I said that is almost loud as original omten switch(which is just bit louder than pressure) so it does requires some modding. I will open one and see if something can be done here. Maybe with switch Cajamba recommended... I don't know... Most of game will not react even on omten (they just raise head and stand still), but with real cable switch(Dereelight for ex.) they don't even raise a head.
I didn’t mean that you should use the OMRON Micro Switch, those are tiny tiny little switches.
That was just an example on a switch type i know will be absolutely silenced, by adding vaselin/petroleum jelly to the loud connector plates/spring plate inside.
And i think most switches that uses that kind of buckling of a spring plate, to make a clicky sound, could be silenced by adding vaseline to deaden the vibration action, that makes the sound without impacting the electrical properties of the switch.
Finally built mine up a couple of days ago.
Went with an XP-G2 S2 1D on a Noctigon, which I de-domed with petrol.
Decided to forgo a driver, as it’s a large host and I won’t be using it up close. So used a 17mm blank board and some 22 gauge wire to the emitter and running from the spring on the board also.
With a green Efest 26650 and fat leads on my DMM I’m getting 4.3 amps tailcap.
The tint is absolutely spot on, the S1 1D de-domed makes for a lovely NW emitter. Think I’ll have to use it again on something else.
I’ll try and grab some beam shots over the weekend.
In flood mode, the area illuminated is quite small — is this normal for this host?
And the beam isn’t overly clean and has a defect, bright/dim section in the middle. Assume this is due to the de-doming?
Basically, in flood mode the light sucks vs all of my other aspheric zoomies.
In throw mode however, yep it easily wipes the floor with anything else I’ve got. Close up it’s not the cleanest beam and the LED doesn’t look focused, although give it a little range and it does appear better focused.
Afraid I don’t have a way to measure lux. But it puts a shed load of light on the target at 230 metres. Which is the furthest I’ve had chance to use it at yet.
Views on the host.
-Very nose heavy
-Not very nice to hold in the hand
-Don’t like the rotary zooming function, as it’s quite hard to operate and often results in you undoing the tailcap at the same time
-Very nice finish and general quality
I haven’t used it for extended on times, but the few mins I had it running, the host stayed cold, so cold you’d not even know it was on. So must be handling the heat of a direct driven XP-G2 no probs.
BTW - I did fit the retaining ring for the LED. Not sure if this contributes to the dirty flood beam or not. Might try it without, but overall fairly happy with it as a single purpose use thrower.
I agree about the small flood mode, the lens is to far from the led to give a really wide flood.
And if you have a dim section in the middle, you most likely accidental damaged the emitter somehow in the dedoming installation process. I have had that happened also before.
If you want to get a larger spot size test a collimator lens, over the led about 0.7mm. It should make the spot much larger without losing much distance. Or order a XM-L2 U4 from Cutter/MTN, believe me you wont regret it 
more lumens & a wider beam & more throw.
If you don’t get a in focus zoom spot, try turn it back a bit i that doesn’t help with focus try testing if the top o-ring changes things when its under the lens or under the bezel.
I received mine today.
i did some testing, i have a “lux sensor” on my multimeter, i have no idea how bad it is, but from a couple of meters i tested some of my flashlights:
UF-1504: 660 UoC (Units of comparison :bigsmile: )
BTU Shocker, stock NW XM-L: 650 UoC
UF-T20 XM-L, stock: 165 UoC
SRK 6x XM-L2 stock: 145 Uoc
Nitecore MT21A XP-E2, stock: 70 UoC
Ultrafire F13 XM-L, stock, 78 UoC
Does this look somewhat as expected? Should a BTU shocker, stock NW XM-L have the same numbers as the UF-1504?
Looks high for the 1504, or low for the BTU. Are you using quality cells in both? BTU should be roughly double the stock 1504.
The BTU have protected panasonic 3400mah, measured the battery holder at 12.29 Volts. and protected keeppower 4500 mah in the 1504. Both totally stock. I have no idea about the quality of the lux-sensor on the multimeter though, maybe the tint affects the measures?
> beam isn’t overly clean and has a defect, bright/dim section in the middle
I have one host modded with a nichia, and one stock light; both have the same uneven flood, not as clean as a SK68 or #3.
Not annoying, just noticeable.
http://www.gearbest.com/diy-parts-and-tools/pp_194381.html
Price is good but there is a dimple in the center 
.
With our copper boards the dimple does not matter
Someone really should make & sell drop in pills for those who can’t mod, with a dedomed XM-L2 U4 or XP-G2 S4 & FET driver for the 1504 & Richards new high amp buck driver for the 1405.
It such a great upgrade over the stock light
that would be cool, but for the 1405 you’d be looking at a $30+ drop in. eek!
Yeah you are right, the cheapest option & my favourite is just to run it without driver in the 1504. Then you only need the pill, led+mcpcb, and a bare 17mm board & the wires. It cost less than $5 to make.
XP-G2 S4 from IOS on 16mm Noctigon $3.98
Strip an old crap 17mm driver for free
Use the old pill that came with the light.
Fasttech carobronze spring, wire bypassed.
and BANG 400kcd+ :bigsmile:
What about your lightmeter? Will it arrive soon? It seems that you made lowest resistance mod here so you should have best results.
The flashlight is relatively heavy with 1 26650 battery( >590 grams), with 2 its nearly 750 grams
Its a good flashlight( actualy one of the best) for a heavy rifle, but 1405….isnt that practial
I ordered my 11th piece of those today altogether with a 1503 - 1504 actualy made me somehow like zoomies
Have to try IR 1504 though…
P.S
4 of my tail button that pretent to be Omten passed away
I think its crusial to swap the tail button with a real Omten based on this- the FT one fits perfectly
No other issues met so far
P.S 2
The last hunt a guy nearly shot friend`s 1504( a ricochet), thus damaging its Convex Lens: this is the right one
I have ordered one, but i haven’t got it yet though. And i am also waiting on a XP-G2 S4 from IOS, that i plan to reflow onto the brass pill soldered noctigon where my old XP-L V6 1A sits now.
I wish i had a second brass pill for my XM-L2 U4, because i think the XM-L2 have more to gain, with it’s larger headroom in lumens output from higher amps, from the smaller voltage drop by soldering the led - directly to the brass pill, than a XP-G2 that already topping out at 5-6 amps.
About the light meter, as we have seen with n10sivern’s & KKW’s testing, a light meter doesn’t tell the whole story. It is most accurate to compare a modded light with it self after further modifications to see where one ends up.
The highest measurement so far reported on the 1504/1405, was KKW’s dedomed S4 2B in a 1405 with a 5 amp driver, with a collar and measured 470kcd. I don’t know if that was at start or at 30sec though.
And i don’t think my extra low resistance mods could make up for a collar’s boosting performance, but it would be fun if i am wrong about that ;), we haven’t seen any numbers from builds without drivers so far.
A small collar like KKW is using is raising the output about 3 flux bins higher or ~20%.
Thanks for the update, i was really suspicious about that unmarked omten clone, good to know i was right to upgrade to a real omten 
And thanks for confirming FT sells the real deal, i have recently ordered some from there but, i haven’t received them yet, and i was a bit worried i would receive unmarked ones.
[quote=Mitko]
4 of my tail button that pretent to be Omten passed away
I think its crusial to swap the tail button with a real Omten based on this- the FT one fits perfectly
Mitko, could you provide a link to those switches please mine just fried.
Nice, thanks