Just saw it. Awesome work man!
Anyone disassembled their 1405? I need to change this driver from 5 to 1 mode only and boost the current!
Good luck finding a high output driver. I put a XP-E2 torch in one I sold to a friend. It had a 2.4A buck driver in it. I’m working on building a 4A driver from RMM but haven’t had a chance to finish yet
Since this is fat flashlight with plastic tube which allows some space could he connect 2x18650 in parallel inside tube somehow? That way he would not be limited to buck driver.
Yeah, he could make some form of a battery sled than is wired parallel but that would be an easy thing. Possible, but it would require some planning and work
Second light arrived today, was hoping it would have the insert for led holding but no joy, so im in for two please, is there a process? I can pay by paypal for postage if you can PM me details N10Severn, thanks again for a very patiently conducted group buy 
There is a lot of info to read here and figure ill just post that damn question
What does the pill hold? 16mm mcpcb? 17mm driver?
Is there a 18650 holder included?
The price says $24.94 @ gearbeast, will that price change soon or, what is the group buy benefit?
Correct, its a 16mm mcpcb, a 17mm driver & yes there is a 18650 holder included.
Both of my pills came with off center emitter holes, and I think they are very tight fit with XP16 noctigons. I would like to see at least 1mm of free walk around emitter(17 or 17,5mm instead of 16) which would be useful for IR builds which must be isolated from ground.
Not if you use a Bergquist PCB 
that’s what I use, but I only push them to around 1.4A
You would not believe but I tested and got better results with noctigons. And I will give you hint here... It is not quite true that you cant measure light intensity of IR light on lux meter. It will give some numbers at small distances( 2-5cm of diffuser). So U must put spacer on diffuser here and test tight press bergquist vs isolated noctigon. I got 500 for berquist and 800 for noctigon both driven at same current(1,75A). But that results told me an unquestionable win of noctigon over bergquist.
I don’t doubt it. I was just giving you crap for fun. I don’t fool with IR enough to have a say. It was just a hassle to isolate everything so I went bergquist and artic silver. What are you using between the pcb and pill? The ones I have built have been in T20’s and the people have been happy so far.
Artic Alumina is your friend if you use noctigons but don't press mcpcb to hard on it. Gentle press or you could ground it and poof follows after that as it happened to me :) Bergquist all the way if you don't want to experiment with this. Noctigons are more risky.
Tell me more about this strange aspect of the IR leds, why do they burn out if the isolated (electrically) bottom of the Noctigon touch ground, how are the IR different to colour or white led’s. Why do they need to be isolated when the white led’s don’t need to be.
It is not inherent to IR-leds, it is an annoying feature of the Osram Oslon Black package: the central thermal pad of the led is not electrically neutral but connected to the + . That is not a problem with the presence of a dielectric layer, but with DTP copper boards the led+ gets shorted to the flashlight body 
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Aha that makes perfect sense, thanks djozz
Weird design choice on the Osram Oslon Black though, THAT makes very much no sense at all to me, but i guess they must have had a good reason to make them like that :~
I have not really any need for IR light that i can think of, i don’t hunt & and i don’t use night vision systems. Besides that & possible grow lights what would you use them for?
But I like to use Amber & Red lights before bed time to optimize my melatonin production.
Today I built me a little Jexree Mini, with one of the Red XP-E2’s on 10mm Sinkpad i bought from n10sivern, and i really like it it is almost to bright, especially if i use a Efest 10440 to DD it, just crazy amount of pure Red that fills the room :D, but i will use it with the stock boost driver with an Eneloop.
Those tiny boost driver have a tendency to burnout, if used with a 4.2v battery so you lose the NiMH boost function of the driver & it only functions on 10440’s then.
To be honest i am a bit scared about building or using IR lights, i have read some horror stories, of guys who have hurt their eyes because they didn’t see the IR emitted, but the IR is focused on the retina even if you can’t see it.
When you are building & using IR lights have you or anyone here ever encountered that?