Olight CR123A cells -- are they shedding old stock, or are they misrepresented?

At periodic Olight sales I’ve thrown in a few CR123A cells, because sometimes they’re free for 1 or 2, or the price is slashed. I had accumulated 6 over the past couple of years. Seemed like a good deal, since they’re rated for 3.6v 3V (nominal) and 1600 mAh. So, I broke open one package only to find the voltage starting at 3.35v, and then promptly dropped off from there. Just a few minutes of use and down to 3.15v. They shouldn’t drop off on voltage that fast.

So I opened up every single package to check… And they’re ALL LIKE THAT. :unamused::face_with_raised_eyebrow::angry:

Going by the capacity and voltage, I’m pretty sure you bought non-rechargeable CR123A lithium primary cells, thinking they were li-ion 16340

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CR123A is non-rechargeable.

Don’t try to charge them or you’ll be the next example of an exploding Olight.

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Huh?

The package says CR123A. 3.6v “3V nominal” and 1600 mAh.
How do you get that I was expecting RCR123?

Of course. RCR123 is rechargeable, it’s also called 16340. I don’t understand what is the confusion.

The nominal voltage of rechargeables is 3.6v, nominal voltage of primaries is 3.0v. That’s a pretty noticeable difference.

It would helpful if you posted a photo of the batteries.

They should not be marketed as 3.6v. I don’t know why they are. But what you are describing is exactly as they’re supposed to act. What is the issue besides bad labeling? I’d email Olight and tell them they made a labeling mistake

Thats not old stock, that’s ancient stock. CR123 are supposed to have a shelf life of 20+ years.

If they are really marked CR123A and 3.6volts they are mislabeled and should never have been sold.

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there must be some misunderstanding, the package, the cell itself, and this link says:

3V 1600mAh CR123A”

your Voltage readings are normal for fresh 3V 1600mAh CR123A

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The packaging just has “3V” as the nominal voltage, and 1600 mAh. But I swore I saw somewhere that it was spec’d as 3.6v.

Anyway, they started out at 3.35v, which is perfectly normal. But after just a few minutes, 3.15v, then 3.11v.

Yes, I had seen 3.6v somewhere for the Valkyrie CR123A’s. Apparently my mistake. But, the real problem is that starting voltage is normal, 3.35V, and drops off very quickly in just a few minutes by 0.2V. And “resting voltage” afterward doesn’t restore back to 3.35V.

CR123s fall off the starting voltage very quickly. This is normal.
All the Best,
Jeff

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Thanks, Jeff. I haven’t used CR123A cells in a long time, other than an old one still giving life to my NovaTac 120P.

I’m using this in a Sofirn HS10… which is rated to take both RCR123A and CR123A. Tested the CR123A at 3.35V. Put it in the HS10 and red light indicator. Put in a fresh RCR123A showing 3.6V, and green light.

That’s normal behavior for a CR123A, they stay around 3.1-2.8v for nearly all the runtime, and then drop off quickly.

OK, thanks. The behavior of this HS10 I’m using that’s spec’d for CR123A and 16340 compatibility seems to have a misunderstanding of the healthy voltage of a CR123A. As soon as it’s installed, the battery status lights up red. When in use, it’s a constant flashing red LED. This “over-reaction” had me confused into thinking the battery was stale.

From the sofirn webpage…
“6. Battery Option: The headlamp runs on one CR123A battery or one 16340 battery, which gives it significantly more power. And you can take CR123A batteries as a backup when 16340 is not available at hand.”

That sounds to me that the CR123A may be used but will produce fewer lumens. The fact that the battery status goes into red with a CR13A is likely because the circuit is set up for the 16340. It may be impossible to build the voltage detection circuit to be able to discriminate between a CR123A and a 16340 and produce cell appropriate readings

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A streamlight I reviewed some years back listed two different peak lumens for Liths vs CR123s. 3500 vs 2500. So not as zippy with the 123s.

You really can’t tell the capacity of a lithium primary battery by the open circuit voltage. Depending on the load, they will be anywhere from 2 to 3 V. Under load. Open circuit testing won’t tell you anything. Think of it like nimh. They will be 1.3v to 1.35 V whether they’re fully charged or almost dead

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