Nitecore EC4S disassembly problem

So, I wanted to mod my EC4S, but I couldn’t get the bezel off.

I tried the latex glove method first with no success, then I tried a watch case opener, which slipped, because the bezel has 5 indents (star shape), so there’s no opposing ones. Then I quickly draw and 3D printed a tool, that matches this pattern and used a small steel rod to apply some force to it, but nothing happened. After that, I tried to use a screwdriver with the printed tool and guess what, the flashlight bent the chrome-vanadium screwdriver. Finally I found a longer and beefier screwdriver, which started to work a little bit, then the printed part gave up and started to rotate in the bezel. It was grindy and gave a scraping sound, while it rotated a little bit, I think this is because this light has an enamel-like coating, not anodization.

Now there’s a tiny gap between the bezel and head and the bezel doesn’t move in either direction (also the glass rattles a little). Do you have any ideas on how to get it off or back in place.

Heat it.
Probably glued, or Loctite applied in factory.

True. Nitecore used to glue the threads. Heating to 80-90 Celsius should solve it. Also 2 strap wrenches should do the job once heated.

A little bit of WD40 in that groove you have now will loosen up that glue — sometimes if you work it back and forth it will come loose

> Do you have any ideas on how to get it off or back in place.

boil water then turn off the fire,
put flashlight in plastic bag (w no batteries),
insert head in hot water for a few minutes

use your bezel tool to tighten a little then loosen a little…

once the glue is warm it will begin to let go, but will also clump up on itself… like you have now, where it gets jammed.

So you need to unjam, by tightening a little first… since your photo shows you succeeded in loosening a little.

so far so good :+1:

Once the glue is soft, back and forth a few times should get the bezel to unscrew all the way.

Ugh, sorry to hear about the damage. Hopefully you can salvage it. Yeah, I’m pretty sure Nitecore uses Loctite on the EC4 series. It’s a shame, because it’s completely unnecessary. I love this design. It’s such an ergonomic shape for the hand. And, nice anti-roll properties. It’s a bummer that Nitecore abandoned this design after like 5 iterations with 18650 cells. (EC4, EC4GT, EC4S, EC4SW, EC4GTS)

Anyway, please circle back when you’ve successfully modded it. Would be interesting to hear your thoughts about the result.

Thanks for all the comments.

I’ve printed 3 more ‘sockets’ that I could use and after about 40-50 minutes of repeated heating with a heat gun and rapid cooling, it loosened up, but interestingly it wasn’t glued at all. Instead it seemed like it was cross threaded from factory. The threads on the bezel (steel) are fine, but in the body (aluminium) they look kinda torn.







Just clean up those treads real good and grease them up before putting the bezel back on (the bezel is made of aluminum)

I bead blasted mine and it corrected that outer ring issue the light had

I put a 4000k 50.2 in mine and I left the thermal hooked up —it’s one of my favorite lights —- Turbo does around 2000 lumens , but High does 950 lumens and ridiculously holds around 900 lumens for well over 30 minutes

XHP50.3 4000K/4500K or do you recommend something else?

Sounds good to me—I’m not familiar with that LED —- Is it 6v —- I just reflowed a new LED to the stock board, avoiding that custom shape LOL

Yes it’s 6/12V depending on PCB configuration and I also plan to reflow.

Those threads look rough-cutt but not cross-threaded. Recut ’em if you can, lube, and you should be as good as new.

I’d stick an MT-G2 if I had a 6V one (mine are all 9V). Creamy white goodness…

Love the EC4 series. Got all GTs, plain black, ’though I’d like to have a special edition with the red/blue bezels, just for s&g.

You put in an XHP50.2? The XP-L Hi V3 is a 3V LED, while the XHP50.2 requires a minimum of 6V. Did you also upgrade the driver?

Mine was the EC4S — It had a XHP50 CW already