Nichia NV4L144/W144 AME/ARE CRI and output testing

Thanks for your testing maukka!
That 219C 3000K tested great, Ra (94), R9 (70) at only 700mA.

The higher you push the Nichia the greater the CRI.
Where can one purchase these 219C 3000K? I’m looking for 3.

Updated the comparisons:

Very nice! :wink:

144A 4500K R9050 1A current

I would generally agree. I have mixed 219C 4k 9050 in pairs with XP-G3 4 and 5 bin hi cri and I really like the results. Visually there seems to be more contrast.

I have actually moved my EDC to a mixed tint XP-G3 85cri triple convoy S8 setup.

I really like the final results with a 15011 optic, good output with 3000 lumens on turbo and the final tint is somewhere around ~4700k with 1 each 5700k, 3000k and 5000k LED’s. I wish I could have found all 90CRI LED’s but I had to mix in some 80CRI due to availability.

overall the tint shift is virtually eliminated due to the optic and the final light is very pleasing on the eyes which still being bright enough to handle business.

I noticed that tint mixing is even done in the pro level high CRI manufactures, so there must be something to it:

Thanks AEDe, the results is outstanding from R1-15. Maukka also tested the sm453 with more/less similar result

- Clemence

TA, the Yuji ribbon that you link has the warm a d cold leds on a separate circuit so you can use mixing to achieve any desired colour temperature in between. (There was a flashlight that did that too).

It is a bit of a myth that you can make ‘better’ light by mixing different tinted leds than simply directly use the correct led of desired colour temperature.

Notwithstanding that, colour mixing is fun! :slight_smile:

I am not saying it IS better, just that on the surface my tint mixed lights appear better to my human eyes.

Although I was not aware that those strips were on separate circuits, that is really neat actually. I want to use those to light a few rooms at some point down the line.

Now in some cases tint mixing is worse, it takes the right mix of tint to work. I mixed a few 90 CRI XP-G3’s that were fairly close together in tint, the result was not that great, had a bit of a green tint to it.

I think the key is using tints as far away from each other as possible. I like 5700-6000k with 2700-3000k for example.

Just a shot in the dark here, could physical distance between the emitters also have something to do with providing contrast and depth by shading/defining the edges and textured surfaces of objects when tints vary?

Possible but doubtful as the beams are completely mixed together after a few feet and they are only like 10mm apart at the light itself. Plus I do not really notice the same effect with a single tint in the same setup.

Which is a good point, I think the key to tint mixing is it balances out the good and bad of different tints. For example you get the deep reds of a 3000k emitter and the popping blues of a 5700k.

The only single LED I have seen that can match my tint mixed triple is the 9080 4500k 219B. They are very close with the 219B being slightly rosier. Of course if I was able to get all 90CRI XP-G3’s I think that would balance out some. As it is, the 219B just edges out the XP-G3’s in CRI by my eyes but not enough to outweigh the loss in lumens.

The biggest difference is that maxed out the 219B triple gives me around ~1800 lumens IIRC and the XP-G3 gives me over 3000 lumens with very similar tints.

Check these, might be useful:

Added output test to the original post. This is on the new Virence VR16S1 MCPCB plus an aluminum heatsink w/ fan cooling.

I really envy your new IS Maukka :heart_eyes:
Very very useful for all of us. Since now we have the same LED from the same reel, I can calibrate my output measurements to yours. What’s your MCPCB control temp Maukka?
Just curious how this VR16S1 compared to my old 30mm x 30mm CDTP board?



Aahhhhh so that was why I was getting more lumens than I expected on my Haikelite MT01 144AM modded at 1910 lumens, and brightness was even more stable than the XHP50.2.

The forward voltage of 6.14V at 3A is even lower than the XHP50.2’s at 6.22V.

@Clemence, you are a huge help to the community for introducing such excellent LEDs when only OEM used the LED in a diving light, and everybody else doesn’t.

I’ll probably be buying a bunch more of your LEDs and MCPCBs when your 20mm MCPCBs will come.

20mm? Did I spill the news? :open_mouth:

They will come… eventually.

I think. Perhaps? Hopefully.

I don’t think the MCPCB really heats up much above room temp (26-27°C) at the binning point (1400mA) during those 70 seconds it takes to reach it in the test sequence. Will have to verify with thermal camera. Haven’t checked with the old board.

It under performed 23 lm from the rated 1000lm/1,4A. So far only the CRI exceeds the minimum rating.
The 2000K E21A also 3 lm less than specced. Nichia binned it using 10ms pulsed current though

The best I got was 998 lumens at 1400mA when taking the measurement immediately after turning the power on. It still takes a couple of seconds to get the reading.

The Samsungs and Luxeons seem to be above their minimum rated flux though even after compensating for the temperature difference. They bin at 85°C. I don’t like calculating the compensation from Lumileds’s temperature vs. flux graphs with Photoshop ruler, anyone know if they are available in table format anywhere?