Yeah, he said it got up to 220f in the review, so a bit over 100c, figures since it is summer now and thus higher ambient temps. The internals are all rated for at least 125c and can handle hotter for short periods and since the light only runs for a few minutes like this, it is fine, I just would not make a habit of it.
The cells are the bigger concern, when I ran my test the cells were under the rated temps but getting close to it. Those are something I would want to keep below the rated temps (most of the ones I was using are 70-80c IIRC)
Of course thats okay, I think that is the best place for it…
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I was so nervous about saying that. Not only did I repeat calibration and the tests multiple times. For reference I also re-tested my Imalent R90TS on the same setup on the same day and it produced only 29,000 lumens (its rated at 36,000).
When I ran it wide open with the temp sensor disabled it ran till the batteries started to die. The first “significant” drop in output was at 14min 14 sec. I really would not advise making a habit of that. Doing that is going to be very hard on the light, and the batteries, but yes, it can for sure be done
On Monday I will compile a small data sheet of the temps and outputs I recorded. For now I would say probly keeping the turbo to about 6 minues or so would be a good plan
Yeah, I can understand that. I knew in theory if everything was done right high 20’s were possible and getting over 30k I figured would be possible with some mods but the prototype really caused me to lower my expectations. They told me they thought the LED’s were P2 binned but I was never convinced.
This is the kind of performance I had hoped for.
Did you get any throw numbers? I missed them in the video if so.
Neal’s site claims 450kcd, let’s see if that is met.
Btw, I could not wait for more reviews, I had money now and am not sure if in a couple of months it still is so, ordered one in NW (but ordered 4 4000K 80CRI leds from KD too, for if the tint does not suit me). TA, it is a miracle that your project after years finally made it into a commercial flashlight, and one that is still relevant, I honour that with a sale
You know how I know Matt wasn’t kidding when he said temps reached 220F? Mosquitos were literally fried in the fins. Don’t ask me how I spotted this. Screenshot from Matt’s video.
I may be but need to investigate first how heavy the reflector is and how well it fits in the head, as a heavy reflector kept in place only by the solder joints of the leds may be a weak point (should not be too bad, 4 soldered XHP70 leds form pretty good grip i.e. compared to a single 3535 led). The rest of the flashlight should handle a decent drop without problem.
Indeed. I actually gave up on this a few times but kept poking them every few months and eventually they basically agreed to give it a try just to make me be quite I am pretty sure lol.
Thanks for the sale, I get a few bucks off each on that uses the code in the thread.
Matt posted his lumen results in the video, 32k lumens at 30 seconds. I did not see any throw numbers though.
It better feel ok with the handle, I literally spent months trying to get them to balance it properly lol.
The last prototype handle felt good, just needed a few tweaks to get it just right, it looks like they made them from the video but won’t know for sure until I get mine.
If you refer to shift to green around the hotspot, I’m sure it will be there, I can see it in VOB’s video, it looks like he had a cool white version. In the neutral version, that I assume will be around 5000K, that tint will be a bit more towards yellow.
Yeah, the corona tint shift is part of the XHP70.2 LED and nothing that can really be done about that. The OP reflector helps but it is basically impossible to remove it with a reflector.
If you have a Harbor Freight near you, the Pelican copy cat tool cases are pretty cheap. I have bought a few for various purposes and they are a great case for the money.
Search for Apache tool case. They have various sizes and colors. Find a 20% coupon and have at it.
