I don’t think your going to find any 20mm aluminum triples. The Carlco optics are about your only choice. I don’t think you have to worry about them melting either.
One LED in a large reflector will always out-throw three tiny reflectors.
I don’t know what the specs are for them, but the Carclos are pretty good with heat. I have them in a number of triples, including one where I drive the emitters in parallel at 3.5 amps, and no problem on high for a minute +. I think that the plastic is designed for the heat.
EDIT: Plus, the copper cap is pretty heavy/thick, relatively, so it should draw the heat. I’m pretty sure the copper has better thermal conductance than air.
Hello, just a quick question for you experienced modders.
Which pcb board with LED below should I go with to fit inside my Niteye Eye10?
Noctigon 3XP MCPCB & CREE XP-G2 R5 2B LEDs from Int-outdoor for $16.82 Shipped + 2-4 Weeks shipping
3-Up Indus Star (R5) Cool-White from LED-Supply for $15.83+$5.99 shipped + 3-5 days shipping?
I really don’t want to wait 2-4 weeks for the noctigon, but if you guys think its worth it over the 3-Up Indus star then I will just pull the trigger and wait the 2-4 weeks.
I plan on getting the Carclo 10507 with tritium slots for $18 as well, just in case one day I have the urge to drop an additional $25 on some B@rts tritium vials. Hope its ok to have cpf links…
Looks like I will be doing the Ohaya suggested Copper cap gap fitting from Home Depot as well
Actually, I’m not even sure you’ll be able to run a triple on one CR123. Not for very long anyway.
Well, I’m actually using a AW IMR 18350 which shows a max continous discharge of 6A. The infinitely variable driver in my Niteye Eye10 with the AW IMR 18350 battery has to be around 650-700 lumens when turned to its highest setting, seeing as it is almost as bright as my Fenix TK-45 on Turbo mode which is 760 lumens.
I’m guessing the driver is pushing at least 2.5A-3A to the single XM-L U2 in there now. Don’t see why it can’t push around 1A more or less to each LED in a 3x XP-G/2 configuration. That would be at least 300-400 lumens per LED at 1A just guessing, plus seeing that the Eye10 has a infinitely variable control ring, means I can just use it around 50% brightness or less around 95% of the time, and when I need a nice burst of power, turn to it’s highest the other 5% of the time.
Just wondering if I should get the Indus Star 3-Up 3x XP-G R5 or this Noctigon 3x XP-G2 R5
I’ve had a lot of flashlights in the past 7 years, but the Niteye Eye10 is by far the best flashlight I have ever had or seen for its size. As with all things being the best, the only thing you can do at that point is to try to make it even better(mod)!
Left to Right: Rubber Ducky, iPhone 5, Niteye Eye10, Fenix TK-45
Well.. the Eye10 puts out about 660lm on an IMR cell. Thats with an XML. So you might be seeing 800lumens with 3 XPG2. But it will throw a lot less and actually it wont seem much brighter.
Also, you need a lathe or Dremel to open up the head.
Funny timing, I just ordered a Nichia NVSL219AT-H1 4500K, 92 CRI, B10 Bin - 20mm Triple Star from illumination supply about 1 hour ago to do this mod in the meantime, while I am waiting for the noctigon 3x XP-G2 to arrive. Crazy timing for your post, and nice find as well!
i also ordered 3x Cree XP-G2, Bare, Q2, 7C4 Tint (~2900K) 90+ CRI and this 20mm Triple XP-G MCPCB, Parallel to solder the XP-G2 leds to.
That should hold me over until this noctagon 3x XP-G2 arrives in about a month from now…
Running to the mailbox to see if mine are in! 
I ran down to the mailbox and lo-and-behold mine are here too! Woohoo!
Mine should get here by Monday morning
comfychair, looks like these Noctigons have the thermalpad leveled with the contact pads (unlike single Noctigons) - am I right?
My very first triple re-flow. I was very very careful. I used a Kapton mask to lay the solder paste just so, very carefully located all the emitters on the board, put solder paste at the pads, and cross-over’s for a parallel set-up. Re-flowed em, everything went beautifully. No worky. Big 32650 put nothing on the board, no spark, nada. So, I got a Panny PD. Oops! Sparks! Burned finger. lol
I had put one of the XP-G2’s on sideways, shorted the board flat out. Back to the re-flow, pop that one, check the bottom for clearance, drop it back on the board. YES! Wired it back up, sitting on a 1” wide x 1/4” thick copper bar a foot long. Hooked it up to the Panny PD and baboom! Nice wide hot spot! Lovely! Carclo 10107 clear narrow optics. Put the DMM on it, the 3 XP-G2 R5 2B emitters are pulling 9.42A in direct drive.
Now I have to build a host for it….
@comfychair: that is awesome, I want to do the same with triple nichia219. Is that the convoy s3? Is it just a simple, file the pill flat? And does that host allowed for protected 18650s?
I have an S3 host waiting for my Noctigons. I’m glad to see that a whole lot of shimming won’t be needed. I figured the S3 would be perfect since it has the shallowest reflector of all the Convoy tube lights.
Carclo triple optics is 6mm high. S3’s reflector is 11mm high.
I thought they were 10mm high?
It would be ideal if no shims were needed as this would make it a very simple build. File the pill flat + drill a hole in the center.
Yes, S3. That isn't the S3 pill in the pics, that one is from... who knows. But it's taller than the brass S3 pill. S3 has the same thread as a P60 pill, just FYI. The AL pill would have still needed a spacer to move the driver farther down the tube, or else it would need a spring on one end or the other of around an inch long. I don't have any protected cells but given how far forward the new assembly sits, if you can't fit the longest protected cell in here you're doing something very wrong.
Stack height of the Carclo + 3XP is .308", or 7.8mm
How does this affect the beam (bits of the reflectors sitting behind the bezel)? Less throw, less spill or less of both?
Do you know how much the light loss is?
Don't have it assembled yet. There's some extra meat in the bezel inboard of the o-ring that doesn't need to be there, I'm planning to bore it out.
I’m loving the Noctigon boards, they’re so neat and clean cut, unlike the rather sloppy edges in the masks of the SinkPADs. Maybe it’s just because I take Macro images, but the Noctigons are far nicer in my opinion. The red and gold combination is also a winner in my book!