I have to say the H52, H32 and SC52, SC32 were my favorite body tubes with the ribs all the way down the body. The look and feel is perfect and many options in the headband as the grooves are the right size for the silicone loops.
1 Thank
I agree. I do like the look of the SC64, but I do miss the extra ribbing that youâd get on older models. I have to wonder if they reduced them to save on costs of manufacturing. Would sure be cool if they did a limited edition with an older body style featuring the latest emitter choices.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
ANYWAY, sorry to everyone for this momentary hijack of the Noctigon thread. Back to your regularly scheduled programming! The KR1AA looks really sharp. I really donât need another 14500 flashlight, but⌠very tempted.
4 Thanks
Well, do you need a multi fuel (14500 and NiMH) one, that can hold above 150 lumens for 2 hours? 
1 Thank
Thatâs some impressive runtime going on there.
Iâve got a few dual fuel AAâs⌠the Acebeam H16 and Thrunite H20. But those are headlamps, so⌠
So many different UIâs⌠which is why I like sticking with Anduril (so much configuration fun). But then, as we get older, these mental challenges help keep the brain young. 
3 Thanks
I wish⌠It just makes me keep up on my reading skills⌠to read again and again the documentation⌠and search skills to keep finding themâŚâcause I forgot where i put them last go roundâŚ
4 Thanks
The tail e-switch means it needs 2 electrical connections at the tail end, instead of just 1. So it has an inner tube and an outer tube. This makes things tricky, and pretty much any light with that design will tend to have similar issues.
Itâs not an issue when the e-switch is at the front / driver end of the light⌠because then it can simply connect to the switch with a wire.
That pic, with the ribbed sides, is a new H52⌠the 2014 version. The old H52 from 2013 had smooth sides. Then in 2015 and on, they went back to smooth sides. I guess the ribbing wasnât popular, so they only did it for like a year before going back to smooth designs.
So, funny thing about that⌠The ZebraLight UI is why I got into making flashlight firmware. It bothered me that ZebraLight needed so many clicks to do simple things, like going from ~10 lm to ~15 lm would require 16 clicks. I tried to talk to the ZL folks about ways to improve this, and they blew me off. So I just made my own instead.
As part of that, I made a clone of the ZebraLight UI, called âDarkHorseâ. Itâs in the Anduril repository. So with a bit of work itâs possible to use that on almost any Anduril light. And Iâve been meaning to replace the simple/advanced UI part of Anduril with a full set of different UIs people could choose from, including darkhorse as one of the options.
16 Thanks
Fascinating. Iâd not seen an earlier model of the H52, so I just assumed the ribbed version was the oldest. Very cool to learn it was made for only 1 year. So this thing is rare!
3 Thanks
Sacrilege!
3 Thanks
Sick!!!
4 Thanks
How do you know if the memory has corrupted and how can I check on mine?
Thanks!
Usually itâll be pretty obvious. Like, the settings wonât be how you left them, and in some cases the ramp might not even work.
Itâs pretty uncommon though. Eeprom corruption requires a really unstable power source which generates a lot of electrical noise. Can typically avoid it by cleaning the contacts and threads on a new light, adding lube, and trying to make sure the lube stays off the electrical contacts. It should be just on the threads and o-rings.
1 Thank
Really good to know, thanks.
I am very jealous of that light!
1 Thank
thank you..
I wish there were more Raw or Silver KR1AA available.. I hope Hank will make more of them.
I was lucky to pick up these two:
They are very special.
3 Thanks
Yeah, I really like the silver ano version. It looks almost the same as bare metal, and has the same benefit that scratches and wear wonât really be visible since itâs the same color underneath.
I have a slight preference for bare aluminum, especially if polished, but silver ano is almost as good.
1 Thank
Is the KR1AA raw alu or silver ano in the end? I wouldnât want bare aluminium due to reactivity and softness of surface but clear anodisation would remove both those shortcomings
V1 (only sold for a short time via jlhawaii) was raw aluminum.
Later versions are silver anodized.
The reason it is anodized is to allow tailcap lockout to work. The anodizing is otherwise unnecessary.
Reactivity isnât generally an issue unless you are worried about it conducting electricity. Aluminum oxidizes extremely quickly and then stops after a very very thin layer is formed, so it doesnât rust away.
How quickly? According to a quick web search, about 100 picoseconds. Itâs almost instantaneous. And the oxidized layer is aluminum oxide, also known as sapphire, with a hardness of 9 on the Mohs scale. The protective layer is very thin so it can still be scratched, but it re-forms immediately when exposed to air.
I have bare uncoated aluminum lights over a decade old, and they show no sign of wear. They still look brand new.
2 Thanks
This is what I thought too, but then I started reading comments that raw aluminium makes your hands black. Are things like aluminium ladders typically raw or clear anodised?
Things like aluminum ladders are typically used while doing relatively dirty tasks with dirty hands or gloves, and stored in dirty places, and when you touch them you get dirty. They may look clean since theyâre shiny, but theyâre typically covered in gunk.
A better example would be kitchen aluminum foil. Iâd eat food wrapped in foil⌠but wouldnât want to eat food served on a ladder which has been used for construction and stored in a garage.
1 Thank