You might want to add this one to the OP. Over the past few months, I've been slowly working on an update to the original BLF SRK FET driver (design by Mattaus; development ideas from Comfychair and many others).
Helios - That Roche F6 driver also seems to apply to the Roche AS31 as well. I got an AS31 and measured it out and seems to be a perfect fit, though the color LED's are not accomodated in the housing. Also the Roche F6 you can buy today seems to be under the Convoy label, and also has no holes for viewing the color LED's.
I built up one "Convoy" F6 already with this driver and it came out great! Problems were more with the host - the SS tail just cannot stay in. Also the F6 tailcap springs are uncoated steel - impervious to solder, so very difficult to wire bypass that spring.
Please provide the BLF thread links and parts list for the OP listing as well. I'm planning on building up a few more of these driver - Great Job by you and TK on this driver!!
Thanks for the added projects Helios. I, for one, definitely appreciate the 20mm triple. A quad stencil for the larger 31-2 mm Noctogon boards would also be nice to go with all the EEX6 builds.
I like those emailsā¦ mine are coming back from fab on the 19th and the 25th, but they are 4 layer panels. Iāve noticed they sometimes have slightly different dates.
+1. Oshpark has been great to work with and even though I could get boards made slightly cheaper overseas, their customer service is top notch and they've always been very helpful. In my opinion they're a company worth supporting.
Thanks.
I banged out a XP32 noctigon stencil.
You might notice the zip file is named 3x XP 31mm but it is for the XP32 & the outline is 32mm (not that the outline matters much for stencils). Iād reuploadā¦ but then Iād also want to take new screenshots. And I already spent some time fighting with oshparkās automated design verifier. Forgot it demands bottom silkscreen, :~
plus bottom soldermask,
plus a drill. Even if youāre not using the bottom.
Still oshpark is the best, donāt get me wrong.
Thanks Tom.
I never made a thread for the Ferrero Rocher DD driver. I actually never even built one myself. Comfychair was looking for a Roche F6 DD driver & before I knew it, I started making one. Made me a little crazy in the end because of constraints I myself imposed upon the design. 0805 parts instead of 0603, two leds & mostly one sided (couldnāt ram it all into totally one sided). Didnāt mention the driver till it was nearly done.
Honestly the indicator leds donāt seem that useful to me. Since the window is/was on the back, you canāt see it while using the light. We already had LVP in firmware plus Toykeeper now made a battery check function for all lights. But the original Roche F6 had a indicator window! Didnāt want my driver to be missing something.
I think Comfy made a thread that has a parts list.
Your SS tail, Iād try a little epoxy just on one side of the SS tail. Let dry then file the epoxy till the tail fits in tightly. Spring does need to go!
If you need more than a few boards and/or your boards are largeish, try gojgo.com They are in China and Ted Chen speaks excellent english. I actually get boards from them faster than from OSHPARK using their DHL 3-day option (8 days from order to arrival). For some 4x6ā boards their prices were around 1/10th what OSHPARK would have been. You can send them Eagle .BRD files instead of Gerbers. They also have excellent prices on stainless steel solder paste stencils.
I am trying to simply shrink my lighted tailcap board down to 17mm from 20mm. I havenāt messed with Eagle in awhile and I feel like Iāve forgot everything. I was able to change the radius of my milling layer, but I need to move the pads in further. For the life of me, I canāt āselectā the pads to move them. I can move the vias and everything else without problem, just not those pads. When I created the board, I used a template for an 0805 cap to get the pad spacing right instead of drawing them freehand. Maybe that has something to do with it?
Is your top origin and bottom origin layer active? It displays a thin black āxā or āā at the center of a component. The is what you click to move it.
Also the āxā should be actually oriented as a +. When it is oriented as an x that means the part is locked in position and must be unlocked before it can be moved.