Anyone notice some TIR optics take away the crispness of the led when compared to reflectors?
Yup. Elzetta.
I noticed too, but just realized the light I have has a frosty coating on the TIR lens so I'm going to see if I can replace it with a clear one to see what it does to the quality of the beam.
Clear, narrow TIRs with a flat face have the most similar beam characteristics to a reflector.
Thought that might be the case thanks. Emailed acebeam to see if they would sell me a clear one for my green L17 or at least let me know the specs so that I can order one elsewhere. I know my warranty would be void if I do that but don't care any more about warranties on lights under $100
I think the dimensions are very close to a LEDIL IRIS. But I’ll say that probably also doesn’t have a beam profile you are looking for
I would prefer the beam profile of the L17 as it is very focused. Maybe the optics in their white L17 is using the clear lens instead of the foggy one in the green one. Hopefully they'll as least reply to me.
The IRIS is very efficient and throwy. Highly recommend honestly. But if you want a defined, crisp spot, that isn’t what I’m getting. More of a stepped hotspot smoothly transitioning into a subtle but usable spill.
I found this https://www.ledil.com/install-guide-example/iris-lens-assembly-instructions/
If I tried it, how would I know which one to get that would fit in the L17 Head?
After a bit of searching I found what I think it’s the TIR used in the L17 white and Manker MC13. I think minimum order is 100 so not much help I’m afraid.
CA$0.0271 - CA$2.70 Min. Order : 200 Pieces
If it was really $0.0271 a piece then I could order the minimum 200 pieces for $5.42 total :D
It’s close to the MC13….
But no cigar…. the height is a bit shorter…compared to the MC13 so not a direct replacement…
The other hurdle (s) would be where to get a 3 hole 3535 MCPCB for it, or a custom made centering ring to locate the optic to the emitter, (would that create artifacts) and then what lights would it fit? Custom spacers would be needed….which is no big deal… I would be interested in a few for my M3 mods to try…
So not a direct fit then! I was hoping acebeam would reply to my email or pm, but they usually don't if it's a technical question I've found no matter what light.
Ummm not a direct replacement for the MC13 I have…. do not know about the L17 you would have to pull and measure the optic…
I think acebeam glues their bezels so I have to read a little how to remove them without busting up everything.
So here is a link to the initially linked TIR but with a minimum order of 100pc.
Yes, there are ways…the E10 I superglued the thin top surface of the bezel to a green cutting mat, carefully twisted the whole light and it unscrewed easily. Then bent the cutting mat to get the bezel off the mat. The dried glue easily scraped off the anodised bezel with absolutely no marks left. No sign of Acebeam having glued it.
For the L17 I would make use of the crenulations by pushing hard into the sole of a (clean) treaded rubber shoe sole, and turn… If that didn’t work then the glue trick would be next!
I did think about what would happen if I put this TIR in the Lumintop X9L, looks like the fit would be quite good. Expect that it might melt the TIR and also beam artifacts.
0oklight, some ingenious bezel removing ideas you have there! Tried twisting the bezel using my wife's rubber clogs. Going to have to give her that deer in the headlight look when she sees the huge gash in them from me trying to twist the bezel. When she asks, I'll pretend I don't know what she's talking about, that usually works. Also tried it in other shoes with stiffer rubber soles but no luck yet. If it's not glued then it is really tight. I'll give it a few more tries in the morning and see how it goes, thanks for the tips.
klrman - judging by the outcome of wife’s rubber clogs vs. Acebeam it sounds like you have a really tough task on your hands. After reading about this I tried my L17 on the sole of some (Vans!) shoes and the bezel loosened immediately in a way that suggested no glue is used. Hope it’s helpful information to know that it is at least possible with some.
Was also thinking that this TIR might be matched with a dedomed/sliced SST-40 for some interesting results.
It is rather easy to make a tool for fitting right in the bezel’s nothes. Four screws, or nails in a piece of wood. Then cut the 4 screw so only 5mm sticks out. It worked well on Acebeam E10. Also for tightening. The durability of the tool might vary according to wood used. Of course measure and work as preciselly as you can so fit will be best and would not leave scratches.
I tried several methods this morning with no success and even spouted out a few words I never thought I'd say in the process!. This bezel is cemented. I also lined it up with a small metal beam I have on my desk and put a cloth between the bezel notches so I don't scuff it up but it won't budge. I noticed when I first got the L17 that there was a chip in the lens below the bezel, it did not crack the lens, but it is about 1/4" long running adjacent to the edge which means they may have really tightened it hard at the factory.