Noctigon KR1AA is available

i went to build an emisar 3 channel and noticed there is not uv option. will there be an option to add uv 365 in future? i wanted to build white red uv. ty

sorry if mentioned before. this thread is huge

You can’t have UV with the plastic TIR optic, it blocks all UV light.

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Maybe. There could be a mode for that, if there’s room. I’ll need the black-to-color-to-white ramp to make the user-defined color patterns work though. The color pattern animates continuously, but if the user presses the button, it goes into ā€œoverdriveā€ until the button is released. This was originally used for lightsabers, to produce a ā€œclashā€ effect when hitting something, but it can also give an interesting effect for light painting.

To be determined.

Probably a ā€œwhiteā€ mode, a stepped color mode (r, r+g, g, g+b, b, r+b), a smooth color mode, perhaps a hidden second copy of the above (same UI, different colors) so you can assign different colors to different strobes and such, a random color mode, maybe a warm-to-cool auto tint mode… and some UI modes which bypass the channel modes entirely and just control colors directly.

It allows saving the channel for the ramp mode, the blinky modes, and each strobe group mode. So if you want a red candle, a pink bike flasher, a white party strobe, a variable color tactical strobe, blue lightning, and white aux battcheck… that’s a thing it can do now.

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I wanted the same build, there might be an option in the future, but it will not have aux on the front, the optic blocks UV so it is drilled out and uses a small OP reflector instead.

The front AUX might not be there though, the reflector is too big for the holes in the aux PCB.

yeah i understand many plastics filter uv rays. but i saw somewhere glass tir lens. wouldn’t that work? if it was glass? idk, maybe i read the description wrong and glass tir doesn’t exist

edit*
found what i saw
43mm

34mm

There aren’t any glass TIRs in the right size (that I’ve been able to find, 10mm), and also there are plastic TIR lenses meant to be used with UV (-A, B, and C), they’re usually made of silicone.

Using a reflector is just a cheaper alternative to a custom TIR while keeping compatibility with a ZWB2 filter.

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reflector makes more sense now being the huge difference zwb2 filter makes.

i can’t wait!

@ToyKeeper I see you posted a new 3ch firmware, is that one for the ā€œ151ā€ model code? Or does that matter?

The emisar-d4k-3ch firmware is only for model number 0151.

The details might change, depending on if Hank wants any more changes made. For now though, it has 8 channel modes plus another 7 for RGB aux.

  1. main 2 LEDs only (8/16/16 wiring) or LED 4 only (16/16/8)
  2. 3rd LED only
  3. 4th LED only (8/16/16 wiring) or main 2 LEDs only (16/16/8)
  4. all 3 channels (equal amounts)
  5. 2ch blend (3rd + 4th LEDs, 8/16/16 wiring)
  6. 2ch blend (3rd + 4th LEDs, 16/16/8 wiring)
  7. 3ch blend (HSV style)
  8. 3ch auto blend (red-warm-cool style, led4-led3-main2)

Modes 1-5 are enabled by default, and 6+ are hidden.

The user can set a channel mode for ramping, blinkies (battcheck), and each strobe group mode. The ā€œhiddenā€ ones are only hidden in the main ramping mode, and I recommend turning off as many as possible so it’ll be easier to switch between the ones which remain. Like, enable only modes 1 and 5 if you have W1 or a color on the main 2 LEDs and warm/cool white 519A for flood on LEDs 3 and 4.

I’ve only been able to test it on a RGB model, which isn’t really what it’s intended for. The RGB model is 0152, and the proper firmware for that isn’t available yet.

It’ll show voltage colors during use on the button if you have a RGB button. It also supports a single color button, but it doesn’t show voltage and I haven’t been able to test directly since I don’t have one with that type of hardware.

This build is also the first to use the new ā€œsmooth stepsā€ feature. It rounds off the edges in stepped ramp mode, and when turning the light on/off. The user can enable/disable the feature, but it’s currently hidden deep in a menu… Advanced UI → Ramp → 10H menu → Option 5: 1 click for smooth steps, 0 clicks for hard edges. It’s on by default.

While getting this build ready, I made some API changes which will require fixing every other light… so I plan to do that soon and then publish a whole new batch of builds. The ā€œsmooth stepsā€ thing should work on everything with a 16K or bigger MCU (attiny1634, attiny1616). Old 8K models could do it too, but would need other features turned off to make room.

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Thank you!

Another question, when you say the RGB model (152): the triple channel I have is:

  1. Main: Two SST20 red
  2. W2 Green
  3. W2 Blue

But, it shows a 151 model code. So does that mean that when you make the 152 available, the 152 would be more applicable?

Yes. You have the 0152 hardware, but the firmware doesn’t exist yet so it uses 0151 firmware for now.

In the mean time, the current 0151 build should be nicer than the earlier 0151 build it shipped with:

https://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril2/anduril.2023-08-28.emisar-d4k-3ch.hex

Er, also, for anyone who tries it… could you let me know if your LEDs 3 and 4 go in the correct order when changing channels? It has been tricky to confirm the order, to make sure the firmware’s channel order matches the web store’s channel order. If those aren’t right, I may need to swap the two 16-bit channels in firmware to put them in the right order.

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I put on the 8/28 build - they do cycle as you wrote in your earlier post. However, (with my RGB) the W2 Green channel and W2 Blue channel (only) do not ramp up/down. With all the channels on, I don’t see those same (W2 Green and W2 Blue) ramping up/down either - only the two SST20 red ramp up/down. Same with the ā€œmode 5ā€, where the W2 Green and W2 Blue are on together - it will not ramp up/down.

I tried to take a video but it is kinda garbage.

That’s very strange, and not what I see on mine. Definitely needs more investigation, since it shouldn’t be doing that.

When cycling through the modes with Ramp 3C, does it go red, green, blue, white, blue+green? I’d like to confirm that’s the order it uses. Mine does red, blue, then green… and I’m not sure if it’s because Hank swapped LEDs 3 and 4 on the MCPCB, or if it’s because the firmware has the two channels mixed up. It should be RGB, not RBG.

When swapping modes (3C): Red, Blue, Green, white, blue+green. Here is the order:
Screenshot 2023-08-29 at 2.54.05 PM

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Thanks, it sounds like maybe the firmware needs to swap its internal definitions of LEDs 3 and 4.

I’m still trying to figure out what would cause blue and green to not ramp though. If it worked in channel modes 4 and 5, but not in modes 2 and 3, it would make sense. But all four of those modes aren’t ramping the blue and green LEDs, I don’t know what would cause it.

They ramped when using an older firmware version, right?

Correct, the prior firmware, the ramp was normal on all channels.

Do you remember the version of the prior firmware? I’m guessing either 2023-08-05 or 2023-07-28?

I put those up in case it helps:

https://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril2/anduril.2023-08-05.emisar-d4k-3ch.hex
https://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril2/anduril.2023-07-28.emisar-d4k-3ch.hex

I still have no idea what would cause blue+green ramping to stop working. Even if the enable pins or PWM pins were swapped, it should still work in channel modes 4 and 5.

An early version had a couple pins swapped, so some channels could turn on but not ramp… but even so, it only affected the single-channel modes. When all LEDs were on, the swap didn’t matter.

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I have a bad habit of not writing down what it shipped with, only the model code… So, I don’t remember what it shipped with

With that said, the 8/5 version you posted, just flashed it - the individual channels ramp up/down as they normally would.

Curiouser and curiouser. I tried the 08-05 and 08-28 builds on my RGB D4K, and ramping works on all channels on both builds.

In the single-color modes (channel modes 1, 2, and 3), are the other LEDs completely off, or do they light up a little?

Ok, I have no idea what happened. I re-flashed your 8/28 3ch build, it works like it should - ramps up/down on the individual channels. So sorry, I guess I did not have something set up correctly? Or bad flash?

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