Hhmm, I'll give that a shot, thanks!
An interim fix might be to mask the exposed pads with kapton, epoxy, or even fujik. Iāve used fujik to repair the dike between the led footprint pads.
Yes, attiny13 and attiny13A are pretty much the same thingā¦same firmware
the pads on the board are for grounding those particular pins, so those extra pads are direct grounds, if you solder them to the legs you have soldered that āstarā down to ground
(stars 2,3,4 because even on the Nanjg star 1 does nothing)
That appears to be a error on the 17DD since the star pad should be opposite pin 5. I checked all the other boards and pin 5 is what is grounded for star 2. Simple to scrape opposite pin 5 instead.
Edit - didnāt see the tiny red print.
Yupā¦sure nuff
Can we not say "error" when it's actually fine but just not perfect for how a particular individual intends on using it?
I'll do an overhaul of all 3 DD boards to make them as similar to each other in terms of layout and function as possible. I'll take your suggestions in regards to the 'stars' into account and will also make sure they are opposite the correct pins where possible.
- Matt
Sorry Matt. I should have said that it was a customized design for a diagonal jumper. 
Haha all good. Just get a bit tetchy when I've spent far too long staring at Eagle projects lol. That and Dale's issues with the knucklehead are concerning. I'll try do some revisions today.
- Matt
Donāt feel compelled to revise them all right away. These boards are all designed in spare time for the forum. They donāt need to be perfect right out of the gate.
So can I confirm once and for all, that the star numbering is as follows:
MCU Pin 2: Star 4
MCU Pin 3: Star 3
MCU Pin 5: Star 2
If that's the case then there was a minor error on the 17DD as the pad for star 2 was next to pin 6. Which is what everyone here was pointing out to me. My bad. Please accept my apologies.
- Matt
Iāve been using the heck out all 3 variants of these boards and love em, even when I was having to do jigsaw puzzles with the MOSFET to get extra resistors on board they worked and thatās the main thing. The Texas Poker is rocking because of the Tiny 10 board and the little FET that Scott gave me. As far as Iām concerned, all the trouble is worth it for that one right there! 
Iāve blown some non flashaholics minds with the Texas Poker recently, showing a beam of light over 100 yds away that virtually every flashlight from a few years ago would be jealous of, regardless of size. I could quit right now and be way ahead of the game. Not gonna though
Yes - that's right. Again though, the pads on the BLF boards are wired differently than a Nanjg board. My vote would be to have the pads connected to the MCU pins and not ground, like a Nanjg, but have a ground connection close by, like the Nanjg does. I'm not sure if others specifically asked you to do it the way it was - there may be a good reason, I'm not sure, just can't think of one, accept if it was easier, saved space, or made it possible to fit it all. If you gave me one of the 3 pins wired that way, I'd be happy - but I'd sure like to hear from others about it first.
Hoping RMM and comfy might comment...
This is the commented pin definitions I use in my version of the firmware:
#define STAR2_PIN PB0 // Star 2, MCU pin #5
#define STAR3_PIN PB4 // Star 3, MCU pin #3
#define STAR4_PIN PB3 // Star 4, MCU pin #2
#define PWM_PIN PB1 // PWM Output, MCU pin #6
#define VOLTAGE_PIN PB2 // Voltage monitoring input, MCU pin #7
One minor reason to have the pads connected to the outer ring is that you do not get solder on the ring when bridging, if the ring rests on an edge of the pill, a blob interferes. But that is nothing that can't filed flat in a minute, so it should not be much of a problem.
If only one star is going to be engaged, maybe 2, I guess itād be easy enough to bridge to pin 4 or 8 with a short wire. Iāve had issues enough with bridging for moon modes in the past that I seldom do. That said, I have recently (with the FET drivers) been enjoying the ridiculous low output numbers theyāre capable of in combination with the equally ridiculous high output numbers.
+1 Dale! It's pretty sic what these drivers are capable of. Whole new world... My latest e-switch driver (Werner UI, original JC code) combined with these FET boards is real nice. Now I have a strobe option - same 12.5 hz insane strobe from the luxdrv code. Been tweaking the delay time and think this is a pretty hot setup:
- quick click for + mode (std)
- long click/hold of 1/3 sec for - mode (std)
- one click to turn the light OFF, after 1.2 sec in any mode (custom)
- extra long click/hold of 3/4 sec for strobe mode (any click will return you to original mode) (custom)
So for example:
- the light is OFF - hold for 3/4 sec - strobe, click or hold turns the light OFF
- the light is in Hi mode - hold for 3/4 sec - strobe, click to go back to Hi
- the light is in moonlight mode - hold for 3/4 sec - strobe, click to go back to moonlight
For entering strobe, the long duration next mode will briefly engage (between the 1/3 to 3/4 sec times) but I don't find it much of a distraction, as long as it returns to the original mode you were in.
Not sure what thread to put this in but Iām trying to figure out different R1 and R2 values to use(bypassing the Zener for the voltage ladder) and thought Iād post how I think the existing ladder values work(based on R1 19.1k and R2 4.7k).
R1+R2= 19100+4700=23800
Current equals 4.2/23800=.18mA
At 4.2V pin 7 reads R2/(R1+R2) x 4.2= (4700/23800) x4.2 =.83V
At 3V pin 7 reads .59V
To regain low voltage sensing with the Zener mod we would need to bypass the Zener to R1, severing the trace between R1 and pin 8 and changing the resistor values so that at 6V pin 7 again sees .59V. Is this correct?
Working backwards,
Total R assuming .18mA from 8.4V is 8.4/.00018=46.7k
.59V = R2/(R1+R2) x 6V or .59/6 = R2/46700 or R2 = 4600 ohms and R1 = 42100.
At 8.4V pin 7 would see .83V.
Would this work?
I'm struggling to follow exactly what you are trying to achieve here. There is a version of the 17DD that accounts for the zener: http://oshpark.com/shared_projects/HPnAx0qF
The BLF17DD-Z is setup for the R/Zener mod, and the input to Pin 7 via the voltage divider is directly from VIN. I'm pretty sure that's what you want, no?
Just imagine if we use the ATtiny25 in lieu of the ATtiny13ā¦2K of programming spaceā¦imagine what the coders could do if they had that much more roomā¦they do amazing things with 1K!
Oh waitā¦Tom is talking about the whole different MCUā¦duh
Just looking for a new set of resistor values and the board mod necessary to regain low voltage detection in a Zener modded board for 2 cells. Itās not for any project in particular but just to increase my understanding of how that part of the board works.
Edit - looked over the BLF 17DD and yes thatās exactly what Iām talking about and now just need to make sure I can pick the correct values for 2s or 3s cells.
Ah OK. Well you're on the right track. You need to cut the connection between R1 and where the diode used to be, and bridge from VIN directly to R1. Your voltage divider maths is correct as far as I can see.