Noctigon K1 info / review

Thanks for the pics on spring bypasses with accompanying results Tom. I got the 90 version for big bro backup to my W1 and will now have to do the bypasses! This means I will have to dig out some equipment as I literally boxed up everything and stored it some time ago now. Maybe I’ll be able to put everything away again afterwards… lol

I, uh, seem to have a weakness for Anduril based lights. Thanks TK! (I think!) hahaha

Hah Dale! Nice to see you back! Hope all is well.

Hank now has the W2.1, dropped the W1. I emailed Hank though and he is selling me a mounted W2.1 even though it's not listed. He is also selling me a couple of the K1 drivers - it's a good design, something I can tweak the regulated amp level on by swapping one resistor.

I saw that resistor mod for your greeny meanie, nice research! I’m content to leave my pencil beam K1 as is but the 90 could use some intake modification for horsepower. :slight_smile:

Crazy times my friend, crazy times. Covid got my Aunt in August. My wife is an LVN and deals with tons of chaos and insanity every day. Me? Just getting old and cranky it would seem. Been modding, just not flashlights. Learned that Nitronic 60 SS is a bear on the lathe! Should probably stick with reading. 71 books down in 6 months, running out of library…

Kudo’s to Hank, great work on his part! He keeps making em I’ll more than likely have to keep buying em. Addictions, what’s to say?

I hope it won’t be too much of a bother when things switch to Anduril 2. There are some changes which people might trip over when going back and forth between major versions, but I think the newer design is better overall.

Basic use is still the same… click for on/off, hold to change brightness, double click to go to/from a bright mode. Many of the extras are the same too… same battery check and candle, etc. But there are a bunch of other differences which tend to pop up with deeper use.

Me, I’ve mostly been enjoying the improved sunset timer and the new memory timer. But I’m expecting a bunch of justified confusion when the new version starts shipping. It’ll take people a while to get used to some of the changes. And it’ll take people (including me) a while to get old lights updated. I still haven’t decided if I’m going to reflash my entire collection or just a few specific items… because that’s a lot of work.

Oh boy! My memory may not be up to it.

Tom, I dug out stuff I haven’t used in months and bypassed springs. Couldn’t find any 20 ga so I crammed 18 gauge in. I see 22.4A at start on a freshly charged 30T that shows 23 mOhm IR. My light box shows a start of 5600 dropping fast to 4900 then slowly to 4600 by 30 seconds, at which point the heat sink area is burning hot! Should help light up coyotes st 400-500 yards… :D)

Yep, 22 amps is pretty good. I still go back and forth with my lumens and maukka lumens. My conversion factor, as originally calibrated, is 0.34, but for maukka calib, I use 0.3. So the difference is about 12% lower.

Dunno if you are a Haikelite fan, but the HK90 came in for me yesterday and it's a triple SBT90.2, ~100 mm head diam. Almost a dead-on size match to a Shocker. Other nice thing it's a triple 21700 battery tube, runs Anduril. Looks like the same driver as the HK04, and the HK04 driver uses a resistor low FET circuit for the low channel (About 0.35 amps) and double high power FET's for the high output channel. Also has a huge SS bezel, and weighs a ton of course - Haikelite has always liked metal

My posts on it:

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/63335/144

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/63335/147

Was hoping for more throw, but for stock it does about or close to 750 kcd, as it's rated, but it's one big hot spot for sure.

I recall I got over 500 kcd from a Shocker on 3 de-domed XM-L2's, but that was on a modded buck driver.

Would you guys think this light is the best in its class?

The K1 is about as good as it gets for a single cell, still portable thrower. It's really a different light with different LED's.

Not sure what you would compare it to, but the performance, quality, and of course Anduril with advanced switch AUX LED support makes it unique.

I thought so. I dunno why I never decided to get a k1. I heard it was a bit top heavy tho. Does it feel balanced to you?
The new fireflylite t9r would be it’s closest competitor. But it has a smaller head so most likely will get out thrown.
How much did you guys pay for the k1? Is there a coupon or discount anywhere?

I think it was around $135 with the 90.2, could be wrong with my memory and all.

Wow Tom, triple 90.2’s, sounds pricey right off the top! I had to pay about $50 each for the loose I bought awhile back. That’s one of the things I like about Hank, willing to be cutting edge, not greedy about it.

My Shocker is doing a little over 11,000 with triple MTG2’s so I’ll let it continue to hold that category’s spot on my shelves. Unless of course Hank has something up his sleeve I don’t know about…

When I got Maukka’s test lights a while back I rebuilt my light box so it has no multiplier, using filter sheets from an LED monitor. I ended up a little under but at least I have a straight reading and know without doubt I’m not exaggerating numbers. Folks will believe what they want of course and that is fine. I always used the light box as a reference point to my mods anyway none of it has ever been carved in stone. So, to bring Old Lumens (Justin) back into all this… it is what it is.

You are right, I have a usb a to c Charger, Not a usb c to c charger. I was just confused about what each one is, thanks Tom E

Tom! You pointed me at that big HK90 and I mentioned it to Manxbuggy1 and he couldn’t resist! Ordered it straightaway! Always out for max power, that boy!

Thank you for all information

So I was reading Tom E’s mods on the K1, green?

Is there anything to do to up a ‘regular’ K1 W1/ W2.1 ?
Or is it limited to the 650kcd?

Thanks, great reading guys !

All depends on the amps. from what Hank has been telling me, the driver is not custom tweaked for each LED, so I suspect it's running 4.9 amps. So for the W2.1, I think 7-8 amps is the range -- have to check in the LED thread. I ordered 2 K1 drivers and a W2.1 LED mounted on a 32 mm MCPCB - basically replacement parts.

One plan is modding a BLF GT with the W2.1 and using the K1 driver (piggyback it in), I'll have to see when I get the parts and time.

Cool! It's an animal light Actually this morning I did a tear down, not complete yet, but enough to see what's goin on:

  • single MCPCB with 3 pairs of wire connections
  • so 3 and 3 wires from the driver, looks like 20 AWG wires
  • same driver design as the HK04, as suspected: twin high powered FET's, resistor/small FET low channel
  • the reflector is some what trimmed down from what the Shocker reflector was, but it's still a mass chunk of alum. Almost like they copied my Shocker mod of reflector trimming ()
  • really weird stuff - there's a copper plug used in the middle where the screw holds down the reflector - the plug is hollow like a pill, and over the screw head they filled the hollow area with thermal grease, and capped it with a thin alum plate. I'll post pics in the HK90 thread - it's weird, never saw anything like it and don't understand how that all helps much. It's not classic potting really. I could understand using thermal grease between the copper plug and alum, but they didn't - the contact points were bone dry.
  • I ordered mine from Neal with a discount code he gave me (asked him), in sand color which is more brown than lighter sand

Interesting. I know that Hanks driver in the K1 does a very good job of supplying power to the outrageously hungry 90.2, yes some tweaks can help but it’s already doing a really good job.

I’ve gone the multiple wire multiple FET route before and in the end found it really made little difference. My 17 emitter mod with a Q8 as a host had wires galore and 4 drivers, with issues blowing the 7135’s. So eventually I just ran the single base Q8 driver with a better MOSFET and it does about the same numbers. Gotta be pulling a ton of amps but the one FET seems to handle it well. 8 Samsung emitters, 8 XP-L HI, and a single 3V 50.2.

I love my Noctigon lights, whether left stock or tweaked. When Hank announced the K1 I just knew I had to get one! I think my original one is the White Flat, very tight fat laser like beam profile. Then the 90.2 took everybody by storm and I had to have another! :slight_smile: Is there a next?

I don’t use built in chargers so I’m considering removing the charging board and making a copper filler to carry the current, I am betting the amps will go up if I do that. I put the 90.2 in one of my CU/SS X6’s and it can put out over 6000 lumens from an 18650 25S. If I remember right it was doing 24A. Have to dig stuff back out and take some readings. I normally will keep the charger but use it outside of the light. With better chargers able to do 3A to the cell directly and allow me to monitor temperatures while charging it’s just easier to pull the cell and go that route. (for me, of course, YMMV)

JFTR, it pulls 23.8A from the same 30T cell with the charging circuit removed. Not much difference really so the throughput of the charger is very efficient.

Is this still in reference to the K1 SBT90? I don’t use internal charges and was curious when you said you thought removing it and adding a a copper plug may increase the amps. If so, you had pulled that thing apart quick and tried it! :smiley: just awesome how you guys just tear things apart and try to improve. also cool to hear Hank has engineered everything pretty thoroughly! love my emisars / noctigons!

Thanks for all of the awesome info you are sharing here.

TomE, thanks to you too!

In messing with this K1 my driver came loose (because I spring bypasses with 18ga no doubt). So I found skinny little 22 ga leads going to the 90.2. Obviously thats enough by the readings I got but I have this thing about not leaving well enough alone so I refitted it wit honkin big 16 ga leads! D) Now it does 6200 lumens at start, quickly dropping to 5900 and then slowly creeping to 5700 before it was too hot to keep running.

Edit: That’s with the charger installed. Cant do anything about making that copper bit due to weather.