LED cavity width
Driver diameter
Copper board
Whole pill
Empty body
X3- your post in the modding thread helped me to get into my S1 and this new video is just going to “open up” buying more Olights for me…
The CW emitter has its role, but in sweet little EDC lights like these, the quality of light from a good NW or WW tint cannot be beat by the few extra lumen a CW emitter gives…
Thanks for this from everything but my wallet…lol
I’m nearly a fanboy of Olight, shape, UI and minimalist aesthetic are near perfect to me… except this CW emitters (okay NW in Ti S1 is quite acceptable)
The fact that it’s FINALLY possible to swap them in S1 and S2 is IMHO a huge step !
I’ve put a nice WW 7A in my S1 EDC, and plan to put a 219C in my S2… that will finally see some usage !
Ahh, I’m stuck with a few Olights, two S1’s, couple more that are dead to me because I can’t open them. Yes, hate the blue cools they all have.
Pic links in post #12 are not working for me, and didn’t play the video yet (not a video fan). Am very interested though! Found from the mod thread.
+1
And my old PC can not play videos.
Pics links are fixed now.
However, they are not S1”s pics…
I’ll try to make a few pics of an S1 disassamble to show you
I like how there is no talking in the video!
I have not tried to take my S20 apart, no need to except i wish it could do more then 400 lumens
I’m French and have a terrible english accent so I prefered to shut up lol
Update on this, don’t even think of putting a Nichia 219 in both S1 nor S2…the beam is ugly, with artifacts everywhere !
EDIT from 16/07/2019 : I actually tried more 3535 emitters behind the Olight TIR.
219B/C as well as LH351B/D and even SST20 are okay. You have to focus them properly but the beam is clean with the good spacer.
I actually EDC a Lumintop tool AA with an Olight TIR and a 9080 sw45 219B
Basically, with stuck with XM-L2
4C on the left (Nitecore HC30 +TIR) 219B 4500K (Olight I3S) and 7A 3000K (Olight S2)
Can anyone help? I got the button bezel off my copper s2 but I can’t get the aluminum pin out of the pill. Tried everything!
You have a PM 
Basically, for anyone reading this in the future :
- take a paperclip
- make a small hook, like 1 or 2mm radius
- put the hook in the pill hole
- pull the pin with the hook
Does anybody know what are the dimensions of the copper Led board (inside the S2)?
Wish I had seen this before accidentally slicing the bottom off my S15 switch 
Think I may have also damaged the switch on the mcpcb. Anyone know where to get a replacement?
Wonder if a LH351D might be a better fit as far as beam pattern. Sucks that the 219C doesn’t work well, that’d be my choice as well.
I put an XP-G2 (rosy tint) in my S1R Baton I and it doesn’t have many artifacts. However, the overall beam seems to have a smaller diameter.
Here are some beamshots of how it looks like:
Please be warned about the whole process of LED replacement/swap, as I and others have damaged the driver (mine got a ultra moonlight mode instead of the normal ML mode).
The thread is here: Help troubleshooting a mod that went wrong :( [Olight S1R Baton]
I can attest to the dangers however my Olight S15 remains as the only light I have attempted to mod unsuccessfully. I keep revisiting it occasionally to have another crack. I think the final hurdle is to get the switch button and bezel out. They just won’t budge 
FYI, inspired by this thread I gave a go at one of my Olights. I used a copper tube cutter like the one below to get the bezel off. Worked well.
14mm in diameter and 1mm thick
OK, thanks, X3!
thanks for the details, very useful