Much better, but still looks a tad green/yellow tinted…I hope it turns out to be more chocolatey. If not, do you think baking the parts (after I break the glue) would make them a bit darker?
I definitely would not call it chocloately, more of a bronze but maybe even a bit of a blend of a yellow?? I don’t know, it’s hard to explain haha! Chocolately was more what I was expecting when receiving it, but I got used to it quickly. I haven’t really had a lot of time to play around with it yet though. Stupid question, does this use Anduril 2?? It seems like the settings are a bit different than I’m used to it in D3AA’s when in advanced setting.
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As far as I’m aware, yes, it uses Anduril. What seems different?
It might help to do a Version Check on both lights, then check the changelog to see what changed between releases.
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Fireflies manage it, but they have side switches. It must have been covered already but the Anduril lockout is enough and mechanically locking out the V2 has been a design headache. The clip and ring look to be designed slightly thinner than the gap to allow full tightening for a definite contact.
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Based solely on the 7/7 flowchart, one major difference is the POVD (Power Off Voltage Display) subsettings.
But yeah, what Toykeeper said…TK kind of knows the author of Anduril 2
I disagree.
The v1 KR1AA clip is completely secure and doesn’t rotate at all so long as the tailcap is screwed on really tightly.
for long term use I find captive clips to be better than screwed clips. I’ve occasionally had screwed clips where the aluminum threads stripped. That doesn’t happen with captive clips.
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Mine spins really easily, and exhibits the up and down movement mentioned by others. And it is screwed hard down.
AccurateJazz shows it in a Reddit post.
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“Sum-body come git’er…”
Thank you for that. Low moonlight single and double press being the same threw me off (I miss the 2nd press being brighter) I’ve also had a few times where I press and hold to ramp up and release and press to ramp down, but it keeps going up instead. Not every time, so I’m leaning on that being me getting used to the button.
fwiw, if you set manual memory, the 2H from lockout will give that brightness
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This makes lockout mode so useful and majority of the time my DA1 is in this mode.
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Any idea why the head is glued to the body?
Someone wrote my thoughts, so I’ll just quote them here;
I received my V2 KR1AA today. I ordered bronze color, bronze metal bezel and clip, and SFT70 3000K.
Some observations:
- Clip
- For a completely cylindrical light like the KR1AA, the clip serves an important function as an anti-roll device. If it is too lose, the light might roll off a bedside table or other flat surface.
- Mine spun quite easily out-of-the-box. I didn’t test it, but I think it might still have had enough resistance to not roll.
- Any spin on the clip can cause extra wear on the anodizing where the clip touches the light. Personally, I prefer when my clips do not spin at all.
- Modding clip to slightly reduce spin:
- I was able to increase the friction to further reduce spin by slightly modifying the clip.
- I bent the ring downward slightly by pressing it against the edge of a desk.
- Then I gripped the clip in plastic-jawed pliers at the top of the curved portion and pressed the clip into a flat surface to slightly increase the angle where the top of the clip meets the curved portion.
- The result of these modifications was:
- slightly better clip grip on whatever it is clipped to.
- slightly wider topmost portion of the clip so it can slide over my pants leg easier.
- Since the ring now sits slightly tilted in its socket it presses up against the o-ring. This creates additional resistance and slightly reduces the spin.
- I also replaced the o-ring above the clip with a slightly thicker one. This made it harder to screw on the tailcap but greatly reduced the spin. It took a lot of trial and error to find an o-ring that was bigger, but not so big I couldn’t screw on the tailcap all the way.
- NOTE: This is probably not practical for a stock V2 KR1AA as it makes changing the battery too difficult. However, it works for my light as I special-ordered mine without glue.
- The effect of these mods is not perfect: the clip still spins. However, there is much more resistance than before. It’s not going to roll-off a table or move with normal handling.
- It’s also not a great clip. Even with modding, retention isn’t great. The clip material is a bit too thin and springy. I thicker, stronger clip would be better. I loved the clip on the D3AA. Too bad the KR1AA’s clip isn’t as good.
- For comparison, both my V1 KR1AAs have absolutely zero clip spin. In the V1 KR1AA, the tailcap can clamp the clip firmly to the body tube. There is no gap and it holds very tightly so long as the tailcap is screwed in tightly enough.
- I was able to increase the friction to further reduce spin by slightly modifying the clip.
- For a completely cylindrical light like the KR1AA, the clip serves an important function as an anti-roll device. If it is too lose, the light might roll off a bedside table or other flat surface.
- Switch Button
- Unmodded, I think it has about the same resistance as the V1 KR1AA.
- I tried to mod mine by inserting a 9x1.5mm o-ring between the boot and the board. This was very successful in dramatically increasing the resistance in my two V1 KR1AA.
- Unfortunately, something must have changed with the internal design of this portion of the light. Adding an o-ring of various sizes inside did not noticeably increase the resistance. Even removing the nubbin for a flatter one did almost nothing.
- NOTE: It is possible that my metal button might be a different shape from in my V1s. My V1s both have the trit slot, while my V2 does not.
- At least with tonight’s efforts, I was unable to meaningfully increase the switch’s resistance. This is not good as to me, it does not feel strong enough to prevent accidental activation if carried loose in my pocket.
- Unfortunately, something must have changed with the internal design of this portion of the light. Adding an o-ring of various sizes inside did not noticeably increase the resistance. Even removing the nubbin for a flatter one did almost nothing.
My initial impression: I prefer the V1 KR1AA over the V2 because:
- V1 clip does not spin at all
- It is easy to modify V1’s button for much stronger resistance.
- This is my biggest problem with the V2. Since I was unable to mod the high resistance switch I wanted, I’ve already experienced 2 accidental activations and it has been less than a day! As-is, I would not consider this a viable light for how I EDC without using lockout. My modded V1 KR1AAs have experienced zero accidental activations due to the high pressure needed to activate them.
- However, I just got the light and might find a better mod to increase resistance. With the V1, it took me awhile before I found the right combo for massively increased switch resistance.
- I find it more convenient to change batteries at the head than the tail. The tailcap is smaller and harder to grip than the head and when unscrewing the tail it is necessary to work around the clip.
- I think it likely this is why the clip is easy to rotate. It’s intentionally designed that way to make changing the battery at the tailcap easier. It’s ok, but not great due to the concerns I mentioned above about the clip.
- NOTE: If you want to change your batteries at the head, you may special-order your KR1AA from Hank without glue.
- I do not need the ability to do a full mechanical lockout so do not benefit from the V2’s one new feature.
- SUGGESTION FOR HANK: V2 should ship with clip installed.
- The V2 currently ships without the clip installed. This is not a good thing, because anyone installing it might not notice the ring filling the clip slot, try installing the clip on top of it, and experience a malfunction.
- It would be better to ship with clip installed. Most people probably want it that way. And if someone does uninstall the clip and forget or not notice the ring for the clip slot, the light will still function properly.
Hopefully, Hank will fix some of these issues in future runs of the V2 or perhaps offer the V1 for sale.
Side note: bezels for the V2 KR1AA do not fit the V1 KR1AA. The threads have a different pitch.
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Nup, they’re not fitting.
How can I remove the glued head? Rubber vice grips?
To have two different moonlights in lockout you need to set different floor levels for smooth and stepped rampings.
Or set manual memory for some level higher than floor, as ToyKeeper said.
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Not too sure what you mean, but if it’s along the lines of shutting up about this light, no.
Had it by the bed last night, switched on but wouldn’t switch off. Loosened tailcap to turn it off.
Today, aux lights on, no on/off. Dead light apart from aux.
Just revert to V1 and be done trying to lock this design out on the tailcap.
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What do you mean by they’re not fitting?
“Sum-body come git’er…”…finish the lyrics…“she’s dancing like a str…”