBL)? (My D4v2 E21A 4500k is amazing as the pic above confirms but bream looks horrible once I put clear lens on)
Can you post beamshots? Please please please!
Iām thinking about ordering one of those d4v2 youāve tested and curious to see the beamshots first (and yes, I know they donāt do justice).
It also will be interesting to see differences between domed and dedomed versions.
> 519a can emit more (twice as much?) light than 219b
30% more is realistic
> Itās a bit more floody but since it can be driven higher eventually can both overflood and overthrow 219b
I dont call it floody, it has a larger hotspot than 219b
it can be driven higher, but that requires changing drivers. If you just swap a 519a into a light, and do not change the driver, it will not be driven harder, except in direct drive FET lightsā¦ and then the power delivery is based on the discharge rate of the chosen battery.
otoh, because the 519a is more efficient, it produces less heat than 219b, during maximum output
> Tints are generally really good. Mb not as rosy as devoted sw45k lovers prefer but mostly below BBL
Tint is neutral w dome, around Ā± 0.0010
the Below BBL happens only w DeDome
> Greenish tint is observed on 519a 4500k by most
depends on time of day. During daylight adapted times it is not apparently green, as sunlight has a duv of 0.0032, whereas a domed 4500K has a duv of 0.0010 or less
> Dedoming drops color temp about 1+ level down (i.e. 5700k becomes ~4250k)
not sure what you mean by 1 level. As a rule of thumb dedoming lowers CCT by 20%, and duv by about ā0.0030
> Dedoming impact on beam profile is
the hotspot changes from a round circle, similar in size to an LH351d, to a tighter hotspot with irregular edges, about the size of sst-20 and 219b hotspot
> Is it safe to say that 519a is the more powerful and clear-TIR-capable version of E21A (in terms of colour closeness to BBL)?
yes E21a and 519a have similar neutral Tint DUV. Both have some tint shift across the beam, that would show in the corona around the hotspot with a reflector, or clear Tir, but E21a has the most color change around the hotspot, followed by domed 519a, the dedome 519a does not have noticeable greenish/yellowish corona around the hotspot.
I prefer 519a dedomed over domed, Im not an E21a fan as I come from sw45k, which is still my favorite LED
Here are some of my domed and dedomed 519a, side by side: (duv from Opple may not match other devices, they are shown for relative reference of the lights being compared):
start from the left, domed 5700K followed by dedomed 5700K, etc
Put 3x 4500K (from Convoy) into Carclo narrow optic (med/high-ish) settings:
So from people who have used their dedomed lights whats the consensus on dedoming method?
Slice but leave some silicone?
Hot pry?
Julienne? Slap chop?
I dedome while still hot after reflowing, (or after running the light briefly). I use tweezers to push, lift, and peel the dome off. It tends to come off in one piece when not cold. I also use a plastic toothpic to remove any dome bits that remain attached to the LED die.
this is how Artiet59 does itā¦ imo his QTip technique works very well
there is also a post about slicing (I dont slice)
I prefer slicing. (see post above referenced by jon_slider)
A dedomed 519a is often too low in Duv and drops the CCT too much (for me).
With slicing, you can dial in your preferred CCT while getting ~1/2 of the duv reduction.
For example, if you want 4500k at ā0.40 duv, shave a 5000k 519a to ~1.3mm or a 5700k 519a to ~1.1mm.
(This data taken with an Opple on 519a emitters from Clemence: R9080. Your results may vary.)
Slicing is easy with a little practice. I recommend an initial āthickā slice to get most of the dome off (~1.5mm) and then taking thin slices until desired height is achieved. A feeler gauge as discussed in other threads works great for this. I did 0.2mm slices and that worked well for making a smooth slice. Warming up the emitter first helps. Wiping the razor blade with a little silicone oil also helps. Worst case, you can always dedome if you donāt like the slice.
Also, a sliced dome tends to work better in many reflectors. Those designed for large domes like XML, XPL, or 351D, may not produce a good beam profile with a dedomed emitter, but work fine with a thicker slice.
For example, I did most of my testing with WK02 hosts that came with a SST-20. I found the best beam profile in these reflectors was a 519a sliced to 1.0 to 1.2mm.
Good luck!
FB
The pictures taken for the domed/dedomed 5700K 519A illustrate why I love the domed Nichia. The porcelain is still white, the background grey (I guess it truely is?) The scene illuminated by the dedomed LED shows a remarkable shift to orange/red.
With the A70 MINI I finally got something like a āgrail LEDā: The 5000K 519A. Perfect tint indoor and outdoor. Need to get the product code from Acebeam (thus far no success) and order some.
Edit: Lots!
I find that under 5000k, BLACK tends to appear more yellowish. If you want black to look black you need 5000k or 5700k. I prefer 5000k high CRI high LUX light in my machine shop. At home in the bedrooms and bathrooms I prefer INCAN on dimmers. In the kitchen and elsewhere, the 3000k no-flicker LED bulbs from Waveform.
I placed an order for a whole bunch of 519a in 4000K, 4500K and 5000K from the Convoy store.
Hope I like them. This will be my first experience with 519a. I got enough to experiment with dedoming them too.
I hope you enjoy them as much as I doā¦
Stock Sunwayman V11r, 520 lumens momentary max, 0.05 low
519a 3000K, 400 lumens momentary max, 0.05 low
.