Got my Nitecore TINI in today, and decided to swap the XP-G3 for an SST-20 3000K 95CRI.
Although the XP-G3 works very nicely in the TIR optic of the TINI (no tint shift problems), i like warm and neutral high CRI white LEDs, so i decided to swap it.
Could have used Nichia 219C, but the 2700K and 3000K tints i have don’t have a tint i like.
Apparently above the BBL, greenish hue compared to incandescent light.
The SST-20 also has a low Vf, so it’s very suitable for the buck driver the TINI has (just like the TIP).
The tint of these SST-20’s are more cozy rosy.
Pictures and comments:
All the parts. The tiny metal rod holds the tiny keyring in place.
The Kapton PCB is unfolded.
The driver flap close up.
2.2µH inductor for the buck circuitry.
Under / back side of the Kapton PCB.
This is where i will apply heat locally, to de-solder the XP-G3.
Found a brass / bronze bushing from a bearing of some sorts, probably from an old printer or (its) electro motor.
I used it as a flat hot surface by sticking it on the tip of the soldering iron.
That’s when i found out it had to have been a bearing, because it smoked pretty bad for a while…
Apparently there was still grease inside…
I pushed the Kapton PCB under the LED down on the brass / bronze bushing with tweezers.
XP-G3 removed. They combine the thermal pad with the minus pad, as you can see.
The thermal path directs the heat to the flap n the left, which transfers the heat to the aluminium shell.
There was white Fujik like thermal goo between flap and shell to help heat transfer.
I put a bit of “Mechanic” brand solder paste between LED and PCB and heated it up the same way i de-soldered the XP-G3.
All went without any problems. :+1:
Re-assembled. Nice. :sunglasses:
Thanks for reading.
(edit: pics re-uploaded)