[NLD] Imalent SR16 - Beamshots and Comparison (+ a question about camera settings)

So after I got the chance to try it out during a flashlight meet-up, I pulled a trigger. Boy does it deliver! Makes me giggle every time I turn it on.

Beamshots

Comparison

So I took out my two most powerful (up till now) flashlights to give a little comparison. I run into a problem of the SR16 blowing them out of the water, which made it really difficult to set the camera settings to be accurate for both the SR16 and the other lights. The SR16 would always appear too bright or the other lights too dim.

Below I have 2 sets of beamshots.

First, where I set the camera settings according to what my eyes saw, in an attempt to accuratly compare the lights (which meant making the SR16 picture a bit dimmer):


I feel like my adjusted beamshots are pretty accurate to what it looked like in real life.

Below pictures with the same camera settings for all beamshots:

(Here to me the SR16 seems brighter than in real life)

When such a high difference in brightness is at play, is it okay to manually adjust the camera settings (accordin to what you see on screen) to accuratly show the difference in how flashlights shine? What’s your opinion?

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That first picture with the sunglasses! LOL!!

Glad you like it. Keep an eye on the LEDs for burnouts I guess. It’s a monster light.

IMO both are fine to me. I know enough about cameras/settings to understand the context that it might not look true to life, but it’s consistent with the camera, and so the same settings are a useful frame of reference for me.

But someone who doesn’t know camera settings (aka most people) will likely be better served by you adjusting the settings to make it more like what you see IRL.

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Your problem lies where you can’t see the full brightness of the SR16, this is why looking at the photos you think it’s too bright when its not actually. The glare of so much light from a wider beam is causing your eyes to adjust, this limits you from seeing the range. I tested this by getting my GT90 and shining it on trees at 600m and turning on the SR32 at the same time, now that GT90 appeared to be half as bright as it was on its own. Very similar to leaving a camera on auto settings, it’ll adjust so the foreground isn’t overexposed which in turn limits the range.

Get the TS30S Pro and do the same thing and test whether you experience the same effect. Same thing happens with the Wurkkos TS32, use the spot channel and then activate the flood channel, now the spot beam looks half as bright. Tested the lumens and it’s not as if the TS32 can’t handle both channels, it’s just the effect it has on our vision.

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