[Optisolis/E17A/E21A] Jetbeam Jet-µ

I would buy AA too.

nothing to add here, AA as EDC is just perfect

Anyone with PIC programming experience here? With reprogramming kit, we can adjust whatever modes we want. The limit is only max current (230 - 250mA). I wanted to bump a bit more to 350mA but that would be unpractical with small capacity AAA NiMh and could easily fry the E17A with 10440. It can take 10440 for under a minute in max before gets very hot (both the driver and the LED), hence no recommendation.

- Clemence

That’s it E17A/E21A wins! Thanks for all the feedback =)

- Clemence


I voted E21A. I’m not a big fan of twisties and AAA lights. I already have a bunch including Skylumen E01vn with 3200k 90CRI yuji emitter. I like clickies and AA. But since it is from Clemence, I will be buying it regardless.

3000k E21A would be my ideal for AAA sized lights :wink:

Goggle “yellow gap”. Monochromatic LEDs can be pretty efficient in red, green, especially blue, but yellow/amber is pretty dismal efficiency.

PCA LEDs take a shorter-wavelength blue (sometimes violet?) LED and convert that to yellow/amber more efficiently than a regular monochromatic y/a LED.

I always wondered but never really found out definitively the spectral spread of PCA LEDs. Monochromatic might be a nice narrow spectrum if that’s what you need, but PCA for a wider spread (eg, everything from orange to yellow-green but a peak/dominant wavelength in the yellow/amber range).

I’ve only tried some Cree color LEDs, like XP-E2 and XQ-E… but they make nice vivid colors. The quad XQ-E RAGB setup I made for my lightsaber gives me a pretty vivid spectrum for everything except purple. I didn’t get red enough red emitters or blue enough blue emitters to make a good purple.

So, you need deep blue and far red, but you got “regular” blue and red? But other than that, it’s working fairly well? Do you have the firmware finished yet (or close to finished)? I can’t remember if you’ve mentioned it.

Sorry, this was kind of a tangent which barely relates to the thread topic. Was mostly just saying that the color emitters work pretty well, though some shades need relatively specific components — like photo red and royal blue instead of regular red and blue.

About the saber project, I haven’t done much with it lately. I need to make a new PCB, but before that I need to learn how. And the code needs to be rearranged to enable a higher frame rate, because 60fps looks weird on a fast-moving object. Could also really stand to be ported to tiny841 in order to get the 4th PWM channel working better. But I’ve been busy with other projects instead.

I’m not really sure why color emitters were relevant for this thread, except that the MCPCB may be compatible with some color emitters. But color isn’t really the point of the AAA EDC project.

Color emitters is not relevant to most of us but it is an additional option since color E17A can use the same footprint as E21A. Especially when the beacon 4th mode can be added as planned. Green beacon is very eye catching from afar.
Last night I tested the stock board and at only 230mA the OEM non DTP board perform OK, with very minimal temp sag. This is a good thing for cost reduction but could be a deal breaker for those who plan to put 10440 in it.

- Clemence

Thanks for being cool clemence. :sunglasses:

Sorry for the off-topic about color LEDs. I can’t remember what I voted now, so I will go ahead and cancel my vote, whatever it is, and make it for the E17A/E21A choice. So, my vote might be changing, or it might be staying the same. We’ll see. :stuck_out_tongue:


Couldn’t decide myself. So I made both version: the Optisolis and E17A/E21A.
The prototyping is done with better result than expected. Looks like months of various TIR optic shopping is now paid off. Optisolis is finally flashlight enabled with correct TIR optic. This is the pickiest LED I’ve known so far. No reflector, no plain TIR optics, even the micro lensed (peebled) TIR optics choices are limited to only few. While wide angle optics be it reflector or TIR will fix the ugly beam issue, to get usable beam angle narrower than 30° is quite a challenge.
I haven’t test the E21A version as it will be so much easier. Let’s take a look at below pics and video:

Quick test at white wall (Optisolis and 30° Microlensed TIR optic).

Stay tune for more test results!

EDIT: forgot to include the output
Preliminary test result using sm505 P9 Optisolis:
OEM Cree XPE2 [unknown bin and CRI]: 96lm - 18lm - 1,3lm (advertised as 135lm max.) :neutral_face:

  • some artifacts (stock TIR optic)

Optisolis [p9 rfa00]: 65lm - 13lm - 0,9lm

  • limited to 30° micro lensed TIR optic only, the rest cast ugly unusable beam

E21A [D240 sm653 R9080]: 65lm - 14lm - 1lm

- very throwy, the hotspot is only half XPE2

  • super nice beam without visible tint shift and no artifacts (stock TIR optic)

It’s interesting that at 230mA, the efficiency of Optisolis matched E21A R9080 very closely

- Clemence

Looking forward to the final options!

Perfectly regulated, efficient, and best Tint and CRI, what is there not to love??

Superb! Can’t wait to get one of those Optisolis EDCs. Or maybe a 2000K E21A, or both…

Below is the runtime test with stock plain optics except for the Optisolis which used 30° peebled TIR optic. The E21A still needs some refinement as it’s so thin and sunk 0,7mm below the optic’s holder (centering ring). This make it outputs less than it supposed.
The Optisolis as expected, with it’s higher Vf has the lowest runtime. The warmer Optisolis will have longer runtime for their lower Vf.
This new generation Jet-μ is very good at maintaning almost flat regulated output. Although measured less than advertised 135lm, it’s still very good at 94lm for almost an hour! E21A with it’s lower voltage gives ~2,5 more minutes. With D320 E21A (R70 unfortunately) we can get the same output.

Beamshots (1 meter from the dirty wall, each marker are 10cm apart, 5600K WB):

- Clemence

The Jetbeam bosses must be wondering how to put Mr. Wizard on their payroll !

Another run time test. This time uncooled (previously was fully submerged in a room temperature water bucket). Started in an air conditioned room at 24°C - 25°C. The light temperature only reached feverishly warm (I just made up this term… :stuck_out_tongue: ).

Higher die temperature lowers the required forward voltage. Here we can see less than 5 lumens output decrease and ~7,5 minutes longer regulated run time. I spoke to Maukka, about the possibility to make me another standard measuring lights with several CCTs using this Jet-solis.

Next: Optic improvement for E17A/E21A version. I need to bring the LED 0,7mm higher to at least level with the plastic centering piece. Not just the centering peace block the light, I also suspect the photon bounced between the LED and the optic centering piece was heating the LED, reduced the output.

- Clemence

This is amazing!

Great work! I’m looking forward to an E21A for sure, maybe even both.