Did the switch o-ring mod to my four KR1AA lights and I am very pleased with the results. It feels almost exactly like my TS10 light. Nice firm tactile click and sounds like a clicky. Much improved. I have a Harbor Freight kit I bought for like $10 I think and used o-ring 009 that is ID 7/32 OD 11/32 1/16 thick. On one or two of my switches I had to fiddle with it a bit to settle in and get the retaining ring to fully secure but the end result is much much better.
To be honest the picture makes it look way more rosy than it is in person. It definitely is rosy compared to the SFT70. Itâs still a very nice beam and color to me. I do prefer the SFT though.
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thatâs actually just about how the ntg50 4200k looks to my naked eyeâŚ
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thank you for the very helpful info
I agree comparisons, especially in photos, can make tint differences stand out much more than when just using a single light source
I think your side by side comparison on the ceiling is very useful for highlighting differences in tint
it also helps to hear your first hand impression that the rosyness is less exaggerated in actual use by itself, when not making comparisons side by side with the SFT
thanks for another data point.. I think I notice rosyness more during the day, than at night.. maybe because my brain is comparing to daylight, whose tint is less rosy, so the difference in tint shows more obviously in contrast to the less rosy tint of daylight
I dont notice rosyness as much at night, maybe because at that time my ambient light is warmer, so to my brain a cooler color temperature looks more blue than rosy
there are definitely a lot of changes to how my eyes see different tints and color temperatures, at different times of day or night.. And also big differences when I compare two LEDs such as SFT70 and NTG, that have large variations between their tints..
comparisons make variations more obvious, and photos tend to show even larger tint differences, or even more exaggerated and oversaturated, than I see with my naked eyes
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So, @Hank_Wang, when will we get TiCu KR1AA?
Even at night, when My eyes tend to appreciate rosiness a bit more, I find the rosiness of the NTG super noticeable. Itâs not in the least bit visually unpleasant on its own, (like harsh greens or cooler blues) but mentally it just looks kind of weird. Neutral pinkish grayish purple, as it were.
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It looks different to different people, of course, but I find it doesnât look rosy in person at all. However, most other LEDs look really unpleasantly green. The greenness isnât so bad for cold white, because it makes the beam look a bit closer to a neutral CCT. But at neutral CCTs, the greenness looks pretty bad in my opinion.
So as a general guideline, for 6000K or higher, a bit of green is tolerable, but a pink tint looks weird. For 4000K-ish a pink tint looks good but green is icky. And at 5000K, something closer to zero duv looks better.
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Very helpful to hear your tint thoughts in relation to color temperature variations.. that rings true to me, I think I tolerate greener tint at 6500k but really prefer more rosy tint at 3000K
Recently started experimenting with an XHP50.3 Hi 5000K LED that started out at Opple 3 DUV 0.0076, which I perceived as slightly greener than I would prefer, even for use in daytime.. (pictured on left):
On right, I added a strong minus green Zircon 802 that reduces output 25%, but moved the Tint down to duv -0.0062, which to my eyes has almost no noticeable rosy tint (when Im not comparing it to something with greener tint)..
Im quite happy with it at that level, despite the lumen penalty.
it helps to hear your thoughts about low duv at different cct as Im debating 5000K but dont want it to be overly rosy
I have a 4200K NTG whose rosyness I barely notice, and find it pleasant, but hearing your comments, I may find similar rosyness at NTG 5000K closer to excessive.
That is why I have been considering the FFL 5009R 5000K, whose duv is not as rosy as the NTG version
much appreciate everyones comments and insights on the perception of rosyness at various CCT
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I got my KR1AA today (NTG50 5000k)
I had concern about the rosiness, however for my eyes it is perfect.
I love it already that creamy pearly white with a very nice beam transition between hotspot and spill.
Canât wait to take it out for a walk tonight.
I order this custom color so it is like a burning cigar with grey bezel and red aux led.
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@Hank_Wang When will you restock the DA1K? I wanted to add one to my last order but the colors I was interested in were not available (Green, Red).
BTW, I would be excited to see the Midnight Blue option on more lights if possible.
Thanks!
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thanks for the very useful info!
11/32â OD x 7/32â ID x 1/16â is:
8.73mm OD x 5.56mm ID x 1.56mm thick
Great to hear that size is working well for you.
That is very close to 9mm OD x 1.5mm thick that Firelight2 has suggested.
@PNWest, are your KR1AA switches plain, or with magnet, or with trit slot? Was it difficult to get the glued retaining ring loose?
fwiw, I heard from Hank that he has developed a new Higher Resistance switch PCB. I have not tried it yet.
and fwiw, my stock KR1AA switch has 20oz resistance, while my Wurkkos TS10SG has 29oz resistance.
I definitely think raising the switch resistance on the KR1AA is a good idea and plan an O Ring Mod and also plan to try the new Higher Resistance switch PCB from Hank to compare to the O ring mod.
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I have 4 KR1AA lights and only one was glued. I used a drop or two of debonder and kept the cap tilted and rotating to avoid it making contact with the kapton tape under the switch. It came off with a little persuasion. All my caps are plain and no magnet.
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Yes, we now have the option to choose the tailcap with 2 times higher activation resistance.
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Yes, the other colors should be available within this month including midnight blue
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I donât think we have the plan for other materials other than aluminum.
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Will the new tail cap switch be available to purchase separately?
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Oh man Iâm excited for the midnight blue andâŚgreen?
Silver is back in stock!!! Bravo Henk!!
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Polished Silver version head is not glued, please refer to the operation here
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Am I correct in understanding that the silver versionâs head is not glued for one sole purposeâto tighten the back cover and secure the clamp, or are there any other design differences from the color models? Thank you!
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