Rick, you can use the mucked up LED in a flooder type light if you want, or, dedome as others suggested. If you’re dedoming, use the LED in a thrower type light, if not, be prepared for disappointment. The lumens loss is very noticeable.
Yeah, I am accepting this LED as a lost. I will probably use this as an excuse for another Mouser order, I can use a couple more of ATTINY85V on stand-by. I have not blown one yet, but I will. (Rationalization already begun - brain modification in progress).
After I get a resupply, I will see what to do with this one. Outside of dedoming it and see what it does, I don’t have other ideas yet. I already have some lower output T6’s laying around. So I don’t really need an extra “disposable” LED.
Beside de-doming as thrower, anyone got another suggestion for what to do with an XML2-U2 with mess up lens/dome?
well, if you don’t mind a little uglyness, I’ve put old LEDs on heatsinks and powered them by old cell phone chargers (usually in the 800mA range. You can upgrade old flashlights (or lights with xpg s for example, to give more flood).
Goo-Gone is good stuff, so thanks for sharing another use for it!
Based on my nose and my vast experience with thinners and solvents, I have come to the conclusion that GooGone is essentially scented cigarette lighter fluid which is essentially high-grade painter’s VM&P Naptha, a common brush-cleaning solvent. Each step away from the original makes for a huge price increase with only a nicer smell and prettier packaging as the main difference.
Something else to consider when working with thinners, solvents, and glues is that the fumes may be quite active too, and that can cause unwanted results. Plastics are particularly sensitive to fumes so if you’re cleaning vs de-doming work with strong, direct ventilation even if just a fan blowing directly on your work piece. Generally the stronger the solvent and/or the softer the plastic, the more effect fumes will have.
Some of what I’ve learned came the hard way by having to replace plastic items in my work where I either wasn’t being careful enough or didn’t know of the effect until it happened. I bought a new laminate countertop once (even though I sure didn’t want to) because of Xylene fumes- the liquid never made contact but the fumes were enough to dull the finish. Live and learn!
Phil
Sorry to hear that. Silicone domes are extremely sensitive. You shouldn't even touch them - oils from your hands, etc. are not good. When I see marks, dust, etc. on them, all I use is 90+% isopropyl alcohol on a clean micro fiber cloth, and lightly go over it - usually works well. Isopropyl alcohol is great for lots of things - I use if for cleaning up flux, cleaning PCB boards, lots of things. It's safe on virtually everything and cleans/sterilizes.
You can get the 91% stuff at most drug stores, in 16 oz. only a couple dollars.
My vote is dedome it, but depends on the tint - can go to doubling the kcd, though a U2 I consider a bit dated now. I've been getting excellent results with U4's. Mouser and DigiKey aren't the best source to buy CREE LED's (price and choice of bin/tint) from - MtnE, IOS, Simon's AliExpress store, Cutter are all known good sources. Illumn is good, but not much choice and stock is somewhat dated.
Goo Gone gets it’s orange scent from the d-Limonene in it. But I know it contains more ingredient(s). SawMaster says it contains VM&P Naptha too. So Goo Gone must be d-Limonene + VM&P Naptha. I wonder if that’s the secret recipe to this miracle fluid. 8)
Yeah I’d dedome it. If you’ve already written it off as a loss, you won’t be too upset if you kill it completely. Or, you might get a perfectly dedomed emitter.
For those thinking about using this to “frost” an led, be careful. I tried doing that with sandpaper to smooth out the donut in an xhp70 beam, and it collected too much light in the “frost” and turned the dome to ash. I was able to recover that led, but only because I caught it before it damaged the phosphors.
Hmmm…. so anyway, I tried frosting one of my counterfeit emitters like I mentioned… With a mister full of Goo-Gone, I applied a light misting to the dome. After an hour or two of sitting, no change. 
I’ll be interested in what happens. Maybe just at the heat an XHP produces the “frost” was a problem, but it could be fine at XM-L2 heats. I don’t know.
Btw Keltex, your sig is still my favorite on BLF. :bigsmile:
Hmmm? You mean Don’s (User #7!) quote regarding the then-new XM-L emitters? As found in this circa-2010 review of a XP-G based P60?
That thread was active for nearly three years! But with only 36 replies.
@ the OP, So sorry you aren’t getting the sympathy you looked for in this thread. Instead, you are getting emulators who are attempting to duplicate your work intentionally! :nerd_face:
Heat may indeed has something to do with it. Trying to recall what happened, That it “looked AOK immediate after” is something I recall clearly. With about 5 minutes of use and about 1/2 hour later is when I noticed the decreased output. LUX Meter confirmed the decrease, and then visual inspection shows tiny pits that cannot be cleaned.
Initial cleaning was goo-gone then moist (water) then alcohol. After discovering decreased output and then the clouded dome, subsequent cleaning was done with alcohol only.
The pits are big enough to be visible as a pit with 30x loupe. So subsequent cleanings did nothing.
I plan to get a replacement from Mouser since this “pitty LED” is the known-real-Cree from Mouser. Between now and then, I will remove it and check and see if possibly a dome transplant could work. I have some Latticebright XML as potential donor, but they may have a smaller dome. If dome transplant doesn’t work, I will get a pair from Mouser this time. I like having a pair so I can at least compare to see if my measurement seems reasonable by comparing it with its twin.
I doubt you will be able to do a dome “transplant” because I can’t see a way to remove the air/space between the phosphor and the dome. I think the bottom of the dome would just reflect a lot of light and you will see even more decreased output.
Just so you know, Mouser is not the only source for genuine Cree LED’s. Very few people here buy their LED’s straight from a large supplier like Mouser.
Not a waste at all, hint -> dedoming…
I know “transplant” is rather a long shot. I have not even measured the size for fitness. Having come to terms with my “involuntary LED slaughter,” think about how I can get the most out of it.
Mouser serves me well on parts. When I was ordering parts already, adding on another item is like free shipping for that item. Do you have a suggestion for known-to-be-real supplier for XML2.
Thanks
Rick
Mountain Electronics or Intl Outdoor Store (IOS)
Mouser serves me well too. They are amazing. I’ve spent so much money there I got a call from one of their sales reps a few years ago offering to buy me dinner and discuss my business. :bigsmile:
In the US Ham Radio world, Mouser is the #1 “go-to” place for components and has been for decades. I would suppose they are equally good with flashlight-oriented components too. Quality and value are a mind-set which usually makes it across-the-board when it’s there, and with Mouser it is there in a big way.
Phil
you NEED to de dome it .there is nothing else possible and certainly nothing that the best modders on the forum are saying to you other than …DE-DOME it
If TOM E says de-dome it …i think by law you have to .
if it’s good enough for cree to start doing it’s a good thing …> martha stewart says … it’s a good thing …
olight agrees
Mr mouser says …Just de dome it .
in 2016 your new years resolution should be to de dome it …
NIKE says … just do it
De-domed (first of the three lens-damaged one).
Awesome. The beam is narrow and the reach is awesome. After the silly move of using goo-gone without thinking, this time, I reached for my “perhaps fake” Cree with damaged lens - to work out how to de-dome using my less valued LED.
With such awesome reach, I will certainly de-dome my Mouser supplied Cree next.
I think I want to keep at least one light with this kind of reach… I think I will need more hosts!