Just got my EC22. First impression: :+1:
That wheel is the best UI that I have seen in a while.
Waiting for darkness now…
I was able to mod the MT20C from XP-G2 to XP-L. I thought the head was easier to take apart than a Fenix.
The MT20C has been one of my favorite lights due to the Up/Dn button. I’m glad that we’re starting to see some comments on these. This variable adjust dial intrigues me. I’m a little hesitant because it seems the dial might be protruding outward a bit, but I could be wrong. I am likely to get one to try out anyhow.
Just received the EC22 today. The dial is very smooth and has a good amount of resistance. The holster seems to be for a smaller light. The flap barely closes and the velcro does not reach to secure it. Beam is greenish. I have about 15 Nitecore lights and this is the first with a bad tint.
Why so long? (EC22)
Without a tail clicky it would have been nice if they could have made it a bit shorter, at least around 110-115mm.
A few mm could have been saved without the recessed tail.
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They could have made a tail like this:
I guess you could use the recess to install a magnet, but I’m not sure that would work with a light this long though anyhow.
Bummer, and kind of a deal breaker…
Especially knowing this:
Sure, I may be a tint snob, staying in the neutral-warm range. However, I have always loved the variable brightness torches (and ramping as a second choice). This one REALLY appeals.
Nope. Snobbery wins out. Pass.
I’ve been eyeing these for a few days, waiting for someone to mention it here (or preferably a review). Not sure how the dial would feel to use, I might just get another swm - apparently the swm’s are in stock at fasttech
How far is the dial rotated to go from minimum to maximum?
Overall rotation is about 270°. From OFF there is 20° until some resistance, 20° for the click and the rest (230°) is regulation.
Seems good to me.
I really like the wheel as a user interface. It is very intuitive. New users just grab the flashlight, turn the wheel and adjust brightness. (Some people try to push the non-button in the middle of the wheel first. It should be designed less buttonish.) Definitely better than multi-clicking one or more buttons.
The wheel to me feels much better than most brightness adjustment rings that are hard to find without looking or that are difficult to rotate (sticky, thin). The wheel can be easily felt and operated in total darkness.
If the light would be shorter my thumb would not be exactly on the wheel.
The amount of friction could be okay to not accidentally activate the flashlight in a pocket.
I wonder if I got this right: During the first two operations the LED stayed off for a bit of rotation after the click. I wanted it on Ultralow but it did not light up at all. That went away after a few operations. Maybe the driver learns the forward voltage? That would be a cool feature.
At lower brightness levels the edgy spot from the crenellated bezel and a darker ring inside the spot are both strange. At least against a white wall.
Could you please further explain this statement? You’re saying the light needs to be this long (128mm) because of the rotary switch?
Wouldn’t you just hold a shorter light so you’re thumb is at the switch? . Like this…
For example my V11R. To operate the rotary ring with thumb and forefinger I have to clamp the light with my index finger to counter the torque of the ring. Or I add my ring finger and bend the thumb and forefinger much much more. Quite a muscle effort. Feels like eating with chopsticks for the first time.
For the longer EC22 I can use all my fingers without any effort, even when turning the wheel. Could be 4 mm shorter, but cutting 1” off the tailcap and I would not like it that short. YMMD.
Sorry for being off topic, but is this a Wowtac with a 18350 tube?
I guess I mentioned above, but I wish Nitecore could make an adjustable light in the 18350 shape! 
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Yes it is!
Wowtac A3S with the Convoy tube (Jaxman tube also fits) I’m using an Aspire 1100 cell.
A real gem of a shorty!
I see they have a larger light with the rotary dimmer:
A different dimmer wheel, maybe better.
The knurling on the wheel looks aggressive in this photo but milder / slightly different in all the other photos.
Looks pretty nice.
It has an XP-L HI and 31.8 mm head, SMO reflector, forward tail switch, 310m throw distance.
I started a thread on it: NITECORE P26 Tactical with Rotary switch / infinitely variable brightness control
P26… Interesting light, but it is not going to be picked up by many, if any, for actual tactical applications since the tail switch only activates the light into the mode or level of the rotary switch. If you want strobe it looks like you have to be sure the rotary switch is in strobe position, and the same goes for if you want max output.
The light is not a tactical light in any way, the name is all BS. Having a tail switch does not make a light a tactical light. These people should be embarrassed, no ashamed, to call this a tactical light.
I was actually starting to get interested in the P26, because I like continuously-variable output and the dial looks prominent enough that I might be able to use it whilst wearing gloves.
Then I saw that it had strobe on the dial. There is no way I am buying a light where I can accidentally get strobe if I overshoot Turbo. Back to the drawing board!
I agree a true tactical light needs to start on high no matter what you had it on last time you used it, and cannot depend on if you remembered to set the memory or the rotary dial.
I thought the same about the knob for wearing gloves and also agree about the strobe being on there, I didn’t like that either.
For about $3.00 more (both with deals price) the new Fitorch M30R is looking WAY better for tactical.
Direct to Turbo tail switch… no matter what.
Not quite as good as L16/L30 but a LOT less money.
I just got this light. Not entirely enthused about it, the control is fairly small and fiddly. I have the Nitcore SRT9, which has a multifunction ring including an intensity ramp.
The best such light I’ve ever had is the Surefire Titan T1A, which has the perfect UI: just twist to go from 0 to 100% in a smooth ramp. It’s easy enough to use (and not overly bright enough) to be my 6-year old’s “I’m afraid of monsters in the dark” bedside light.
I haven’t tried the HDS Rotary, though, that many rave about.
I’m looking at those direct to strobe switches on the tailcap, right next to the turbo switch, and I’m thinking “nope, I’m guaranteed to strobe myself with those sooner or later!”
I had the same thought as Strobe is not a priority for me, and I thought “too many strobe paddles!”
But at least the paddles are momentary, you have to hold it down (long press) for strobe to latch on steady. So the worst you’d get if bumped inadvertently is a few quick flashes.
Also I really like the mechanical lockout selector ring at the tail. I had a Bushnell tactical flashlight that had that same system and always thought it was neat.
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Bushnell:
