Thanks all. No dis intended. This is great work, just uncertain of the current state/status. Much clearer now to me... Thanks again!!
here’s the parts list for MELD v2. remember there are two PCBs to order
mouser cart: http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=1b9f4fc109
only order the microcontroller if you have a PIC programmer, otherwise i can provide a programmed one
item reference quantity description value package notes
main board
1 u1 1 microcontroller PIC16F1825 QFN-16 programmed
2 U2-5, u13 4 N-ch MOSFET PMV22EN SOT-23
3 U7 1 buck/boost converter TPS63000
4 C1, c3, c4 3 capacitor 10uF 10V 0603
5 C2 1 capacitor 4.7uF 10V 0402
6 c5, c6 2 capacitor 0.1uF 16V 0402
7 u8 1 inductor 2.2uH 4x4mm
8 r1, r2 2 resistor 2 0805
9 r3 1 resistor 3.9 0805
10 r5 1 resistor 1 0805
11 r4 1 resistor 470 0402
12 r7 1 resistor 91k 0402
13 r8 1 resistor 30k 0402 optional, only populate if UV is high Vf
14 r9 1 resistor 15k 0402
15 d1 1 dual schottky BAT54C SOT-23
daughter board
1 u1 1 sepic converter LM3410 SOT-23-5
2 c6, c7 2 capacitor 10uF 10V 0603
3 u12, u14 2 inductor 4.7uH 4x4mm
4 r7 1 resistor 0.13 0805 set for 1.5A
5 u16 1 schottky DFLS120L-7
6 c5 1 capacitor 2.2uF 25V 0603
Can I borrow your copy of “Don’t Do This Book of Horrid Electronic Wizardry”?
I accidentally spilled some flux cleaner (Everclear 190) on my copy. Which might have been ok if I didn’t manage to set my iron down on it latter. 
tterev3 thank you for sharing with us, this project MELD V2!
I also loved your post tterev3 PIC's quickstart guide!
very useful for us users, we have trouble!
would be nice to also have programming ATMEL
I'm trying to study I2C protocol, but I did not understand very much!
it would be useful to create a coulomb meter via usb with software TI
or similar .. ;)
Oh, I was away from this thread for a while, so, do we have 8.4V input Attiny13A based driver, except zener moded nanjg105?
Just checked, boy those AA carrier are expensive…
200 ohm resistor in place of D1, zener diode spooning up against the capacitor...
Hi guys,
MELD LED boards came in, they work pretty well:
If anyone wants to use these, I recommend ordering the next version, which just pushes the wire pads out farther to give room for a reflector to sit flush:
there’s also a version with XP as the center component
Yea, a bit expensive imo. I may have posted a carrier but personally I would just make one from scratch.
Nice! What’s the host you have there?
that’s in an Olight S10
Very nice tterev3!
I’ve been interested in the small size of XQ-E. How do you like them? What wavelength luxeon are you using?
Would it be worth the time to do a version of the 20DD specific to the Roche F6? I think I found a compatible SMD version of the switch (here - schematic here). Button on the original sticks out 1mm, button on the SMD version sticks out 1mm as well... the pads for the frame would end up right out at the edge of the board.
Can you use these diodes (from the digikey cart for the BLF17DD V2) in place of these for the Tiny10?
Broken links - they have a weird system, the URL of an item in your cart only takes YOU to that item's page, everyone else gets a 404.
Hm I see, well the BLF Tiny10 calls for a BAT54, the BLF17DD V2 calls for a SOD-323.
SOD-323: Description DIODE SCHOTTKY 10V 0.57A SOD323
BAT54: Description DIODE SCHOTTKY 30V 0.2A SOD523F
Will a SOD-323 work in place of the BAT54 on the tiny10?
The pads are the same so it should fit but one might have less V drop than the other. Not sure why Matt spec’d a different one and he’s gone fishin.
Since both of these boards are supposed to be able to populate with the components from a 105c driver, I don't see why either/or shouldn't work for each board. Check the 105c and see which one of those matches, use that one.
Matt's back, just doing HoneyDo's...
The one in the list for the SRK/17DD/20DD boards has the same voltage drop as the one that comes on the Nanjg, at least close enough that the firmwares with a battery voltage display (via flashes) reads the same. That's only a 0.1v resolution though, but that's really close enough even for the low voltage detection/warning/shutdown points. 2.75v or 2.85v, it won't hurt a thing either way.
XQ-E is great for color. I probably wouldn’t use one for the main white beam, unless it was a low-output light or I needed an extremely small emitting surface. Max lumens is under 300. The luxeons are 400nm
I’ve been checking the Digikey carts for the last few days and have run across something strange. The contents change for a given link. Just now I clicked on the knucklehead link and up came the BLF XXDD cart. Ten I tried the the tiny 10 and got the same cart. When I tried the SRK cart, that came up correct but the same cart came up again for the knucklehead instead of the previous wrong cart. Then the tiny 10 cart comes up incorrect. It seems that Digikey gets fixated on one cart regardless of the link used until it somehow resets to a new cart then gets stuck on that one. If anyone else is observing this, please let me know as it would be a shame to order the wrong parts for some reason. Also, it would be wise to double check the cart against the parts listed on each Oshpark fab order. Matt does a good job of listing the parts needed for each pcb on the Oshpark order page.