I consider the High CRI Skilhunt e3a a superior option to the Low CRI Olight i3e
If it was a 2-mode light, in my opinion this would be the best keychain light on the market.
I like using an old Eneloop (with high internal resistance), on these little twisties… I dont need 80-100 lumens… for me 20-30 lumens is more than enough for close range…
a few more e3a to i3e comparisons:
Major advantage to the Skilhunt, is that it does not turn on when pressing the head sideways…
I’m with you there, 30 lumens is a good value for a lower mode, but a high is also nice to have…
I think it was you who posted a link to changing the sense resistor to lower the output? I’m tempted to pick one of these up and give it a go, perhaps if I see them on aliX with a good deal.
You’re right about the lack of thread slop, in my opinion Skilhunt did a fantastic job on the threads.
I did collect info on sense resistor change for the Olight, thanks to info shared by another member who had Skylumen do a modded Olight for him with High CRI LED and lower output.
both those expenses could be skipped by just buying the High CRI Skilhunt and powering it with an old high resistance Eneloop
I have not bothered to try doing a sense resistor swap myself… I hope you share your results 
Here is a pic of a modded Skilhunt with resistor swap output info:
99 cents for the “Borwn” host, if you can provide a new email address
Really is a no nonsense light this one. I’m fine with one mode, no faffing about, nothing to go wrong. Sometimes I notice it looks a little dim and drop another IKEA Ladda in it.
agree
solid little package
High CRI right out of the box
tint is not green
head does not wobble
great question… I dont know how to measure Internal Resistance… but would also like to learn… maybe someone can teach us
the way I know is because the light is less bright when I measure the Lumens on my light meter.
I do not know…
I do not run my rechargeable batteries down to empty. I just swap them out when they go below 3.7V (if LiIon), or below 1.25V (Eneloop).
Since I dont use disposable batteries, runtime is not something I think about.
With rechargeables, I basically have unlimited runtime.
I dont wait until my battery is empty… I just swap in a fresh one when they go below half full.
I make a point of checking battery voltage on a regular basis.
Been using mine for 3 years now, on my keychain. Personally I don’t think 100 lumens is necessary for such a light. I’d be happy with 30-50 lumens for the use cases I need it for . But other than that it has been stellar.
Seems a few of us here with that opinion, wonder if Skilhunt would do a 4000K 519A 50lm BLF special…
E3A (high cri) are sold with beaded lens. May be it’s later time change or depends from a seller/region.
It is beaded, but it’s very slightly beaded. From a distance you won’t notice those beads.
Here how the E3A’s lens looks from different angles.
Welcome and thank you for posting
true, the stock e3a lens is slightly beaded
the light is great, even with the stock LED, stock lens, stock output
changing the LED, lens, and output resistor are just things that Can be done, but they are not required
a few more pics in this album
Hi all,
I have bought several High CRI E3a in the past, always very satisfied with them.
I gave a few ones as gifts, and kept two for myself.
I’ve just found out that they do not work if I feed them with Varta Power 1000 mAh. I mean: they don’t light up at all.
The same batteries work flawlessly in other AAA flashlights (e.g. DQG) and other devices.
My E3a work fine using Eneloop 800 mAh batteries, primary AAA, and primary lithium.
I have tested the internal resistance of my Varta Power 1000 mAh : slightly higher than my Eneloops, but still acceptable (around 100 mOhm vs 50), therefore it doesn’t explain their not operating my E3a.
Any clue Re. this strange behaviour?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Welcome back to BLF!
I’d guess either length of the cell prevents the head from contacting the body, or it’s the reverse polarity protection.
Going from memory, I think the E3A has physical reverse polarity protection (shoulders either side of the positive battery contact to ensure the flat negative side of the cell can’t make connection).
I’d assume the nipple on the Varta’s is insufficiently proud of the body to make contact with the driver.
Thanks gravelmonkey for your quickreply and assumptions.
I have therefore measured the different batteries’ exact dimensions.
Here they are in mm, shown as “Battery model / Body length to “shoulders” / Body length including nipple” / nipple “height”
Varta / 43 / 44.4 / 1.4
Eneloop / 42.7 / 44.2 / 1.5
Duracell primary / 43 / 44.2 / 1.2
Energizer primary Li / 43 / 44.2 / 1.2
Do these measurements match your assumptions?
good measuring info
it shows the Varta are 0.2mm longer
Apparently that small extra length is preventing the light from closing far enough for the body tube to make contact with the driver.
the solution would be to make a ring with bare wire, 0.2mm thick, and put it in the head, around the plastic clip that holds the driver. Pushing the wire into the gap of the body around that plastic clip.
I have not tried this and I think it is a bad idea, because the wire might touch something it should not and cause a short circuit and ruin the driver.
here you can see the contact for the body on the driver. note there are many other expose solder joints that the wire could short to.
Suggest you just not use Varta in E3a
