There is a spacer ring in the position, it needs to be removed to fit the pocket clip there, I assume this ring was not removed before installing the clip?
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Correct. Thank you!
Given the body is glued to the head, i foresee doing firwmare updates pretty difficult given how hard it will be to align the pogo sticks to the flashing pads (if they even reach… given the extra length they need to deal with the body now glued to the head)?
From what I’ve gathered, the long-necked flashing tools sold by the Freeman & GCHart are long enough to reach the flashlight pads with the head & tube attached…
to stop the clip from spinning, maybe a little superglue between the clip and shelf on the body.. (remove the O ring first, until the glue is dry)
My KR1AA arrived today and I wanted to share a few observations.
The pocket clip has noticeable play, including both rotation and some side-to-side movement, even with the tailcap fully tightened. The retaining ring has been removed and the washer remains in place, so this does not appear to be related to assembly.
The switch has a very soft actuation with little tactile feedback and no clearly defined click. It also sits relatively flush with the body compared to the KR1, where the switch is slightly recessed and more prominent to the touch.
One additional behavior, likely related to Anduril rather than this specific model, is that the AUX LEDs do not activate immediately after the light is turned off. There is a delay of several seconds before the AUX lights come on. I disabled post-off AUX battery usage as I have on other lights, which transition to AUX mode immediately; this unit instead turns fully off and then enables the AUX LEDs after a short delay.
Very disappointing- I have 7 other Hank torches and love them all but should have waited on this one as it needs refinement.
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Does it seem like it’s using a timer filler in place of batt aux? Like “ok, batt aux…wait, bat aux disabled…uh, let me uh…oh yeah, normal aux!”
Yes! That is exactly what it seems to be doing. It is about the same amount of time that the battery aux would kick down to the regular aux.
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It might be possible to stop the spinning clip by adding an extra o-ring. That’s how the FW3A did it.
Congrats on your new light.. sorry for the poor clip stability experience. A captive ring clip will never be as secure as a screwed on clip.. We are spoiled by our Zebras clips 
maybe superglue the clip to the body (remove the O ring first)
that sounds like you turned off one of the new POVD features, option 3 or 4 of the POVD menu, instead of turning off Option 2 of the menu
you just need to turn off Option 2 and then the Aux should come on without delay (red arrow, bottom of chart)
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I tried adding an extra o-ring and it just bulged out of the side and then split. As you say, there is up/down play as well as the rotation.
@Hank_Wang , there is a reason the optic “chip” is a daily FAQ. It’s because the look in my photo below isn’t something anyone expects to see on a $40 + flashlight, it’s a manufacturing fault if these things are snapping off like that. I had remnants of broken plastic inside the head of my light.
Thanks for that info Jon that is exactly what was exactly what happened.
After spending more time with the torch- The switch is terrible- Soft with no feeling to it at all.
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I made a video of the clip movement: Noctigon KR1AA clip : r/Anduril_Flashlight.
The clip has a bit of play. Even with the tailcap fully tightened, it still moves slightly when you press down on it. The clip can also rotate, it doesn’t take much force at all (less than pressing the button). According to discussions on BLF, both issues might be fixable by adding another O-ring.
So far, neither of those things bothers me in real use. I’m also not sure yet whether I’ll even use the clip - I generally prefer most of my lights without a clip anyway.
Unscrewing the tailcap and swapping the battery is hassle-free, the clip doesn’t pop out or anything.
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When mine comes in, i’m gonna toss it in a clamp and bend it inward a bit. The rotating should be ok though, considering the light is generally concentrically symmetrical…as fir anti roll, slipping a shrink tubing over the functional part of the clip or the body might help keep it from rotating or marking up the body
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that is not normal, suggest you ask Hank for a replacement tail:
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I think the clip issue can be resolved. It is an extremely weak clip, much to springy for real use I would think but I am not a clip user- Just leave them on as I am a full time fidgetier. The ergonomics are fantastic and it feels great in hand.
I have reached out for a resolution to the button issue.
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I hope Hank can resolve the issue. I too, will likely be using the light clipless, with the magnet carabiner as the primary form of carry. The D3aa allows karambit finger ring style deployment with ease if access to the button, but the KR1AA should prevent accidental activation if carried on the belt loop. Hopefully my magnet comes in the complementary orientation to the Olight Olink standard, otherwise I’ll have to use the emisar one with the (unfortunately) slightly weaker magnet
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Dude, your light is SCREAMING to be olive drabbed. The black hardware looks slick
**also…it must be cool flouro lighting…but it looks like poo also LOL…Could you light it with a higher CRI? It seems to be missing some deeper red or amber tones. The indoorslighting always seem to impart a cooler/greener tint to everything when paired with AWB…
