Olight M22 Warrior - direct driven?

Hey guys!

My M22 Warrior will arrive today, got it for 35$!

Which cell should I use? Is it anyhow direct driven?
Can I get more output out of it with a Samsung 30Q or will a KeepPower 3500mAh one just do the job as good?

Greetings
Pascal

Hey m8,
Nope it aint direct driven by default, at its max with 30q you should expect a tailcap reading of 2.7amps
the Olight tailcap assembly is kinda bad- you should mod it asap

It could be direct driven but the driver retainer is glued so you shoud heat it up in order to dissasemble it

The default emitter is like t6 or something, i would swap it if i were you

Here, a well modded M22 : The emitter is V6 1D driven at 6 amps, the driver is a 26mm DD fet one
Total lumens with a fresh battery are like 1900, max candelas are increased buy above 400%

30q is a nice battery, the best battery for this one would be Sony VTC5A

Thanks for your info!

Unfortunately I have no experience with modding. I might look into it soon. I don’t have much experience with a iron solder either.

What would it approximately cost to buy the FET Driver and a V6 1D?

hi mitko, please so i stay mod mi m22 i just put one xpl hi v2 3d and the tint is neutral e very well done, now i want put one fet and have you other photo of the driver complete or video of the comparison with your new mod of the m22?

http://www.international.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=463

The M22 Warrior has a very good driver.

The question is: what do you want? More output or more throuw? Or both?

I have one in which only the led has been swapped: with a XP-L V3 HI it now has 47Kcd (stock is about 20Kcd).
Easy mod, as the reflector is screwed in.

I you would then change the driver to go to, say 5A, you would theoretically get around 82Kcd. 6A would - theoretically - mean just below 100Kcd.
Mind you, at 6 or even 5A this light will get very hot very quickly.
I left the original drive in mine, for reliability purposes.

Grtz
Nico

yes i want both, the olight driver is ok and just i put the xpl hi v2 3d and is very good so for the tint so for the little more spot, but so just i ordered the mnt 26mm fet driver to put on it and just see what bacame…

Hi Nicolaas!

I’m complete noob to modding. You are stated that swapping of the led in M22 is a simple mod, so I would like to try with my.

Would you be kind to post how you do that (with some photos if it is possible)?

Thanks in advance,
Dejan

At arround 5 amps it gives 85k- as good as a nice focused X6, i like modding M22, unfortunately they seem to discontinue it.
The default driver can be modded but its fragile, firts youll loose the low mode, second it wont last long, speaking of experience :slight_smile:

Well i use self build 26mm fet dd drivers, you can ask MTN( Richard) for detailed specs

ABout the rest: 18650B wont work m8, its a low-drain battery, try Sasmung 25r or Sony VTC5A( my personal favourite), you have to use at least 20 avg emitter supply wires, also a spring bypass is a must

The default M22 26mm spting that holds/ assues the minus contact the driver : clean it very well, personaly i removed it but it recuires extra modding

My driver has a different firware m8, we just use the same PCB: i programmed 3 OFT modes only( 8-30-100% with a turbotimer 2.5mins) and a battery check- its a hunting flahslight allrihgt, why to use any useless fancy firmware?
Yes 2.1amp is low, i get a better value using a Ultrafire battery- check pls those possible issues that i already mentioned before, especialy the spring one( that holds the driver)

now with a new refresh to all contact i arrive at beautiful 6.8A but measured at the emitter wires….with panasonic ncr18650 un protected……wow….! im very fine with this mode and the driver works well……

6.8a? And the emitter lives? i might say wow….you sure? with panasonic unprotected?

yes i have test another time but no at the tailcap, but on the led wire…at the tailcap i read only 3.6A but with a very bad connection point, after i mod another time the main spring at the rear of the driver and i put one wire of 3mm on the diameter with 2 strong large sondering point to give a better flux on the connection between the negative of driver board diameter and the body tube of m22, so i clean very well all parts and work very good….