Noctigon KR1AA is available

The race is on, then!

And - WELCOME!

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Just though I’d mention, @ToyKeeper is on to something about using parasitic feedback current drain as an uber low firefly of a firefly drain. In off state, the LED’s are actually lit, but imperceptibly so that I cannot see it directly, it has to be in my periphery. It is so faint that it is basically meaningless, starlight would drown it out.

If you can bring yourself to be patient enough to relax in a visually pitch black room and let your eyes rest for a few minutes with no light, you might be able to see the faintest of glows using your peripheral vision. For me, it’s barely a neuron’s (i’m being dramatic, but yes, one synapse) worth of register that would be visible with NO other visible light source…

***edit: for me the light essentially has to be almost point blank, given my aging eyeballs.

****edit 2: perhaps a professional camera with long exposure in such a dark room could capture the accumulated light, my phone can’t seem to do it.

*****analog viewfinder only, no digiscreen, NO INDICATOR LIGHTS NOR PERIPHERAL BRIGHTNESS, the LED only to eliminate any source of light contamination.

*****sft is harder to discern than ntg, might not be lit at all, can’t tell

That TechnoGlow is good stuff by all accounts. It’s very easy to mix and no time constraints as long as the sun is kept out and bright white lights are off. Flat surface is essential.

For a trit slot I’d probably use a blunt hypo needle and med syringe, and premix the stuff in a bottle cap or similar. The resin is by Vida Rosa (Clear Hard), lower viscosity and no shrinking. Can always top dress and add the final layer after curing the main bit.

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sorry for your switch failure

did you try this:

very nice, congrats!

Terrible photo I’ve posted before but illustrates the effect of photoluminescent powder and UV resin in a tririum vial slot:

I used a toothpick to “scoop” tiny amounts into the slot at a time. Avoid air bubbles, ensure it’s perfect before blasting it with UV.

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Guys which 14500 to get from Aliexpress to not get a lemon? I just realised, that I need 2 more for kr1aa :slight_smile:
Mike

Received my blacked out V2 today from Hank. Everything works perfectly and no switch issues. Disappointed the head is glued even though I requested it not be and Hank said it wouldn’t be. Oh well. NTG50 5k is nice. I have two V1 from Jackson and they all work great.

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I don’t think I’d trust Aliexpress batteries. For this light, you want some K10’s from a reputable retailer, eg Liionwholesale

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I have INR14500 3A and 10A from reputable seller nearby.
3A is enough?
Flat top cells will work?
Mike

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3A is only enough for the top of the ramp. Turbo pulls about 18W, which can be up to ~6A.

Vapcell K10 are the best 14500 cells for turbo performance. If you care more about runtime and rarely use turbo, you can use the F15 (1500mAh, 3A) instead.

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Are You sure about the turbo power? I see Jackson jlhawaii has the driver as a spare part and it’s 6V4A, so 24W and a bit less than 8A from the battery

Edit:
Either the replacement is more powerful or that’s a typo as in the full light description he writes 6V3A, so 18W like You said

Too much powerful numbers…I’m gonna stick with NiMH for the kr1aa’s…

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My Matt black KR1AA NTG50 4200K arrived after 18 days. Amazed at how small it is. The finish at first felt weird to me now but now I like it. SS bezel is a must I think. I posted earlier that I usually don’t run clips but this is a true deep carry clip so will keep it on. It does rotate freely so it’s kind of anoying. If it had a ratchet click then it could double as a fidget toy :). Tail switch is good and responsive. I was Comparing this my DA1 NTG50 5000K, I do like how it is much floodier for edc use. Vapcell K10 from convoy fits no problem.

Edit. I tried the mechanical lockout and it doesn’t take much twist to do. I notice when I tighten again there is a bright flash. This is normal correct?


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Some bumper action


I wonder if Hank could’ve gotten away with 6 or 8 flats like a bolt head for better anti-roll? I get that the clip could function as such, but the clip gets in the way of battery changes…

**p.s., that backlighting isn’t sunlight, it’s the KR1AA in 3000k SFT…

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Just a level 1/150 on similar form factor models, Top is the brightest, bottom is the dimmest.

1/150 comparos

Lowest brightness comparos and beams


Zebralight reference NTG vs SFT
Settings



V10 lightly beamed 5 minutes ago, vs Kr1AA SFT

Tldr, this kr1aa in sft is possibly one of the dimmest lights I have, and gives the SWM V11r a run for its money. I wonder if the lume x1 driver would go EVEN LOWER…but this thing, in terms of overall output, goes lower than my Zebralight h53fcn

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Yes, that’s normal.

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Your D3AA doesn’t really look like it’s at 1/150. Hank sets a higher smooth ramp floor AFAIK because true 1/150 is extremely low on D3AA.

On my KR1AA with NTG50 2700K at 1/150, the brightness is lower than a TS10 and roughly similar to a D3AA around 4-5/150.

Try manually setting your D3AA to 1/150, it should be noticeably dimmer.

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Tell me if i did something wrong…

1c for on
7h for config
Release at 1 blink
1c for floor 1/150
10h for config
Release at 3 blink
1c for stay at floor after 1h
1c for off
1h for 1/150.

If I did that all properly, it’s def brighter than the sft kr1aa I have on 1/150. What you’re probably seeing is the cool white off the blue shop towels, in additon to below:

I allowed auto exposure so that the viewer could get a baseline of RELATIVE brightness, each of the lights is actually dimmer than is seen in the photo, even with the locked settings in the last 3. I had my phone screen turned all the way down, and compared what my screen viewfinder looked to what I saw with my naked eyes. If you can tonight, turn your phone brightness ALLL the way down, let your eyes adapt to the dark, then view the photos again. You’ll see that it makes a pretty big difference…

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**latest pic added


Okay, seems like it really depends on the LED type.

My DW3AA with NTG35 1800K at 1/150 looks about the same as the KR1AA with NTG50 2700K at 1/150.
But my D3AA with a mixed 519A is way dimmer - even at 5/150 it’s still dimmer than the KR1AA, and at 1/150 I basically have to look straight into the TIR to tell if it’s even on.